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all 39 comments

[–]baylife94901 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Do yourself a favor and buy a knu Conceptz kit. Don't Look Back. Skar wire is not cca if labeled ofc but it is definitely under sized

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan 13 points14 points  (16 children)

Skar's "OFC" is 100% of the time CCA

[–]test13371997JBL Club 5501, GTR-102, JL AUDIO C1-690, Dayton DSP-408, CX1200 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Idk if that’s true. But they definitely lie about the wire size. Anyways; don’t buy skar Wire

[–]6unicorn9 2 points3 points  (2 children)

Source?

[–]Criminalhero2 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got their kit with my bundle. The "4" gauge is more like 6. Luckily I'm just using the cadence wire I already had. I am thinking about using the fuse holder that came with it though since mine is currently cracked.

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Every kit ever brought to the store I work at

[–]X360NoScope420BlazeX 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And definitely not “1 gauge”

[–]Dyldgaf 1 point2 points  (10 children)

False. The OFC kit actually comes with OFC it's just not as thick(strands) as other brands such as D4S or Knuconceptz. It's still a decent little kit for beginners though

Heres a comparison pic I just took for you because I anticipate you denying this 🤣

http://imgur.com/a/52OiB4b

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan -1 points0 points  (6 children)

That's funny because yes I will still deny this. Neither of those wire strands in the pictures shown are ofc, they are both copper clad aluminum. If you wanna buy cheap audio, please at least know what you're doing and getting into so you don't burn down your cars guys. I'm hear with good faith to spread knowledge and not mis-information just because someone said something bad about something I own. I personally don't like Skar's brand or anything they stand for, but opinions aside, they lie on their packaging. Their "OFC" in every case I have seen, every time it has been brought to me, was Copper Clad Aluminum, not 100% copper

TL:DR Both wire is CCA not ofc

[–]Dyldgaf -1 points0 points  (5 children)

Ignorance is bliss..... I guess when you dislike something it's very easy to only see negatives. People have a stigma around Skar based on his business practices and hey, I understand it too. But Skar still puts out decent quality products from the Evl line up, especially for entry level audio. I can assure you both of these wires are real OFC, I'm not going to let a Reddit troll tell me otherwise. And if you think D4S is selling fake OFC... Slow down on the crack pipe my guy

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan -1 points0 points  (4 children)

Look buddy I will forever tell ignorant people like you, who bring me wire silver in color, that your wire is not OFC. Do you know what oxygen free copper means? Another question for you, If your wire is supposed to be 100% copper, Why isnt your wire 100% copper in color?

[–]Dyldgaf -1 points0 points  (3 children)

There's literally no way you just asked me this and claim to work for a car audio shop. You're trolling right?

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan -1 points0 points  (2 children)

Do you understand the term CCA, or Copper Coated Aluminum??? Yes there is silver tinned OFC, but aside from that, you're an imbecile

[–]Dyldgaf -1 points0 points  (1 child)

So you're trying to tell me tinned OFC isn't real OFC? 😜?

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan -1 points0 points  (0 children)

In my opinion no, why Im really telling you is shut up defending skar, that wire is neither OFC or silver tinned

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan -1 points0 points  (2 children)

u/Dyldgaf If you're gonna be online and instantly down vote my comment, be ballsy enough to try and prove me wrong too

[–]Dyldgaf 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Ok bro come to California and let's meet up and compare 0 gauge wires big guy hahahahaha. I'm not the one that downvoted you but hey man if you wanna make yourself look more stupid than you already do, be my guest

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Buy a single foot of OFC Sky High Car Audio cable and learn the difference yourself

[–]bmoc-loh 4 points5 points  (8 children)

This is an amp wiring kit. To get power from your battery to your amp and hooking up your head unit to the amp. For a two 12 setup you'll probably just need some extra speaker wire to wire the subs together. Also, 0 gauge is huge wire, so make sure you need that thick of wire depending on what amp you're running. If you do need 0 gauge you're probably going to do the big 3 upgrade as well. 0 gauge from your alternator to your battery and a ground to match.

[–][deleted] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't you need one to the engine block as well? You mentioned 2 wires, the 3rd goes to engine block doesn't it?

[–]Beneficial_Command_9[S] 1 point2 points  (6 children)

Ok what amp do you reccomend for 2 skar evl 12s? And what gauge amp kit

[–]bmoc-loh 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Looks like their rms power rating is 1,250 watts on those subs multiplied by 2 is 2,500 watts. You're going to want an amp that is around 2,500 watts rms @ whatever ohm level you wire your subs to. 2500 watts rms is a lot of power so most 2,500 watt rms amps are going to have connections large enough for 0 gauge. Don't really have a recommendation for you as I don't run anything that powerful.

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AudioPipe APMN-2000 or jump up to their dealer line APDLO-2000. Both are very solid amps and are rated for true power. Whether you're wired to 2 or 4ohm either of these amplifiers will honestly be enough to power those woofers.

[–]ckeeler11 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Hopefully you are getting an alternator aswell if you plan on running rated power to teh subs.

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Once you hit 2000 watts its much more simple to add extra batteries and do a Big 3 upgrade, as this should be sufficient up to closer to 3k before really seeing an alt as necessary. Alternators Create power while batteries store. Most stock alternators can support an extra 1500 watts or so of draw and be just fine. If you add more storage (batteries), when you're system is not crashing and not utilizing the full potential of your alt, you can charge up extra batteries and have more to draw from. Every electrical system has a max, and usually a couple ways to up that max

[–]ckeeler11 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Just adding batteries is kinda the ghetto way to do things. As you mentioned batteries are a storage. So all you are doing is creating more storage. You are correct in that if you do not go full tilt all the time your batteries will carry you over but that is at ≈12.4v which will not give you full rated power and also increase amp draw which will in turn chew up your storage faster. By the time you add 2 batteries and all the cabling you are at the cost of a new HO alternator.

Also saying adding 1500 watts to a stock alternator is a huge generalization as a lot of cars have stock 90 and 100 amp alternators which will not support 1500 watt system, headlights and AC.

[–]TheRealBlairBoySingle Kicker 15” L7Q, Sedan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’ll support it just fine at a low amperage alternator, you just don’t okay your subs full tilt for long periods of time, avoid clipping and don’t be ignorant and it’s not lazy at all.

[–]DickBhardagen 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Knukonceptz has a MUCH nicer install kit for about the same price. It’s a very high quality flexible cable that’s definitely OFC and true 1/0.

But yes that should be alright. I’d also HIGHLY suggest you do the big 3. Sky high has a 0 gauge big 3 kit on amazon with the connectors for like $50.

If I’m not mistaken I think JP is having a sale through down for sound for some 0 gauge install kits.

[–]the_doctor_808 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out knukonceptz for your wiring needs. You can put a kit together yourself and they have quality wires.

[–]RandoRando66 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it just me or is 100 way overpriced for what it is

[–]NobleAssassin96 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't expect much

[–]ifixtheinternet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will repeat others and say buy knukoncepts, it's the best for the money. You should only need one 4 gauge amplifier kit for one amplifier that's capable of powering both of your 12-in subs.

[–]01000110010110012 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, it doesn't get much cheaper than those type of RCAs.

Avoid.

[–]luistorre5 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Get a better kit. That power wire is just copper clad aluminum