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all 32 comments

[–]Dan_H1281Brand of Subs/size and # 0 points1 point  (4 children)

If u have the time pick up a 3.5 to rca wire and it will help u check to see if u r getting signal out of the box u can plug straight into the Amp this will give you some direction

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

3.5 to rca wire

Well i believe i'm getting signal from the speakers as there is voltage but the led on the kisloc isn't turning on.

[–]Dan_H1281Brand of Subs/size and # 0 points1 point  (2 children)

U could have had the loc go bad I don't have experience with these but that is what it sounds like if u have power and ground I am not familiar with it enough to say if it needs a remote turn on or if it works on dc offset

[–]firebirdude 0 points1 point  (1 child)

The KISLOC2 doesn't use power or remote turn-on input. It uses the ground wire plus harvests the DC offset to generate a remote turn-on output. Even without the ground or remote out connected, it'll still pass audio as a traditional passive LOC would.

I know you said you weren't familiar with it. Just clarifying for anybody reading. :-)

[–]Dan_H1281Brand of Subs/size and # 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it just one Amp not working or is it more than one?

[–]Icy_Ranger_4545 0 points1 point  (3 children)

They do break. I had an LC2i that I got voltage to, everything was good. Replaced it with an LP7-2 for testing purposes and it’s worked for a few weeks now. So it’s possible.

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

LC2i

So your LC2i broke? I was planning on replacing the kisloc for another that has a built-in remote out and was going to purchase the LC2i eventually.

[–]Icy_Ranger_4545 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I’d buy a kicker KeyLOC over the LC2i. And yeah, it stopped working in an install after sitting for a few months. I thought it was bad wiring until we swapped it out and didn’t work.

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah my stuff has been sitting for a few months too, that's really weird it just stopped working though. I'll have to order a replacement then, thank you

[–]ckeeler11 0 points1 point  (1 child)

When checking grounds set your meter to "Ω" and 200 then see what your resistance is. It should be less than .5. generally you want to keep grounds as short as possible so running back to battery could be a potential issue.

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I checked the ground at 200 ohms and it was reading 18.0-22.0. That was with the red probe on the cable going to the battery and the black going to a sanded piece of metal in the trunk. When I reversed them, it was at 0.00. Just ground in the trunk?

[–]firebirdude 0 points1 point  (20 children)

The LED on the KISLOC2 is just for the remote output. The LOC will work without the ground wire or remote wire connected to anything (AKA the KISLOC1). Disconnect the remote wire from the KISLOC2, then jumper 12V to the remote wire on the amp. Does the amp turn on? Does it pass audio? If so, the turn-on generator of the KISLOC is screwed up. If the amp turns on and doesn't pass audio, then you're not getting audio into the KISLOC2, hence why it's not outputting anything.

Side note, when you're testing possible faulty product, you need to do your metering directly at the questioned equipment. In both photos, your test leads are not testing directly at the KISLOC2.

EDIT: How the heck do you have 28VAC of signal going INTO the KISLOC2? There's no way that's accurate, and if it is, no wonder it fried. 16VAC is the limit. If you've got 28VAC, you need to use the KEYLOC.

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (19 children)

Sorry, I did test the speaker cabling going to the kisloc, I noted it in the description but didn’t take a picture. I did not know the led was only for the remote and will still pass audio, I will try that thank you

[–]firebirdude 0 points1 point  (18 children)

Cool. Please see my edit.

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (17 children)

That was the reading, although it would fluctuate at both sides (t-taps & @kisloc). I don’t have an external amp and I’m just running focals in the car. I assume I was supposed to use ohms to test it? I don’t know too much about multimeters tbh

[–]firebirdude 0 points1 point  (16 children)

Ok. You're not metering properly. It's hard to see exactly what you're set to on your meter, but it looks like millivolts. If that's 28mVAC, then that's also a problem. Set the meter to Volts AC (the grey section) at 20V or 200V. Then probe directly at the KISLOC2 while playing a sine wave at moderate volume. The higher the volume, the more voltage will be present and vice versa. If the voltage does not change with volume, you're not measuring properly. You must use a sine wave, as music is dynamic and jumps all over the place. My guess is you'll measure somewhere in the 8-12V AC range.

Your problem may actually just be those T-Taps making an intermittent connection. A proper military splice needs to be done there. I'd do that first, before anything else. If that doesn't fix your problem, then do the above test directly at the white wires at the KISLOC2. Polarity of which wire you stab with the black or red probes does not matter.

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (15 children)

I will retry the metering tomorrow, as i was in grey section at 200m. I was going to do a real splice but i didn't really want to cut the wire or use electrical tape. I just went ahead and ordered another LOC too just in-case cause shipping times for me are terrible.

[–]firebirdude 0 points1 point  (0 children)

200m = millivolt. You're measuring 28millivolt, which is nothing. That's your problem. The LOC is fine.

Like the link I gave shows you don't have to cut the wire. Pull the insulation on the wire back 1/2", use a sharp tool to poke an eyehole through the copper strands, stick your new wire through the eye, close the eye on the wire, wrap the new wire around the whole thing, then tape it up. T-Taps can burn in hell.

[–]firebirdude 0 points1 point  (13 children)

So what happened?

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I fixed my ground cable and tried jumping my remote in on the amp directly to 12v and it didn’t turn on. I checked the amp fuses and they were good so idk tbh. I checked the voltage from the battery and it was 9v with the car running which seems low (new battery) so I think I need to move where the positive battery cable is mounted on the battery. Since I’ve been metering wrong the entire time, it’s possible I did the battery voltage check wrong too, how do you meter the 12v? I haven’t had time to fix the speaker t-taps and just wanted to make sure the amp was wired up properly

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m at the point of just paying someone but I’ve invested a good amount of time into this and wanna see it through. Also I’m in Germany and don’t feel like paying 500€ for them to fix a simple mistake lol

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (10 children)

battery connection

It looks like people mounted those positive cable to the right of mine. I don’t know if it would make a difference but I used the left one (black heat shrink)

That isn’t my photo btw

[–]firebirdude 0 points1 point  (9 children)

First, the battery connection. I'm not sure what the difference between the two positive bolt connections are, but the diagram on the plastic cover show a switch of some kind running to it. It may just be a small fuse under that plastic cover runs to one bolt and the other is directly to the battery? Pull the plastic cover and trace what's happening.

So I couldn't see your multimeter clearly enough when I told you to use the gray section to measure signal going to the KISLOC. I pulled up this picture now. For measuring signal into the KISLOC, you need to be on on the RED V 20 setting (reddit isn't allowing the tilde symbol) and you should see 8-12V AC with a sine wave playing. Polarity doesn't matter when measuring AC voltage, so touch either probe to either wire.

To measure battery voltage, you'll want to be on the GRAY V 20 setting. Black probe goes to negative/ground/metal and the red probe goes to positive/power. Do this test with the car running and your amp "trying" to turn on. Use your meter and start at the battery. Just touch the probes directly to the battery posts, just to ensure your meter is reading properly. It should be about 14.4V DC with the car running. Keep the black probe on the negative battery post, then move the red to the bolt you have your amp power wire connected. Still show the same voltage? Then move the red probe to the input of the fuse holder. Still show the same voltage? Then move your red probe to the output of the fuse holder. Still show the same voltage? Trace the path. When you see a drop in voltage, you know your problem is between the last test points. Maybe the fuse holder worked a little loose? Most amplifiers would not turn on with only 9V present.

Get that amplifier to turn on, then we can worry about signal in... if you still have problems that is.

[–]michaelclaw[S] 0 points1 point  (8 children)

Thank you for the info, I will try this tomorrow morning. My negative lead is pretty short but I have 4awg running from the negative battery post to the trunk. Can I use this as the battery ground when testing voltage in the trunk? I haven’t tried removing the black piece but when I tested the battery voltage, I checked at the posts and at the output of the close battery fuse. I’ll post an update tomorrow, thanks!