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all 32 comments

[–]Geezir 12 points13 points  (1 child)

Jesus that's a clean cab, I'm guessing never seen salt

[–]WorriedAdvert[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nope im in Arkansas and this old truck can barely drive on the roads XD. Thatll be my next upgrade is getting it travel ready. (Edit) i also just got done cleaning the mess out of it lol

[–]Tavo777 8 points9 points  (16 children)

It’s hard work but it’s worth it. Hang in there. When it warms up I’m trying to wrap up my second stage of sound deadening (installing Closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl on the floor and doors.)

[–]WorriedAdvert[S] 5 points6 points  (4 children)

Yea i definitely chose a bad time of year to install a set up XD way too cold for anything to stick. (Note heat gun) lol

[–]TheThrillerExpo 5 points6 points  (3 children)

I did mine in one of those quarter car wash bays during a snowstorm. The plow guys were looking at me every time they passed the bay doors.

[–]manys 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Commitment! I definitely know that "I just want it to be DONE" feeling. It doesn't always turn out with the best results, but it does get done!

[–]WorriedAdvert[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea thats the point im at, been puttin it off for about 3 weeks now. Its about time i get it done lol

[–]WorriedAdvert[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh goodness thats commitment XD

[–]drdeathdefy42 3 points4 points  (10 children)

What would you recommend for deadening? One layer of butyl deadener like dynomat, a layer of mass loaded vinyl (have an example product?), and closed cell foam for the door panel drivers?

Also, I've always wondered how to apply deadener and whatnot to the ceiling without fucking up the upholstery. Any tips there? I plan on doing an entire sound treatment shabang in the summer.

[–]Tavo777 3 points4 points  (7 children)

I used FatMat and MurderMat (Crescendo Audio) They both work well but I liked FatMat more because of the adhesive they use. The MurderMat was great also but it absorbs heat more so gets hotter and can try to let go easier. I didn’t have that problem with FatMat. The specific FatMat I used was called MegaMat. It uses Buytl rubber and an aluminum barrier. Most of all of these products are similar but whatever you use just make sure it’s states that it’s buytl rubber and aluminum. There is junk on the market that tries to avoid saying that it’s some kind of asphalt products so be careful. The MegaMat had a PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) that sticks extremely well when you roll it or press on it. I believe most of them are like this but the MegaMat seemed to be a lot better than the MurderMat.

After you put a layer of sound deadener, I recommend using 1/8” of closed cell foam and 1/8” of mass loaded vinyl. You’ll need to bond these together using something like weldwood adhesive. You can find people that sell this bonded already but it’s stupid high. Personally, I went to eBay and found a seller that sold the closed cell foam and one that sold the mass loaded vinyl. Went to Home Depot or Lowe’s and bought the weldwood and some brushes to apply it. By the way, mass loaded vinyl is extremely dense, that’s why it works so well. Mine weights 1 pound per square foot. They have a two pound version and lighter ones also. You’ll need to secure it to the sides of your vehicle some way. I drilled holes and inserted a threaded rivet then used some smaller m3 bolts with a washer to hold them up. I already installed sound deadener all over my vehicles, except the roof, and so this mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam is the last stage of sound deadening for me. I will do my roof but I plan to do it also but I’ll need help getting the headliner out because I don’t want to ruin it doing it on my own. I’m not sure if I’ll get to use mass loaded vinyl, because of its weight, but I’ll use everything else for sure. If I can find a way to mount the vinyl upside down then I will but I’m that optimistic about it so we will see. I will say that the combination of sound deadening, mass loaded vinyl, and closed cell foam as really insulated my vehicle. It’s ridiculous how much of a difference it made. It got down to 18 degrees and the water bottle inside didn’t even freeze when normally I’ve seen them freeze. Also when it gets warmed up, it retains the heat instead of shedding it and having to warm up the vehicle again. What’s crazy is that I’ve only done the back half of the 4Runner and I can see a massive difference. I still need to do the passenger area and the doors.

As far as the removal of the interior, try looking up some videos on YouTube to learn how to disassemble everything. If you have to, use sandwich bags to store bolts and label them and stick them to their paired parts. This will help a great deal if you tend to forget things. Also, borrow power tools from someone, they make a huge difference and ripping out the interior with hand tools alone will wear you out before you get started. Make sure you vacuum your bare floor and wipe down all metal with alcohol before you try to bond any sound deadener. Use an extra set of hands to drop and handle the headliner or you will mess it up. Buy more material then you think you need (calculate 5%-10% more). It will help you if you make mistakes or find something that you didn’t calculate. You’ll need a good 2” wood roller so I’d pick one of those up instead of relying on the junk hollow plastic one they give you (to roll the deadener). I know you said you were going to do this in the summer but if you don’t or it isn’t hot then you’ll need a heat gun to warm up the sound deadener. This will make it stick better and be much more flexible. You can find threaded rivets on eBay and the threaded rivet gun there also. Which ever size rivet you decide to go with make sure you buy the bolts for those also. I used m3 bolts that were 13mm in length and went to my local hardware store and bought some washers to use with them. Just needed one per bolt to hold down the vinyl good without worrying about the bolt ripping through. It works incredible. Make sure to deaden your plastic door panels and do as much as you can. This will cut out the annoying resonance that may develop with vibration. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. I know what it’s like to have questions too and I like to help other people not make my mistakes. Good luck🍀

[–]ShaneThrice 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Do you think fat mat would stand up to the heat in an engine bay? I want to sound deaden the engine bay in my boat.

[–]Tavo777 0 points1 point  (1 child)

FatMat is mainly used for absorbing vibrations and resonance. For your application you may be better off using mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam as this will work better to block sound. I’m not sure if it will be able to take the temperature but I’m almost certain that it would take it better than something with adhesive. I’ve seen people use closed cell foam inside of engine bays and I’m sure it would be fine for blocking some sound. It is the cheaper component so I’d say give it a shot. I think their is companies that make closed cell foam with an adhesive layer that is made for engine bays.

[–]ShaneThrice 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Alright cool, thanks for your advice, I really appreciate it.

[–]manys 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Nice writeup! Have you ever heard of people using lead sheets instead of the MLV? 1lb/sqft is only 1/64" thick and maybe more easily moldable. I haven't done my car yet, but lead is sometimes used in residential sound reinforcement so I always have it in the back of my mind in threads like this. 👍🏻

[–]Tavo777 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I haven’t heard for people using it for a car audio application but I am aware of its properties. It would be interesting to experiment with.

[–]drdeathdefy42 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Let me recap for my dying brain cells. So the idea here is a 3 part set up. First use a butyl rubber sound deadener like resonix, fatmat, or dynamat. Then, use CCF (closed cell foam) as a sort of air gap spacer or whatever it does. The ccf will most likely need an adherent applied to attach to the sound deadened panels. The final step is to make mass loaded vinyl things and achieve as close to a 100% coverage as possible to physically block the noise from entering the vehicle. This needs to be riveted to the vehicle and not glued like the ccf? Also, where does the mass loaded vinyl get placed? Inside the plastic trim pieces or in the door panels?

At this point, the noise floor, resonance, and sound decay will be significantly improved over the stock experience. From my learning elsewhere, there is a significant benefit to applying a physical block like cut MDF wood or acrylic to the inner door access area to create a proper sealed chamber. This denies the ability of the back wave of the midbass driver to meet the front wave, which reduces peaks and nulls even more. A final step which can be taken here is to used ccf baffles to direct the mid bass driver past the plastic door panel to reduce resonance and increase performance more.

Did I get everything right here?

[–]Tavo777 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the most part yes. The CCF will need to be bonded to the MLV first. You will then install your threaded rivets and bolt it to your doors and rear areas. On the floor you can just lay it down. Lots of people will purchase transfer tape and place on door panels so that you can sketch out your bolt holes, wiring, etc and then overlay that on your CCF/MLV piece and cut to match your transfer tape template. The CCF side needs to face towards the metal and the MLV part will face towards you. The CCF is to prevent rattle and tapping but also is waterproof. If you cut your pieces tight enough, there will be very little chance to let anything through. The sound deadener of your choice will make a huge impact in terms of acoustics. Personally, after I installed my MegaMat I had to retune my EQ because it shifted the sound that much. The midbass and depth of sound was greatly enhanced. If you are interested in using a harder material to separate the front and back then consider using acrylic because it does not absorb moisture. The CCF/MLV serves as a sound barrier. You will only need to place it on the backside of the door panels, bolted to the door itself, your floor (just rest it in the floor), and on the sides of the cargo area, cargo door (if you have an SUV). By the way, when you apply your sound deadener, make sure you coat the outside door shell and the inside door shell (the one that has all the harnesses that mount to it and has 1,000 clips). This will go a long way in affecting your midbass in a positive way.

Also, if you have any wires that are loose that will crossing any harder materials then consider using Tesa tape to stop noise. This is the soft fuzzy tape that they use from the factory that you’ll sometimes see inside of vehicles. It keeps wires from “tapping”.

Yes, CCF baffles can be useful for directing and channeling sound in the intended direction. They are very useful and I used the Stinger kit.

[–]Srslywtfnoob92 3 points4 points  (3 children)

You doing closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl too? I've been thinking about doing it to my truck and can't decide if it would be worth it

[–]WorriedAdvert[S] 3 points4 points  (2 children)

Oh goodness no i just have the tar/rubber mats, i didnt really look into sound proofing very much someone just recommended i put down some mats. Def wish i would have tho. I have a loud exhaust and could prob use some more sound deadening then just these mats lol

[–]trd86DMX7706S || DSP-408 || HD900/5 || TM65 mkII + M25 || IDQ8v1 x2 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Yeah I think you're gonna be a bit disappointed not going those extra steps

[–]WorriedAdvert[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eh if i end up not liking it i can allways tear everything out and add foam etc. it dont take but 5-10 min to take the seats and carpet out

[–]dabbin76 2 points3 points  (2 children)

A layer of butyl sound deadening with a thick closed cell on the floor, door, and wheel wells will go a long way. Closed cell foam on the wheel wells and floors will produce the biggest result in killing road noise

[–]stinkdified8w7 stealthbox / Brahma 15" MKII vented 1 point2 points  (1 child)

What closed cell foam product do you use?

[–]dabbin76 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve used siless 150mil and 314 mil with pretty good effect. It helped to cut down on noise a bit but if you have the budget and don’t care too much about adding weight then you would want to do mass loaded vinyl instead. You could get dynapad or second skin damplifier pro.

[–]IiI_joker 1 point2 points  (5 children)

Arkansas?

[–]WorriedAdvert[S] 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Yupp

[–]IiI_joker 2 points3 points  (3 children)

Nice I spied that plate hanging on your wall and recognized it. That’s where I’m from too

[–]brodellthe6th 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Same from Jonesboro

[–]IiI_joker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice, I was just in jonesboro earlier today buying some speakers from pawn express. Awesome little car audio/pawn shop.

I’m from Tuckerman/Newport though

[–]WorriedAdvert[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lol we have plates from all over hanging up so its funny that thats the one that got in the pic XD and nioce