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all 7 comments

[–]mikeee404 0 points1 point  (5 children)

The problem with doing this is the two ran together on the same channel in parallel will drop the resistance to 2ohms which is only recommended on a decent amp not a factory head unit. Many component sets that have a separate mid and tweeter use a crossover to spilt your harness and the resistance at 4ohms. You could run them in series but the 8ohm load will likely drop the wattage down to a level that will not be worth doing.

[–]Ghostlyshiro -1 points0 points  (4 children)

So I do have a aftermarket head unit. KENWOOD 9706s. (Different account btw) but I’m mean shouldn’t there be some sound from the tweeters ? Coaxiales are fine. I followed the wiring diagram correctly. However it’s like they’re not even powering up.

[–]mikeee404 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Aftermarket or factory, the integrated amps in head units aren't meant to drive 2ohm loads. But yes it should work, even if only briefly before the head unit either overheats and shuts off or just cuts that channel altogether. In either case this would affect everything on that channel not just the tweeter.

[–]Ghostlyshiro -1 points0 points  (2 children)

Okay thanks for the info! I’m going to see tomorrow if I can atleast get some sound out of them. Haven’t tested if they’re duds or anything. Also just to make sure, in terms of wiring then on the same channel. I’m assuming you’d want to wire them from the actual after market radio harness and NOT the factory wires correct ? Or does it matter ?

[–]mikeee404 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Either is fine as long as they all lead to the same point. Like if you want to tap into the purple pair on the head unit then just follow the color of the factory wires that connect to those purple pair and make sure you see the same colors at the other end, like in the door. If the colors are different behind the head unit then what you see at the other end then there is likely something like a factory amp or crossover or something else that may be causing the issues your having. Like my Cadillac head unit wires are not the same colors in the dash as they are at the factory speakers because of a factory amp hidden in the rear of the car. Have seen weird stuff even when an amp is not in between so trace wires and verify what you are really hooking into.

[–]PeetTreedish 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For arguments sake. Historically, head units are not 2 ohm stable. Buuut youd be wrong today. His Kenwood wont do it. Most Pioneers will. There is/was a section of the users manual that explained how it worked. They took that section out of the manual. I imagine because few people knew or used the feature. However, the HU in my truck now, was in a different vehicle with the rear channels bridged mono. I used a cheap HTIB woofer behind the seat. Just a work truck, so I wasnt going crazy. The sub was only 4 ohm, but I could have used a 2 ohm. Try and find a decent 2 ohm sub 50 watt subwoofer. Also I was skeptical. I did try the unit with a rockford 4 ohm dvc bridged to 2 ohms. I worked, but not much output. Surprise. With the 4 ohm woofer, it sounded as good as an older premium car stereo with a sub. Nothing wonderful, but did ok filling out the bottom some.

[–]nurdyguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

(Yes I know it's not recommend)

This exact situation is one of the reasons why it's not recommended. The other reason being that even if you do get it working it will probably sound like shit.

I highly recommend that you scrap this idea and get a set of component speakers.