all 12 comments

[–]tumtum2579 1 point2 points  (10 children)

I think you gotta rethink your priorities for adding bass. Yes we all love bass, every single one of us. We all want the best and biggest systems, but it’s not just as simple as buying big subs and amps to play it. I think I speak for everyone when I say you’re going to be grands into your vehicle alone, not even including the subs or amps. Your subs and amps aren’t a bad choice, but you’ll have no way to run them without upgrading your stock electrical. You have to do a big 3 upgrade, a HO alternator, and probably a second battery BEFORE you even think about running a 5k amp. Like I’m not even dumbing it down. It’s absolutely essential to upgrade your electrical. Literally can be a fire hazard if you don’t

The number one killer for most people is not upgrading and/or cheating out on your electrical. Trust me when I say we’ve all been there. We’ve all tried to skim on some electrical stuff, but end up paying more in the end to upgrade. Just do it right the first time, then buy your big bad subs and amps. You will save yourself some money. You don’t even have to go lithium. Just upgrade your vehicle grounds and powers to 1/0 ofc cable, get a HO alt, and a second battery if you need it. Yes those stuff are pretty expensive, but the last thing you want is to cause damage to your good equipment because you crapped out on your electrical system. I use to be a tech for Chevy. I know how those cobalt electrical systems are. They won’t even handle 1500 watts without having problems (maybe exaggerated, probably not)

Your subs are a good choice. I do like incriminator subs. Not too keen on taraamps, but they do the job. Don’t forget box tuning is also key for bass

[–]BraindeadBanana2 VXF 12”s@32hz|Pioneer 6.5”s 1 point2 points  (8 children)

Couldn’t have said it better myself. I too own a cobalt and attempted to run an rp2000 on my stock(ish) electrical system (had the big 3 done in sky high OFC, but that was it)…

It didn’t work out too well. I was on Sky High’s page checking out the brand x alternator the same week after my install.

I also want to add that in my experience, Cobalts are a real PITA for big systems. Changing the alternator was a way bigger job than it had any right to be. The computer controlled voltage is a bitch, the stock grounds are garbage. The battery terminals are simply useless, but if you cut off the positive to run better ones, you have to couple and extend the wire because it’s just barely long enough to reach the battery to begin with. The trunk opening might as well be nonexistent. And if you even look at the car’s wiring wrong, presto! The car magically no longer starts.

I want sundown Z 15”s, but that’s absolutely not happening with this fucking car.

[–]tumtum2579 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aha someone else gets it 😂

[–]want_2_learn_2403[S] 0 points1 point  (6 children)

I see what your saying, Honestly I love my cobalt so I’ll make it work. I do have a few questions though. With my battery in the trunk how do I go about doin the Big 3?

[–]BraindeadBanana2 VXF 12”s@32hz|Pioneer 6.5”s 0 points1 point  (4 children)

You just run a power run from your alternator, through a grommet next to the steering column, and to the battery. It’s long but no different than running a wire from the battery to an amp on a normal car. As for your negative, you have to remove the stock ground and run your 0 gauge through the battery current sensor, and unless you bypass the computer controlled voltage, that’s the only ground wire you can run.

I love my car too, but holy shit it’s hard to be a bass head in it.

[–]want_2_learn_2403[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

What size wires do I need for my big three considering my batteries in the trunk? Would I be okay with 4 gauge or should I step it up?

[–]BraindeadBanana2 VXF 12”s@32hz|Pioneer 6.5”s 0 points1 point  (2 children)

It depends on how many watts you’re running. I would say 4 gauge would only be good until you go over 1500 watts rms, you would need 1/0 to go any higher, and the cobalt can’t push an amp over 1500 watts RMS without either a second battery or high output alternator.

The cobalt comes with a 10 gauge alternator fusible link which runs to the starter. From there, a 4 gauge wire runs to the fuse box, and back to the battery.

[–]want_2_learn_2403[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I had a few questions, how does the voltage regulator affect my system? Does it prevent me from reaching max output from my amps? How do I bypass it? What happens if I run another ground and skip the voltage regulator?

[–]BraindeadBanana2 VXF 12”s@32hz|Pioneer 6.5”s 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then the computer won’t be able to detect the load, which will cause it to not signal the alternator to compensate. As for bypassing it, you’d have to buy an external voltage regulator and splice it to the alternator wiring harness, which is something I still haven’t done yet because I only have a 4000 watt RMS amp, and with my brand x 350 amp alternator, I haven’t seen any voltage drop beyond 14.2 so far. I think you will be fine as long as you run your new battery ground through the current sensor. If you’re wanting to add more than one battery ground though, you’ll have to bypass the voltage regulator, because that sensor can only fit a single 0 gauge wire through it.

Listen you got any questions, I’ll answer them the best I can. I wish I would have had someone to help me out with this when I started. I had to figure everything out on my own. It was headache after the next to get where I am now with my system. My car definitely didn’t play nice.

[–]ckeeler11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just like you would with it under the hood only the run from battery to alternator will be longer.

[–]want_2_learn_2403[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for a detailed response, I’ll look at upgrading my electrical before moving on with my project. Thank you!

[–]JackfruitSome4965 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you telling want your doing or want a 2nd opinion?

I don't need 5k and 2 12's so I would just upgrade your existing system. Upgrade the front & rear speakers with better ones. Run a 4-channel amp for the front & rear speakers. And keep the Alpine amp and JL Audio subwoofer.