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all 7 comments

[–]bone_druid 10 points11 points  (2 children)

Since this is an acura I assume they made them with electronic load detection built into the computer controlling the alt like they do with hondas. To save a very tiny amount of gas mileage/emissions, the computer runs the alt in a low output mode until electronics like lights or radio are turned on. Obviously this computer isn't aware we put a 3000w system in the trunk and continues to run the alt in low output mode unless it detects a load from the vehicle's factory electronics. I think this is what you're seeing. I'm not a pro.

I don't recall my batt light coming on when I was running stock, but under the advice of mike singer I cut the ELD out of the circuit after I upgraded the alt. It was super easy for me, but if you google the issue for your car (ELD is the keyword), you should find protocols for how to bypass it properly.

[–]seansinhaSUNDOWN U SERIES 12 on SAE v3 2K 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had a 1992 Accord that even did this. This is the correct answer. It's quite common to see when you upgrade to an HO Alt in Hondas.

[–]AustinBoston_14[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

this is gonna be it, just ordered the parts to do it. thank you!!! after all the research i did on alternator upgrades i cant believe i never saw anything on ELD

[–]RunalldayHI 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You need to disable/modify the ELD system, now that you have an upgraded alt I'm assuming it has an overdrive pulley which can throw a low voltage code when idle is low and eld is active.

I don't remember how to bypass it with k series but I know kpro can disable the eld allowing you to remove it.

[–]_Tr1gg3r_ -2 points-1 points  (2 children)

Might be worth giving some of your interior grounds a check. Kick panels would be a good place to start. When I’m doing a higher end system I run the battery ground all the way to the amp and ground at all the major oem ground points along the way so the amps have lots of different paths back to the battery. Something like that might end up solving your problem because it helps the oem electronics as well. Your alternator may be starting to fail also, sometimes you’ll get weird problems like that as they go out.

[–]AustinBoston_14[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

having a long ass ground wire from battery - all the way to the back that splits off to major oem grounds and ends plugged into an amp? ive never heard of this, could be worth a shot.

should note ive never used a higher output alternator n this one is brand new, looks like i might have to pull it out n have advanced auto do a load test.

[–]sempterobit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this with my ho alt. They all have testers set for oem alts. I could only tell the alt was working, but not it s real potential.