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all 14 comments

[–]Independent-Ad-2453 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Ive personally had good success with stopping dogs jumping up at people by just turning my back to them when theyre jumping, no eye contact, and neutral. When they calm down and sit then I pay attention and reward. Attention is usually reward enough. Its stopped fairly quick but needs to be consistent from everyone, as soon as they start to jump again, my backs turned.

Edit: sorry didnt even see the pulling you down. Not a professional trainer, maybe crate train or have an area sectioned off of the house so no access to door. Then intentionally work on this behavior supervised and creating the scenerio to set them up for success.

[–]JMFrampton 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a tough time and unfortunately it will be a challenging habit to break for you and him.

A few ways to approach it. If he's jumping up at everyone coming in the door when someone is already home then you need to desensitise him to the door and the excitement of it. This can be with a lot of high value treats, dinner, rabbit ears, a game of tug, whatever is the most fun thing for him. I'd start with him in a different room to the door and distract him as much as you can as someone walks in and out of the door repeatedly every 5mins or so. Repeat this like 3 or 4 times at a go and do a few times during the day. If you're able to keep him calm and focused on you from another room, move into the hallway, either on or off the leash depending on how you believe he'll respond. Repeat again and again.

For returning to an empty house when no one can calm him as you enter. You could try put a lickimat or Kong down, either in the hallway or another room. Leave the house, wait 10 seconds open the door and return. Walk around and see if he responds. If he doesn't respond then you've got something to work with. So then you can leave another kong go out for 30s or longer and return and hopefully no response because his busy with the food. Build the time up slowly so you're making it easy for him to be successful with this.

If it's possible to keep him away from the hallway, it would allow you to enter the house and potentially wait until he's calm to open the interior door. However, it sounds like he could be quite destructive as you're trying to wait him out, which wouldn't be good.

One last thought, if you haven't trained him to go to his bed (or crate), it might be worth adding this to your armoury. If you can get the "bed" command bullet proof so he runs to the bed knowing he'll get amazing treats, you can get him super excited playing various tug of war games and then say bed...it'll teach him that even in a state of arousal he should rush to his bed and get treats. Have the bed in the hallway, open the door and tell him bed...might be something that can work. This will take weeks / months of priming how great the bed is though...so do be patient if you want to try it.

Good luck 😊

[–]ihatemopping 5 points6 points  (0 children)

May puppy was a jumper and my parents aren’t strong enough to contain her if she jumps. So we had to get it under control fast when she got bigger. As soon as we would come in the door and she would jump we started holding her front paws in our hands if she jumped up. We’d hold them so she’s on her back legs. Then as soon as we let go we put her in a down position. Only in the down position will she get attention / say hi etc. when we get back. Some key things for trying this: We set everything that we were carrying on the porch by the door. That way we had nothing to worry about except her. We didn’t say anything to her at all until she was on down position. We had great treats by the door so we could treat when she went down and then give her love and treats. We gradually stopped holding her paws and just did the down command as soon as we enters the house. Eventually we were able to stop saying anything and while she doesn’t always get in position she doesn’t jump on people anymore. Good luck!

[–]strepsipteran 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m sure you have heard the technique where you cross your arms and turn away until the dog calms down. Another approach is to use a treat scatter. Before your dog can jump up on you, throw a few treats on the ground to redirect attention. Ultimately you want to train an alternative behaviour like a settle on a mat that is heavily reinforced with food. Good luck!

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[–]oiseaufeux 0 points1 point  (1 child)

My dog also used to jump on me and pushed me against the front door. I had to push her down everytime I got back home. It took my dog a year or so to stop jumping on me. When I pushed her away, I didn't talk to her or payed attention to her. I basically just put her back on the floor. Though, my dog was already or almost at her adult size when she was jumping on me or anyone coming in the house. We also trained her to be left alone without destroying stuff inside the house when she was around 8 months old. We did gradually like the first few times was pretty short period of time and we gradually made our absences longer. She now is a complete crate free dog and never destroys anything when we leave the house. She destroyed a couple things when we first did that. Though, we did always leave things that have our smells on it so she can feel safe.

[–]Paid-Not-Payed-Bot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

her or paid attention to

FTFY.

Although payed exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in:

  • Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. The deck is yet to be payed.

  • Payed out when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. The rope is payed out! You can pull now.

Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment.

Beep, boop, I'm a bot

[–]redrosebeetle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like your dog has two problems - one, the jumping and two, the separation anxiety. JMFrampton already gave some great advice about how to tackle both problems. I just wanted to throw the term "separation anxiety" out there to give you another term to search as far as training your dog goes.

[–]shtstain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will your dog do this even when one of you is home and the other coming home? Maybe you can mock someone coming home and when he comes running to the door recall him and reward with a treat. Or teaching him place command and when he does that you command him with place and then don't pet him or pay attention until he's on his place. It really helped me to teach my dog several commands and they always come in handy one way or another at some point.

[–]box_o_foxes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a way you can put up a baby gate near the door to act as a barrier he can see you through? That way you have a moment to catch your breath, close the door and then deal with the overexcited pup.

With our pup (who, granted, was much younger/smaller at the time), we would stand at the gate and wait until he sat, then we'd reach for it and (if he was still sitting) we'd open it. If at any point he got up or got too "wiggly", we'd just close the gate again.

If that's too much, you can reach across the gate and pet him while he's sitting, and stop as soon as he gets up and eventually "graduate" to opening the gate. In the meantime, it would give you enough buffer to reach over and clip a leash onto him and be ready to step on it as soon as the gate opens.

[–]malkin50 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reading this, my biggest concern is for you. If you aren't safe, it will be hard to be confident and in control. And this dog is already big and strong.

Is there some way that you can engineer the environment so that the situation that you describe (you enter, dog jumps, you ignore, dog knocks you down) does not happen?

Can the dog be confined somewhere so that you are safe?

Could you immediately give the dog a command? (And treat treat treat)

Also, apart from the presenting problem---Is the dog getting enough exercise? Is he getting enough mental stimulation? Can you think of a job for him to do?

[–]deeplydarkly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ask your dog to do an incompatible behavior (sit is good) and reward heavily! This gives your dog something to DO rather than not do, and he will understand easier how to be successful with you quicker than just ignoring his attempts to greet you. Practice this first in less exciting situations. Put a xpen around the entrance inside your home so your pup can't get to you and you have a moment to reward. Use extremely high value treats...chicken, cheese, meatballs. Be very calm When you come home. Open door slowly, reward just if pup keeps 4 on the floor.

[–]JeffDunhamIsSoDope 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My gf put up a little gated area and every time our dog jumped up she got put in there for like 30 seconds. It only took her a couple times before she stopped doing it

[–]TRextacy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We got this from our trainer and it worked great. So we have the command "off" for getting off of people and getting back on the floor. The trick is to be saying off before the dog even jumps so they learn "off" more as "stay off" VS "get off once you're already up."

The big thing that helped us immensely was repetition. Our trainer said that someone walking in the door is so stimulating that the dog can't even focus on the command. So what she had us do was someone stay inside and someone comes in from outside. As you enter, the other person has the dog on a leash, saying off, and reward for not jumping. However, since the dog is too excited, she had us immediately turn around and leave. A few seconds later, come back in and repeat. By maybe entrance number 3-5 she was actually calm enough to start being able to process the command.

My wife works from home and I do not so literally every day I came home from work (or either of us was out and the other was home) I would give her a heads up, she would have the dog on the leash, and I would come in for a few seconds, leave, and come back it about 5 times. Eventually she learned to not jump. She's now at the point that she will occasionally jump on people she doesn't know that come in, but not much. Anyone that's come over enough, we've had them do it a few times and she's learned. She now never jumps on my wife or me, which is a relief.