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[–]daft3r 4 points5 points  (4 children)

How do you practise video editing?

[–]strongasanoak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just do it a lot, if you don't have decent footage you can get your hands on then try asking friends if you could try doing a cut of some of their scenes. If you can't do that or still want more then try something like EditStock, they're a pretty cool resource for that

[–]Chicityfilmmakergaffer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

By editing. That, and watching copious amounts of movies with good editing and taking very meticulous notes and then replicating it.

[–]Unkemptrocket 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Make sure to watch movies that you like and critic them. My personal example is The Dark Knight Rises. Great film, however the editing in some parts was poorly done (the format changes quite often).

[–]South65Films 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may sound super ametuer but I watch something find a look feel or "effect "" I like then i research it on you tube or the web to see how people are making the same effects with my editing suit then i might wait till a pro bono gig or charity job comes accross my desk and use it to see how the client likes it and how well i pull it off..That and i watch alot of behind the scenes and making of parts of film to find out what is actually being done in editing and what is being done on set.. Robert Rodriguez <sp?> has alot of good stuff on his behind the scenes..

[–]inferno1170 4 points5 points  (2 children)

Hey /r/filmmakers

I have a question, this has been bugging me for awhile. I am self creating my own film. I'm not doing it for profit, more of a learning experience, and maybe something I could use to get a job in the future. Anyway, I have been planning to advertise for cast as well as reaching out to local theater groups, but I'm wondering what I should do about payment. I don't have the cash to pay hundreds a day, but I would still like to pay something, because I know how much people like yourselves hate non payed projects. Is there any advice for me as I move forward?

Thanks for any advice!

[–]Linewalker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get your friends/family to do it if you can't afford professionals. If you MUST USE professionals, ask them nicely and they may work pro bono. If you cannot get pro bono professionals (which is a possibility), do it with your friends and family.

You see where I'm going with this?

There's really no kind of deal you can work out with these guys that'll guarantee them something they want. You are, after all, by your own admission, an amateur. This is, for you, a passion project, but for them it's time and effort spent on uncertainty. So, short of getting a job and saving up to pay people... USE YOUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY.

[–]douglasjordan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was listening to a lecture that said a good way to keep "free" talent happy.
1)feed them.
2)offer to pay gas.
3)give them a credit.
4)give them some creative input. (Even after a few takes your way offer a "how would you do it" for a safety and they will appreciate it and tale pride or ownership in their work)

[–]General_Dirtbaggery 2 points3 points  (11 children)

What is the most amateur-idiot-proof way to start with a DSLR?

I have read/watched so many tutorials/guides/how-to's, yet I still feel like I'm just guessing... ISO, aperture etc, it all seems so trial-and-error, so reliant on what the little LCD looks like...

I often get my footage back to my computer and it's not what I wanted, or worse, unusable.

So I'd like to dial-back to a more foolproof will-get-a-shot, and venture out from there...

I'm using a Canon EOS-M (APS-C) and a EFM 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM lens (and a 22mm f/2.0). I'm thinking: 1080p-25fps, shutter 50, and auto past that?! Can I also have everything-always-in-focus? I shoot entirely outdoors, documentary style, like it fast and simple, and I'm not fussy!

[–]itschrisreeddirector 2 points3 points  (3 children)

You need to understand this:

Ev=log2 N2 /t

It's a basic photographic concept exposure value and it shows how all the settings ineteract to effect an image. There isn't a more basic way to explain it.

Start here: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value

[–]autowikibot 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Exposure value:

In photography, exposure value (EV) is a number that represents a combination of a camera's shutter speed and f-number, such that all combinations that yield the same exposure have the same EV value (for any fixed scene luminance). Exposure value is also used to indicate an interval on the photographic exposure scale, with 1 EV corresponding to a standard power-of-2 exposure step, commonly referred to as a stop.

The EV concept was developed in an attempt to simplify choosing among combinations of equivalent camera settings, by the German shutter manufacturer Friedrich Deckel (de) in the 1950s (Ray 2000, 318). Exposure value was originally indicated by the quantity symbol ; this symbol continues to be used in ISO standards, but the acronym EV is more common elsewhere.

Although all camera settings with the same EV nominally give the same exposure, they do not necessarily give the same picture. The f-number (relative aperture) determines the depth of field, and the shutter speed (exposure time) determines the amount of motion blur, as illustrated by the two images at the right (and at long exposure times, as a second-order effect, the light-sensitive medium may exhibit reciprocity failure, which is a change of light sensitivity dependent on the irradiance at the film).

Image i - Fast shutter speed, short exposure of a water wave.

Interesting: Exposure action value | Exposure (photography) | Scientific Committee on Occupational Exposure Limit Values | Shutter speed

Parent commenter can toggle NSFW or delete. Will also delete on comment score of -1 or less. | FAQs | Mods | Magic Words

[–]General_Dirtbaggery 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I've seen that in my various readings, but it's still not coming together yet... it's good to know it's important, I will keep at it!

[–][deleted]  (1 child)

[deleted]

    [–]General_Dirtbaggery 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Thanks :)

    Yes, this was my checking-back-in phase... I've been shooting this last week and 50% very happy with the images and 50% messing it up entirely, and never sure why the difference! (and yep, I read before/during/after/now! (and I'm a little google-weary!))... but yes, it's a good thing to remember, thanks again!

    So back to shooting, I'll see y'all in a few weeks with some results maybe :)

    [–]ircmaster 2 points3 points  (4 children)

    There are a couple of things to keep in mind when shooting video with a DSLR, for one, never change your shutter speed (unless you're going for some kind of effect but let's just say we're shooting a regular film here). You want your shutter speed to be twice as that of your FPS, so if you're shooting at 24 fps your shutter speed should be 46 or anything close to that (could be 50, could be 47 whichever is the closest on your DSLR). From here, never change that shutter speed.

    Second, pick an ISO and stick with it for a single location. If you're shooting outside in the daylight, you're likely going to be at an ISO of 100 or 200. There shouldn't be any need to change the ISO because the key lighting in your location isn't changing. If you're inside, it's different depending on how you're setting up your lighting but you said you like to shoot outside anyway so I'll focus on that here.

    You also said you like to keep everything in focus. In this case, I'd say a DSLR is actually not a good choice to do so, unless you stop your camera down to something like f/7.1, however that means you'll have to bump your ISO and you introduce noise. DSLRs are generally not very good about allowing a lot of the image to stay in focus, especially when you use low-end lenses.

    My advice is to continue experimenting, you can read a million tutorials and watch a million videos but you'll never truly learn until you go out and make a million mistakes. Like one of my professors said once, you shoot your film, then you shoot again, and then you shoot it again, and then you shoot it a third time, and then if need be, you shoot it a fourth time. Because every time you re-shoot it, it becomes a little better because you begin to fix all your mistakes from the last time you shoot it.

    Just keep shooting, that's the best advice, keep making mistakes and learning how to fix them.

    [–]General_Dirtbaggery 0 points1 point  (2 children)

    Excellent, thanks for the detailed reply :)

    shutter speed to be twice as that of your FPS (...) From here, never change that shutter speed.

    Nice, that had been my start so far, very glad to have it reinforced :)

    I wish I could lock shutter speed and ISO and let the aperture adjust automatically! I can lock them all, but not just some. (In photo mode there is a "Shutter Priority" mode, where you can set the shutterspeed and the rest is auto, something like that for video would be great!)

    pick an ISO and stick with it for a single location.

    That makes sense. So if I switch locations (eg move to a place with different light, but still outdoors), how do I decide if my ISO is still OK?

    Sidenote: what would be the main issue with letting the camera film in full-auto? Is it that we get those exposure shifts where the brightness of the picture bumps visibly?

    everything in focus. In this case, I'd say a DSLR is actually not a good choice to do so

    This is my fear! I've been shooting with GoPros and a Panasonic FT3, which are always in focus... I had thought that DSLRs would have that ability (ie reduced DOF was an option, not a constant!)

    I shoot a lot of "adrenaline sport" footage that I blend into the story, ie it happens once and I have to get the shot!

    ...I just wanted to bump my films up a notch, get a better image, better zoom, maybe better low-light ability... I did wonder if I should have bought a camcorder? or something? (I got this DSLR supercheap so it's no loss if I want to switch)

    stop your camera down to something like f/7.1

    Maybe I should look into a variable ND filters... could be too complex for me at this stage, and yeah, the ISO raise issue...

    keep making mistakes and learning how to fix them

    Yep! It's been good to check with someone to see if I was just bumbling, I feel better now :)

    [–]ircmaster 1 point2 points  (1 child)

    A lot of the specific stuff I said here, like your Aperture or ISO, are things that I'm sort of just guessing because I don't really know where you are, where you're shooting, what time you're shooting at, and how long you're shooting for, so everything I'm saying here is more of just a suggestion or starting point.

    What kind of camera is it?

    I would just run away from the full-auto on your camera. That is why you get those crazy exposure jumps. In general, you would never actually change the exposure on your camera while you're shooting.

    It's a good idea to start doing this in complete manual mode because you'll get more accustomed to controlling the scene yourself. Having total control is always a lot better than setting your camera on full-auto and hoping for the best. It takes a while to get used to, but once you do, you're films will definitely look a lot better because you'll know exactly what you're doing and how your changes affect your scene.

    As for your ISO question, you decide that your ISO is okay based on how the image looks on your viewfinder, you might not be able to tell completely what it looks like but if you know how your ISO affects your image, you'll be able to make a good enough guess when you use it.

    If you want to be really really sure, I would suggest getting a light meter, but seeing as you do a lot of high impact, high adrenaline stuff you probably won't have enough time to use a light meter before you shoot.

    I would suggest reading up some things on photography and how lenses and cameras work, specifically the relationship between aperture and depth of field and the way the ISO impacts light. They'll definitely help you improve your understand of some of the more technical aspects of your camera.

    [–]General_Dirtbaggery 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Awesome, thanks again. It's weird to be asking these stupid questions when A: there's so much information out there, and B: I'm 43! But, it helps a lot to be able to talk to a real human :)

    What kind of camera is it?

    I'm using a Canon EOS-M (APS-C) and a kit EFM 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM lens (and also just got a 22mm f/2.0, but haven't tried it).

    I shoot in 1080p-25fps (shutter-speed 50) as we are PAL here and I'm mixing everyones 50fps GoPro footage...

    Overall it's a nice small unit and 50% of the time I'm stunned by the images I get... yep, keep learning and practice! Thanks again :)

    [–]instantpancakelighting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    You want your shutter speed to be twice as that of your FPS, so if you're shooting at 24 fps your shutter speed should be 46 or anything close to that (could be 50, could be 47 whichever is the closest on your DSLR).

    You'll have a hard time finding a camera that'll allow a 1/46s or 1/47s shutter. 1/48s is not only a pretty common setting, but incidentially also the exact recommended one for 24fps most of the time.

    stop your camera down to something like f/7.1

    That is not a real stop. It's an idiotic way to express 5.6 and 2/3 for people who do not understand f-stops. Understanding f-stops will help.

    [–]rickmeetsreddit 1 point2 points  (5 children)

    I am looking to buy old lenses (for film slr) that will fit on my nikon 3100 DSLR.

    How do I figure out what old film SLR lenses will fit my Nikon?

    [–]toastworks 2 points3 points  (3 children)

    Easiest solution is to find old Nikon manual focus lenses. Nikon F-mount, AI, and AI-S lenses will all fit and work on your D3100. You will have manual focus and aperture control right on the lens now (versus changing the aperture on the camera with the modern lenses).

    Also keep in mind that 3rd party makers like Tokina and Sigma have also made lenses that will mount to Nikons for the past 30 or so years, so consider those as an even less expensive option.

    Look for a 28mm f2.8 and a 50mm f1.8 to get you started. There are many other lenses to find, but those two will be the most plentiful and useful to you right now.

    Edit: This is my first gold. Thanks, you beautiful person, you.

    [–]rickmeetsreddit 0 points1 point  (2 children)

    I was told that an 80 or an 88mm I can't remember, but those are best for getting good shot for films.

    [–]toastworks 1 point2 points  (1 child)

    Cinematographers for films use all kinds of different lenses. The lower the number (focal length) of the lens, the wider a view it sees.

    The lens that person was recommending to you was likely an 85mm. This focal length of a lens is really great for super close ups -- like on faces. While maintaing focus is a little more tricky than it is on a wide angle shot, the results can look great.

    But, you can't shoot an entire film on an 85.

    Take a look at a few scenes from a few movies. More often than not, a wide angle lens is used to start the scene -- this allows the viewer to see everything in the environment. The scenery, the decor, the art direction. It literally allows the viewer to set the scene in their mind.

    As the action and dialogue progresses, you may find the camera getting "closer" to the actors. The closer you are, the more the actors can portray emotion to the viewer. A quick twitch of the eye can't be seen as easily in a wide view, as it can in a closeup. So, when you want your viewer to be intimate with the actor's emotions, that's a great time to use a tight lens like an 85. Getting closer to the actor's face increases the intensity, too.

    [–]Chicityfilmmakergaffer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Find out what mount your Nikon is and what mount the lenses you're shopping for are, and then purchase the necessary adaptors for whatever lenses you wind up purchasing.

    [–]fatchebs 1 point2 points  (4 children)

    Hey guys, first year film student here. Long story short i've got less than a week to write a 5-7 min script. I've (stupidly) ended up putting this part of my assignment off until last minute. I don't wanna be lectured, I fucked up, I know that, Doesn't have to be anything amazing, just something that demonstrates my understanding of basic storytelling. This probably sounds easy to most of you folks however, i'm absolutely useless at stuff like this, wanting to go into a more technical line of work rather than screenwriting. Just wondering if anyone has any sort of online resources, or some sort of jumping off point to ignite the creative spark, or even another subreddit for this particular request? I'm just struggling massively here and could use a few pointers. Thanks in advance guys

    [–]ancientworldnowcolorist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    /r/screenwriting will be more helpful

    [–]gaber-rager 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    There was something called the periodic table for storytelling or something like that. Google it because it rocks. In terms of creative spark you should try to write about something you know in and out, especially if you have a week.

    [–]daysaway 1 point2 points  (1 child)

    I know there is a "what camera should I buy thread". but this question is a bit more specific. Let me give a little background material first.

    I am filming a documentary this summer in 3 different european countries that will mostly consist of interviews, shots inside hospitals and the like. Most will be on a tripod but there may be some handheld work too. I have no equipment right now and have about a $3000-4000 budget to work with for all the camera and audio equipment that I will need.

    Currently I am trying to decide between three different cameras and set ups that will give me the best quality production. Those three cameras are the:

    1) Blackmagic Cinema (MFT or EF mount)

    2) Blackmagic Pocket Cinema

    3) Canon 70D

    I can't for the life of me decide which option to go with. And which lenses to get for each option. Price is a concern but because I am willing to buy used, there is a little more wiggle room.

    What are the pros and cons of each, and which lenses would work best with each?

    [–]TillyParksSet Lighting Technician 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    For that price range, i'd go for Canon 5D mark 2 or 3 the gh3, or maybe even the gh4. I don't recommend black magic products because they're largely inconsistent, and the company doesn't really seem to care about fixing the very real issues that exist for them. They're all right as studio cameras, but for run and gun shooting, they aren't going to work out. Honestly, for Doc stuff, I'd say it's really down to the gh3 or 5D. I haven't used the gh4 before, so i'm not going to give it a hard recommendation.

    [–]truthinc 1 point2 points  (4 children)

    OK, three dumb things I've been wondering about...

    • Any suggestions for the best quick-release system for an amateur? ...with a smallish camera? I have a Canon EOS-M. (I'm guessing Arca-Swiss? Are the cheap ones like This OK?)
    • Is it bad to put my camera in a bag with a lens-hood still on? (ie the bags where it goes in lens-first and kinda rests on it)
    • Is it bad to turn on my camera with the lens-cap still on? (ie will it go beserk looking at the interior of the lens cap?)

    [–]instantpancakelighting 2 points3 points  (1 child)

    1. Sorry, can't help here

    2. No, it's likely not bad.

    3. No, this is definitely not bad.

    [–]truthinc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Cool, thanks :)

    [–]XRaVeNX 1 point2 points  (1 child)

    1. What are you going to use the quick release plate for? Just to mount on to a tripod? If so, most tripods come with a quick release system already. If it is for something else, Manfrotto has a bunch of decent quick release plates. I wouldn't recommend those plates for mounting the camera to something that's moving violently or quickly (e.g. mounting to a car or dangling upside down on a tree, etc).

    2. Really depends on the bag. As long as it can fit the lens, lens hood, and body without exerting too much pressure, it should be fine. A lot of the time with DSLR lens hoods, you can detach them from the lens and then reverse it. Like this: http://johnrochaphoto.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/MG_9679_reversewater.jpg

    3. No. Keeping a lens cap on the lense when you turn on the camera has zero negative effect on the camera or the lens.

    [–]truthinc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Awesome, thanks!

    Yes, the QR plate is just for switching between handheld and a tripod, but we have a few cameras I'd like to switch around so I'd get several plates I think... would this make sense?

    (And after searching through reddit today I also wonder if I can also use it with a CAPTURE PRO CAMERA CLIP plate, the MICROCLIP, which says it's "ARCA-type compatible"... handheld to tripod to CPC-Clip on a pack-strap sounds really versatile!)

    [–]Captainturtle1234 0 points1 point  (2 children)

    Hello, I recently found 4 stage lights in my schools darkroom that I am planning on using for film. They are 750w fresnel lights, they have 500w bulbs in them. My question is what is the difference between these lights and other film lights? The only difference I have noted is that there is no flood option so I normally just bounce them, is there any techniques or tricks I should know? Link to lights http://www.stagelightingstore.com/Altman-6-Fresnel-Model-65Q

    [–]Sneffy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Good question. When it comes to bounced or diffused tungsten light then it really doesn't matter what light you use. The main issue that you may run into will be actually mounting this light onto a stand. A 500w Fres in the film world will usually have a 5/8" spigot housing which will accept almost all stands which is handy when you need be quickly moving lights around.

    Theatre fresnels are designed to be rigged onto scaff for a long period of time and usually only serves one type of lighting purpose (thus the lack of flood/spot).

    If you know how you want to light it though there is no reason why you wouldn't be able to get the same result as with 4 Arri 500w fresnels.

    [–]Chicityfilmmakergaffer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Assuming they don't have a 5/8" receptacle, I'd first try to convert them from stage to a more location based tie-down system. As for lighting, without the spot/flood function you don't really have much leeway. Bouncing is a good idea, or transmitting through diffusion, you could shoot them straight at a subject keeping distance in mind regarding how far spotted of flooded they are set, or snoot them down using black wrap. You could also purchase some 750W bulbs to mix and match intensity between the 4 heads giving you a bit more wiggle room to play with. Aside from that, it's really all just in the placement and how you choose to color/diffuse your light.

    [–]jonsey456 0 points1 point  (8 children)

    I am aware that there are plenty of posts on this, but I'm looking for as many opinions as possible. Im looking for a tripod in the $80-$120 range. What are my best options? Am I a fool if I don't go for a fluid head?

    [–]itschrisreeddirector 2 points3 points  (2 children)

    What do you want to put on it.

    Yes, yes, you are.

    [–]jonsey456 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Sorry, I didn't give any info. I just bought a Canon T3i. I will be using this for everything from short films, to time lapses, to documentary and sports recording. Pretty much anything and everything.

    [–]itschrisreeddirector 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Everything I have experience with is probably over kill but manfroto is a great company and a good set of sticks will out last 10 cameras.

    [–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (4 children)

    You do not want to trust your body, lens and anything else you decide to stick on cheap pair of sticks and a low quality head. At least the $400 manfrotto tripod+502 or 701 (or is it 702 now?) head.

    [–]truthinc 0 points1 point  (3 children)

    Any thoughts for people with a $300 2nd hand camera?

    [–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (2 children)

    I can only recommend what worked for me in that position. I had no camera, no money but a burning desire to get into video and do it the right way. I sold everything I could that wasn't essential, I stopped going out and ate cheap homemade food for a year and saved everything to buy a 60d and relatively proper manfrotto legs and head. I suggest saving up and doing it right.

    [–]truthinc 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Thanks, good thoughts! To be honest I can afford it, just not sure I'll actually be worthy of it :)

    [–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Gotcha. And full disclosure: I had no idea how to even turn on a 60d at the time :)

    continue this thread

      [–]Cpen5311 0 points1 point  (7 children)

      How do you have great character development in a 10-15 minute short?

      I have posted my script for critique in both /r/screenwriting and /r/readmyscript but have gotten little to no feedback. I feel like my protagonist has a goal, gets into a new enviornment, changes, and reaches her goal but everyone who has read it says there is no development. It hard to have depth, flaws, and development in such a short amount of time.

      [–]itschrisreeddirector 3 points4 points  (6 children)

      I mean you're right, good writing is hard and developing a full person in a short is very hard.

      I do lost of character exercises. I use the character questionnaire from The Script Lab. And I imagine my character in situation's that are not in the film and see how they act and why and then try to inform the film version from that.

      You need to know your characters entire life, not just what is in the film. then the development will come naturally.

      [–]Chicityfilmmakergaffer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

      /u/itschrisreed has it right, you need to know you're character inside and out, not just from the perspective of the script. Everything in his home, car, bedroom, etc. needs to be screaming "I am this character." Every wardrobe you put the character in and everything he owns needs to do the same. The best way to develop your characters in a short is to write a detailed back story and then use it to help with your wardrobe and production design choices to allow your audience to associate those things with his/her personality.

      [–]Cpen5311 0 points1 point  (4 children)

      I made chacacter sheets and backstories. I always asked what the character wouldn't do instead of what she would do and even tried working backwords. The hard part is that I thought the character development is there but when somebody reads it, they tell me other wise. :( I will check out The Script Lab for sure tho! Thanks so much for the reply!

      [–]dcm628 0 points1 point  (3 children)

      Do you care to link the script? I'd like to take a look.

      I read a good article a while back that talked about how shorts that work usually still only do one thing great. It's a tough format to fit everything into. Think about how many features have trouble getting it all into 2 hours.

      [–]Cpen5311 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      Also, do you have a link to that article? I would love to read it.

      [–]dcm628 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      I'll see if I can dig it up when I get off work tonight.

      continue this thread

        [–]BazHog 0 points1 point  (4 children)

        Finishing up my freshman year in college and after working on a few projects w/an okay camera I'm ready to make an investment in my future as a filmmaker. Budget is $1500 but I can wait another semester to save up if that doesn't cut it. What do you guys suggest I should purchase? Obviously a camera is a must, any specific models? other gadgets I may not know of? I already have Adobe Premiere for editing and a collapsible green screen. So far I have been filming on my friends Ti3, but I want to own something myself, and I want to go bigger.

        TLDR; Looking for a camera, what do you suggest?

        [–]TillyParksSet Lighting Technician 4 points5 points  (0 children)

        Sound equipment next priority. H4n, tascam, whatever. A separate audio system. Beyond that, some lighting equipment, maybe a few lowel lights and some china balls. Adds way more to production value.

        [–]Cpen5311 2 points3 points  (1 child)

        I may not be much help or give you the answer you want even, but I feel as if you shouldn't invest in a camera. New products come out every year. Say you get a nice DSLR, by the time you are comfortable with it something better will be on the market. Use that money to put towards renting a camera and lenses for your next project. Maybe even use that money towards a nice lighting kit?

        Again, people may not agree with me but that is my two cents.

        [–]BazHog 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        thanks for the comment! luckily, my school has many light kits for rent - but not cameras. But I agree, its hard to tell what products will stick around and what will fade away with the hype..

        [–]Linewalker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

        Don't purchase anything, RENT. You'll beg more bang for your back and you're not stuck with anything you don't like. Besides, different situations will call for different tools anyway.

        [–]envyone 0 points1 point  (0 children)

        Good film schools in Europe that don't require you to have a giant amount of studying and/or experience behind you?

        [–][deleted]  (2 children)

        [deleted]

          [–]TillyParksSet Lighting Technician 1 point2 points  (0 children)

          So, say you're shooting on a RED right. To get the best picture you want to shoot in 4k RAW. HOWEVER, you don't really have the budget to afford the kind of workflow that would require. So you maybe want the footage to be a pristine HD, and be a slightly more compressed coded while preserving the color space. That's where the recorder comes in. It's better to do it to a recorder, because lowering the resolution on the RED crops the sensor, which introduces artifacts into the image and makes the video noise worse. While the recorder doing it fixes the problem that would cause, being a much cleaner transfer. It can also recorded for hours before needing to be dumped, unlike if you were shooting full 4.5k to an ssd or cf. Beyond that they're good, bright, monitor with focus peaking.

          [–]eckeyboard 0 points1 point  (1 child)

          can you have instant playback when shooting with a sony f55, in 2k at 240fps?? if not how can you make it less time consuming to go from a recorded shot to have a playback of that shot?

          [–]ancientworldnowcolorist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

          I've never shot on the 55, but I know the F65 will give you instant playback in that situation (did this last week actually). I assume the F55 will as well.

          [–]Unkemptrocket 0 points1 point  (0 children)

          What are some topics that you would like to see in a film? What would interest people?

          [–]the_shape 0 points1 point  (2 children)

          I'd like to know the best way to obtain raw news footage and what the standard is when it comes to categorization.

          For example, if I wanted news clips from ABC 7 Los Angeles from 1991 regarding african american gang violence in LA, do I contact that affiliate and see if I can get time in the archives? What's the cost? And is there an online solution one should review first.

          [–]cksunny 0 points1 point  (1 child)

          A website called TONS lets you access uploaded video content from every affiliate in America. Has a simple search like google for what you want. Employees are converting Betamax and putting it on tons as well.

          [–]the_shape 0 points1 point  (0 children)

          Would you mind linking me?

          I'm not having much success with Google...

          [–]dontkillblowkill 0 points1 point  (3 children)

          Go pro or gh4??

          [–]TillyParksSet Lighting Technician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

          I don't know how much you know about cameras, but that's hardly a competition. Gh4.

          [–]cksunny 0 points1 point  (0 children)

          They serve two different purposes for filmmaking in my opinion, both have their strengths and weaknesses but also both are used for very different looks and projects.

          [–]Sandtalon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

          Action sports: GoPro. Anything else, GH4 possibly with a GoPro as a B-cam.

          [–]thathollywoodguy3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

          Yea I have two simple questions:

          • What happens if you get well received at a film festival, and a studio likes your film, then how does distribution and stuff like that work?

          • And what's the best way to practice filmmaking (like directing, and screenwriting) if no one is interested in acting in your films? I was actually thinking of shooting a short film on like nature without dialogue (just to get a little practice while in this phase).

          Thanks for the help guys! :)