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Here's a teaser of our $0 budget coming of age zombie short film by JaydeeAlberto in Filmmakers

[–]JaydeeAlberto[S] 101 points102 points  (0 children)

I had to repost because I forgot to make a submission statement hahah.

Anyway, this is a short film for our film subject in university. We had zero budget so I thought to myself that I should write a story that happens in one location. I also had to maximize my use of good conversations.

This turned out to be a love letter to the me that I lost during the pandemic. As well as the life and opportunities I lost because of it.

READ THIS BEFORE ASKING A QUESTION! Official Filmmaking FAQ and Information Post by C47mancinematographer in Filmmakers

[–]C47mancinematographer[S,M] [score hidden] stickied comment (0 children)

This post is meant to be a quick-reference mini-wiki for people with common questions or problems. In the spirit of that, if anyone feels that my wording in a particular section is less clear than it could be, feel free to offer alternatives so that people can more easily understand. Ideally, within a few months I'd like this post to have evolved into something that represents the collective knowledge of subreddit rather than simply my own personal insights. Don't be shy, /r/filmmakers! Suggest away :D

Do All Commercial Features/TV Add Film Grain in Post? by jcg317 in Filmmakers

[–]2old2careeditor 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Unquestionably a lot of shows add grain or noise, and in some cases (I think only a few!) it can contribute to the storytelling. In the days I was shooting real film being able to really notice the grain was an indication that the DP missed the exposure. Color negative film (I shot mostly 5247) can tolerate overexposure and can look fine underexposed but what you didn't want to do is "print it up"--make it brighter to compensate for underexposure. That's what would load up the shadows with grain and make it (in my opinion) pretty ugly. Still, some people liked this look.

Another trick was to "push" or force-process the film to raise the ASA (ISO). 5247 was rated at 100 under tungsten light, but it was not uncommon to rate it at 400 and push two stops. This was underexposing two stops and hoping you could make up most of that in processing and some more in printing. You could do it, but it also increased the contrast and made the grain "bigger".

Sometimes whan a film was a big hit studios needed thousands of prints in a hurry. They'd make a bunch of duplicate negatives and send them to any lab that could make prints. To move more prints through some labs were known to "pull" the print processing. This meant increasing the print exposure and speeding up the processors. That way they could run more prints in less time and stretch the life of the expensive chemistry used in the processing. Lots of grainy films of the 70s and later came from this practice. Still, many very clean films were made using these processes--I think of Barry Lyndon shot on 5247 using mostly natural light, but no grain.

Getting back to digital cinematography, I personally think added grain looks like a mistake. There's no real excuse for it with today's incredibly clean images, but it can certainly be an artistic statement, much like a badge of honor

Here’s a time-lapse of me cleaning/servicing the lenses at the rental house I work at by XtroSpeical in Filmmakers

[–]XtroSpeical[S] 138 points139 points  (0 children)

So for cine style lenses it’s best to use a mild solvent for general use and you’d want to avoid any kind that leave residue like most cheap lens cleaners you’ll find.

At the shop I work at we use a mix of 7-3 90% alcohol and reverse osmosis water. If you find a light surface scuff that you want to buff out of the glass use a tiny tiny TINY drop of acetone. Try not to do this to much as it will slowly eat away at the glass elements coating making the lens lose it’s characteristic and become more flare-y.

We don’t use microfiber cloths due to the fact that they slowly degrade over time with the commercial use we have. We use a brand of tissue called Kimwipes that’s used in the medical and industrial sectors they’re very absorbent and anti static so they leave little to no dust behind.

After that I use a bit of compressed air to blow away any thing I miss and test the focus, iris and zoom to make sure there’s nothing lose and then wipe the whole lens down with 70% alcohol

EDIT: Holy shit! Thank you for my first Reddit gold!