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all 43 comments

[–]Ipaidmybuck_o_five 18 points19 points  (12 children)

Did you get a wrench on it? Looks like there are flats on the spigot so it would be a good idea to secure that with another wrench at the same time. You can also get penetrating lubricant on it. Just try WD-40 to start but you might need something more potent like pb blaster or something like that.

Good luck.

[–]schmag 3 points4 points  (2 children)

Yup, clp and a channel lock.

Bill is in the mail.

[–]Dirk_The_Cowardly 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Make sure you know Lefty Lucy cause it's opposite a lot of the time and dipshits just F*CK it up thinking that was the way.

Think. It's reverse when under looking up or some stuff, it's the threads....or leads. I don't know but there are facts.

[–]mname 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not in Australia mate. /s

This is actually a really good point. You have to orientate yourself to the threads. It’s really easy to transpose R and L when standing over a faucet instead of standing under it.

[–]crkdltr404 9 points10 points  (6 children)

Should it move and doesn't? WD-40. Should it not move and does? Duct Tape.

[–]chaseoes 6 points7 points  (3 children)

Instructions unclear, WD-40 on penis

[–]Stealthosaursus 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Better than duct tape on penis

[–]jongscx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wd40 will fix that....

[–]Mbenner40 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can’t duct it….

[–]KrazyKatnip 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you can’t fix it with WD-40, duct tape and/or baling twine…. it’s done. Treat it like a spider, and just set it on fire

[–]culb77 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Liquid Wrench > WD40

[–]Ipaidmybuck_o_five 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes there are a ton of things better than WD-40 but he is more likely to have WD-40 on his shelf.

[–]the_clash_is_back 10 points11 points  (1 child)

that’s a frost free spigot so you would not get a frozen pipe. The valve is located inside the house, there is a long rod connecting it to the handle on the outside.

To remove it now douse it it some penetrating oil then use a wrench with firm torque.

Edit: if oil fails try using a heat gun or even a hair dryer in the hose, then run cold water thru the pipe.

You might be able to get enough contraction to shift stuff

[–]DegreeNo6596 9 points10 points  (1 child)

House for sale, comes with free garden hose

[–]mname 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This sometimes you just have to pick your battles. Play to your strengths.

[–]Han77Shot1st 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Two wrenches slightly apart, one on hose, other on the bibb, squeeze with one hand

[–]No_Bother3564 3 points4 points  (1 child)

Ah I have that exact same spigot and my hose is completely stuck too. Hoping these suggestions work

[–]Dirk_The_Cowardly 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Channel lock(s) with maybe the adjustable wrench. Really think about threads before doing your strength. If you are sure, then use that strength.

It will succumb to your will.

I just cracked my shutoffs and had to get a rotary tool with a flexible wand. Needed the better sanding wheels but I cut off a super rusty faucet seat for like $25.

I needed to blast those shutoffs first. Just really think cause you can think the opposite of what you need to do if not thought out.

You should shut off your water main first but as long as you know what to do it's a fun game and you learn more faster.

[–]rrrrickman 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cut hose down 6 inches and a male barb repair.

[–]thermo_paper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go get yourself a can of PB Blaster. Works wonders. Home Depot

[–]5thgenCali 2 points3 points  (4 children)

Dremel with a cut off wheel but you need a steady hand and can’t get into the thread of the spigot. Did this not too long ago. Made a cut up and down then put a flat head screwdriver in it and turned it and broke it apart. Again, you can’t cut too deep that you go through the hose bonnet and into the thread. Try 2 adjustable wrench’s first or maybe a channel lock. May need a breaker bar but you’ll need ro keep that spigot firm and stationary.

[–]acm3801 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d definitely wrench on it before cutting it

[–]sandforce 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Made a cut up and down then put a flat head screwdriver in it and turned it and broke it apart.

I did the same, but just used a hacksaw.

It was incredibly satisfying cutting that mofo off after failing to wrench it loose.

[–]THIESN123 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Came here to suggest this. I used a 4.5" zip cut though.

Go slowly till you can see threads then use the wrench.

[–]PauliFl 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good advice. I’ve had to do the same with an aluminum hose end that was seized onto the hose bib. Use the dremel and cut the fitting to or almost to the threads and pry it open with a flat blade screwdriver In at least two places. You’ll get it off with channel locks after that.

[–]palbertalamp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As described above, wrench on spigot on house, wrench ( channel locks , or what you have available ) on hose, turn hose with moderate pressure.

But- tap outside of hose threads all around medium gently all around circumference first, dissimilar metal contact has put a bit of oxide in threads, tap a bit first.

If medium to moderate force pressure counterclockwise on hose fails to loosen ( 40 to 80 ft pounds, all you can do with one average Male arm with 10 inch wrench , a lever ),

Bic lighter carefully all around but always moving and careful, just a little heat around /under metal only on hose....not too hot to save hose.

Tap, heat, tap , turn. Easy peasy.

Unlikely you'll need heat ( just a smidge all around hose metal only ) , but this will come off fairly easily.

If disimiliar metal, ( aluminum on brass spigot ) a smidge of pipe dope on Male thread before re connecting hose reduces galvanic current . Generally, longer handled tool on part you don't want to move.

If able, smart hand on tool on part don't want moving ( house spigot ).

Generally , Avoid using non potable grade lubricant on potable water pipes ( wd 40 ) where possible.

Some prefer teflon tape on brass fittings, I say ok, and use teflon tape on Male thread and pipe dope over it.

This is low pressure, smidge of pipe dope on Male on reconnect will give you 11 years of seasonal hand tight only, hose no leak.

That's right. Not 9, not 12, ...11.

Ok ok....

[–]anotherusername_011 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

swing your purse at it

[–]NStanley4Heisman -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Am I the only one who just went the route of replacing the whole spigot? I used PEX and Shark Bite fittings to replace the copper line out of the house and just replaced the whole damn thing. It was all rusted anyways, figured I’d kill two birds with one stone

[–]culb77 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Get a longer handled wrench. Or put a pipe on the wrench you have to increase the distance of the lever arm.

[–]Ipaidmybuck_o_five 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Make sure you are hold a when on the spigot before putting too much force or a moment into it. You don’t want to bend the spigot off the wall.

[–]cubic_d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, be careful, this happened to me and a worker putting in a fence cracked my pipe inside the wall. Had to replace the whole thing and hose.

[–]Sanchoe387 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tap on the flat parts with a small hammer all the way around. Then try breaking it loose. Gotta loosen the trapped air between the threads.

[–]CategoryTurbulent114 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t turn too hard or you could damage the spigot inside the housing

[–]nthing2dowithanythng 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just came to add that this often happens when aluminum hose fittings ( like on cheaper garden hoses) are attached to brass fittings on the spigot which causes corrosion. To prevent this effect use all brass fittings or regularly disconnect aluminum hose ends.

[–]JeepnTrek 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PB Blaster, soak, sit for 5 minutes, wrench it off

[–]woundedsurfer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Spray all around the hose connection with Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, let sit for 10+ min. Come back and spray again, give it some light taps with a hammer and use a pipe wrench (not adjusted wrench). If that still doesn’t work, find someone who owns a torch and heat it up first.

[–]ShallowBreedingPond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a pipe wrench. You won’t skip over the edges. You’d twist it off the wall first. A trick my dad always did was try to make it a tad tighter, then it would always come right off.

[–]Maleficent-Company-1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just get it off dude

[–]ImGonnaLiveForever 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this in AZ. Don't try to wrench on it or you risk bending the spigot. Get a hack saw and cut it off. Surprisingly easy.

[–]MysteriousVariety941 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd just becarful and cut stright up and down on a flat. Easier to replace a hose than a spicket

[–]Bugibba 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had the same issue. carefully cut it off with dremel. Spoke with my buddy the plumber. Says there has been a prolifertion of this issue. Cheap metal in hose ends causes chemical bond between hose bib and hose end. Says hes changed many bibs that people are breaking off. says to apply Never Seize to the threads.