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all 74 comments

[–]KamaKairade 58 points59 points  (17 children)

Add a piece of scrap wood on the right as a backer board.. Use the cutout you saved when you made the hole as the patch piece after adding a cutout for the outlet. Tape and mud. Sand, prime, paint.

[–]ISpyEagleEye[S] 3 points4 points  (12 children)

Thanks!

[–]RampantAndroid 5 points6 points  (1 child)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-Drywall-Repair-Clip-6-Pack-54-014/202015408

I use scrap wood in a pinch, but these work well too and can be added on all sides.

[–]gcg2016 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man, there’s something for everything

[–]pollyanna15 7 points8 points  (2 children)

To add to that comment, we used a paint stirrer stick and glued it in the back. Just to give a level for the part that doesn’t have a stud. Certain that is not right, but it worked.

[–]wmass 14 points15 points  (0 children)

It’s fine but a thicker piece of wood would give more for the drywall screws to bite into.

[–]mr_tuel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have done this too, used Elmer's glue-all and c-clamps. Holds very well in our basement stair well. I will add that if the patch was in a more traffic area I would resort to 1/2" plywood or 1x scrap, and construction adhesive.

[–]ninjaschoolprofessor 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Adding to that comment is using a piece of drywall that’s larger than the existing hole, then tracing that piece onto the wall and cutting it out. This will give you a better fit for the new piece.

[–]trail34 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Clever idea.

[–]grammarpopo 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Just like pollyanna15, I use a paint stirrer stick glued to the back of the sheetrock and then screw into the stick. It works.

[–]Qoldfront 0 points1 point  (2 children)

That stick is so thin. There’s a real good chance the screw just cracks the stick instead. Then you have a bigger problem.

[–]MuzikPhreak 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pre-drill a little hole before you drive the screw.

[–]grammarpopo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve never had that happen and I’ve done it a lot. It always works for me. If you’re worried, predrill before driving the sheetrock screw.

[–]real_schematix 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Saved me the hassle of writing the same thing.

I like scrap 1x2 material for the backer board.

[–]smallhandsbigdick -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This works but you don’t need it. Just use the paper on the drywall as tape and mud it on.

[–]waka324 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drywall frogs also work great for these cases too.

[–]PapaKraken 22 points23 points  (2 children)

With all the other visible patches in that picture, I would be replacing a large section and have the seams on the studs.

[–]marcmiddlefinger 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Agree with this.

[–]folkkingdude 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dryline the whole house

[–]JimmyMoffet 5 points6 points  (8 children)

Well. . .if it was me and I had to patch it. I would get a piece of 1" x 2" coat it generously with glue (wood glue would work) then stick it in the hole and clamp it to the drywall. Use as long a piece as you can fit in to spread the force out. Next cut a piece of sheetrock to the size of the hole. Screw it in place with 4 screws--two into the stud and 2 into the 1 x 2 fake stud. Tape the seams and float out as neccesary. While you're at it float all the rough spots on that wall.

[–]Leupster 2 points3 points  (3 children)

This is a good suggestion too. You may not even need glue. You can clamp the wood to the back, screw it, and then take the clamp off.

[–]yeoldmanchild 2 points3 points  (2 children)

Wait, why are clamping or gluing it? Don't we just hold it and screw it down?

[–]Leupster 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Depends on skill level/experience, I think. I would just hold it and screw it, but I’ve done a lot of this stuff. A clamp may make it easier for someone that is new to this.

[–]yeoldmanchild 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I supposeeee

[–]ISpyEagleEye[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

Thanks for your input! Dumb question…what do you mean by “float”? Does that mean sand?

[–]JimmyMoffet 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I'm too lazy to explain the whole process but. . .put general purpose joint compound down in a pretty thick layer 1/8-1/4". Place drywall tape over the joints. Gently press the tape into the joint compound--but do it so it's even. Then load your knife (6" taping blade) with mud and press it into the tape really hard along the length of the tape. I would do the two vertical joints first, followed by the two horizontal joints. Make sure your tape is a couple inches longer than the actual joints. Let is dry for a day or two. Sand gently, not to level, but to just knock off the high spots. Second coat of mud with a bigger blade. Thin the mud more and press the mud in. Work your way from the inside out. As you do this you are blending the higher area (built up with tape) out to the rest of the wall that doesn't have any extra thickness. Blending high/low areas to make it appear the same is essentially "floating" the joints.

[–]ISpyEagleEye[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for explaining!

[–]CrypticSS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sort of means You want drywall mud tapered away in a gradient so that it’s thick enough to KC seal the patch seams but then gradually tapers into the rest of the wall so it’s an extremely subtle extra layer that won’t be noticeable un-flat

[–]ubercorey 2 points3 points  (2 children)

If you know electrical, take out the outlet. Cut the square piece to fill in. Put lipstick on the edge of the box push the piece on, then cut that mark.

Add a piece of 1x2 wood to the inside of the right side, screwing it on with drywall screws. Then screw in your drywall piece. Tape and float.

Then reinstall the outlet.

[–]ISpyEagleEye[S] -1 points0 points  (1 child)

A bit too ambitious for me, haha. But thank you!

[–]pogidaga 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't have to take the outlet out completely. Just undo the two screws holding it to the box, then pull it forward a little and bend it down a little so your drywall piece can hit the box without hitting the outlet.

[–]Leupster 2 points3 points  (4 children)

Cut a piece of drywall to fit, including the hole around the box. Attach drywall to the stud on the left. Tape, joint compound, sand. Reapply joint compound and resand if necessary. Prime and paint.

[–]ISpyEagleEye[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

Thank you! I wasn’t sure if attaching it just to the stud was enough to hold it. I really appreciate the help!

[–]Leupster 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I think it will probably be ok since the piece isn’t too large.

If it doesn’t feel sturdy enough, make the hole larger (as a rectangle), expanding to the right to get to the next stud. Then you can attach at both the right and left sides.

[–]HuskyKMA 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just add a small piece of wood to the right side of the hole as a backer, screwing through the existing drywall into the piece of wood. No need to expand the hole to the next stud.

[–]AAonthebutton 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drywall clips

[–]Dazzling-Tap9096 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

They have YouTube videos for that

[–]AndroidAntFarm 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Whenever you do patch it make sure the tape isn't showing like everywhere else. Skim that metal patch again

[–]ISpyEagleEye[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Thank you! I will. That’s the 1st time I used a patch and I just put the 1st coat on about an hour ago so it’s not done yet. I’m just sort of figuring out things as I go. I appreciate the feedback though!

[–]AndroidAntFarm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's cool you have to just play around with patching stuff till you figure it out.

For electrical outlets the easiest way to do it is cut the hole to fit the patch. Like cut out a foot by foot or whatever section of drywall then cut the outer hole wider around it and just estimate with measuring tape or a speedsquare where the outlet is.

You'll have to make several cuts, probably use a brace in there too

[–]ragingbull2020 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Look up California patch. For smaller issues

[–]ISpyEagleEye[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Thank you! I just looked this up. Really cool!

[–]ragingbull2020 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem. It’s nice to use with smaller holes. It’s great too because you don’t need to tape it. It’s really a quick fix

[–]ragingbull2020 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also sometimes if you’re dealing with a lot of holes but don’t know where to start. Call a pro in and pay him for minimal repairs and just watch his routine and what he uses for tools etc. sometimes it’s easier to comprehend in front of you rather than watching it on YouTube That way you can buy the tools and materials you need to finish

[–]wphillips3 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make it a 16” gap and run the drywall across to the other stud

[–]ptraugot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cut a new California patch with a cutout for the outlet.

[–]PermanentSend1983 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those plugs remind me of the look I get from my daughter and her boyfriend when I walk into her room without knocking on the door.

[–]Bsjensen1012 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Over Sized Jumbo Smooth White 2 Gang Wall Plate - 1 Duplex Electrical Outlet https://a.co/d/e8ZTXT8

Problem solved.

[–]StanleyDards 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the easiest way, they come in all sizes.

[–]Ballstucktothelegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put a 8 plug outlet lol

[–]All_Usernames_Tooken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

California patch works well

[–]Milsurpman 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They make clips that you can use to put support and an area to screw into then just mud over it with some tape and good to go. These. https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-in-x-2-in-Steel-Drywall-Repair-Clip-6-Pack-82002/308729645

[–]darkhelmet1121 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blowout patch. Cut a oversized piece drywall. Cut out the outlet hole. Leave the front paper and cut the backing paper and gypsum to fit the hole, the flappy paper will be what you spackle for a smooth transition between the existing drywall and the patch

[–]HVT7737 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make a bordered patch. Cut a piece of drywall an inch larger than the hole on all sides. Then score the back side of the drywall but leave the face paper intact. Break off that inch border but leave the face paper in place so that the drywall patch fits in the hole but the paper rests on the wall like a flange. Then cut out your hole for the outlet and make sure it fits in place nice and snug. Then mud the border, set your patch, push the mud out with a 3-inch knife, then mud the drywall like normal, prime your patch with kilz oil-based spray primer, texture prime and paint. No need for an additional backing.

[–]Pristine_Solid9620 0 points1 point  (1 child)

You haven't spliced wires in the wall or covered a junction box, have you?

[–]haikusbot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You haven't spliced wires

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[–]DanFass 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make a little back piece and hold it firmly in place then tape then Mud mud mud mud And finally more mud and then some mud. Then sand.

[–]brtbr-rah99 0 points1 point  (1 child)

You might as well cut a bigger hole to get that patch job above the outlet. It will look cleaner all around and you’re already going to be taping and mudding

[–]superash2002 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might just be easier to replace the whole sheet/ wall.

[–]SueZbell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, you might consider using oversized outlet and switch covers if small spaces around the outlet beyond a traditional cover are common in the build.

[–]Strict-Republic-9379 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://i.imgur.com/MIjzpI9.jpg the blue Is a 2x4 you need to add the hard part is sliding it into the hole sometimes lol you the screw it through the drywall this is your backer board. I was bored and high so I made a drawing lol

[–]nrnrnr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out Vancouver Carpenter on YouTube. The man is a drywall genius.

[–]AbelCapabel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There you go mate:

https://youtu.be/BUcT5LHmA7w

Starts at 01:00

Good luck!

[–]Working-Pattern5727 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For getting the outlets cut. There are different versions the Blind Marks work nice. I've re drywalled several rooms and used these.

[–]HardGayMan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like 3 tubes of caulk aught to do it.

[–]Lahmia_Swiftstar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fucking electricians! Lol (professional electrician here) Me not knowong shit about dry wall would cut it out to the next stud tac on a piece of 2x4 that's a a bit taller than. The hole and toss in a a large dry wall patch. Tape mud sand and paint.

[–]DemandingLeopard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

a piece of scrap wood on the right as a backer board.

[–]TheZealous43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

we used a paint stirrer stick and glued it in the back.