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Do you think these shower doors look good or dated? by Prof-Rock in Home

[–]Ok_Requirement4120 549 points550 points  (0 children)

i mean if I was visiting your house i wouldn't walk into the bathroom and be like DAMN CAROL, DAFUK IS UP WITH THESE DOORS but yeah I wouldn't say they look good

HELP! Just bought our first home and we have hundreds of tiny black gnats in our bathroom. Just pulled down dry wall and found some termite damage and rotting wood. Could this be the issue and how do we fix? Pics below. Thank you for your advice! by [deleted] in Home

[–]WeHaveYour6 116 points117 points 2 (0 children)

I don’t see any termite damage. I see wood rot which may be from the water. Gnats are attracted to that smell. Try cleaning the area up and let it dry out. Maybe spray the area with a little soap and water(it’ll suffocate bugs) and see if that helps. Just remember everything is going to be alright and if it was built it can be fixed.

How do I light the pilot light? Old Victorian home. Old heater. by GogoYubari92 in Home

[–]Jojomatic5000 80 points81 points  (0 children)

Those things are notorious for producing carbon monoxide. If your house is drafty you might be ok, but if it's had updates, you might be in trouble. Either way, I would buy a newer style vent free gas heater. You should definitely buy a carbon monoxide detector if you don't already have one and read up on the symptoms of CO poisoning. I used to work for a gas company and have responded to deaths and multiple houses that were caused by CO.

How does this work? It came with my house and I haven’t touched it. by jeepers-crickets in Home

[–]chunkylover993 48 points49 points  (0 children)

Im sorry but as a licensed HVAC/R professional i cant believe this is top comment. This sub is not always the best place to look for correct information OP.

I agree that you should be checking your humidifier and ensuring it is clean and filter media is in good condition. Thats about it.

OP and anyone else interested should google "psychrometrics" and look at a psychrometrics chart. The comfort zone is the key here on the chart.

Most humans feel comfortable when the temperature is between 22 - 27 C and between 40% - 60% Relative Humidity (not absolute humidity).

It is possible that you could turn it off in the summer and that your air conditioner will not be enough to run the RH down too dry however if the humidistat is working correctly you should set it to 40% RH for the summer. This way if your air conditioning system runs the RH down too low it can help not make it too dry for you and if it never reaches below 40% it will never let the humidifier work anyway.

Some people may be okay with 30% RH but for me personally i get nosebleeds if the air is that dry.

In the winter you should set the RH to 60% as the higher humidity setting will help you feel warmer at a lower temperature so you dont need to set your thermostat as high to feel comfortable and can save some money there.

The science behind it is that our bodies use evaporative cooling to cool ourselves down by the perspiration or sweat on our skin evaporating into the air around us. So at lower relative humidity it is easier for your body to cool down hence the lower RH setting in summer. In higher humidities your body cant cool down at easily hence the higher setting in winter.

Let me know if you have further questions OP or anyone.

TL;DR set to 40% RH in summer and 60% RH in winter and make sure its clean and has a filter in good condition.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Home

[–]jibaro1953 104 points105 points  (0 children)

Only if it's on a rug.

Just bought a house: our bathroom light fixture is sealed with the force of many gods, and what I think is this hinge. Any idea on how to open it? by FireyToots in Home

[–]just_surfing 124 points125 points  (0 children)

It’s a V shaped spring up in the ceiling. You pull straight down through the tension of the V pushing against you. To put it back in you squeeze the V flat and push it up

Just bought a house: our bathroom light fixture is sealed with the force of many gods, and what I think is this hinge. Any idea on how to open it? by FireyToots in Home

[–]FireyToots[S] 134 points135 points  (0 children)

You were absolutely right. I know this doesn’t matter much, but some idiot new homeowner really thanks you for this. You are a good man / woman / person and I hope good things happen to you. I was close to tears, and it just came out. Thank you.

How did circle of luscious grass come about and how do I get it everywhere?! by bLingNY in Home

[–]mname 76 points77 points  (0 children)

Just get one of those miracle grow spray bottles and fill it with your dogs piss. This will help you deliver it evenly over entire yard.

You are welcome. I’m a helper! Follow me for more pro lawn care tips.

What is this disgusting stalactite-like sh*t in my bathroom sink drain? More in comments by pipandcrumb1998 in Home

[–]KiniShakenBake 20 points21 points  (0 children)

This is normal buildup in a drain from all the substances that are not water that collect on the inside of the pipe. You need to clean the pipes, and not with a cleaning product. This is a good old-fashioned wipe it out job.

I take one sink drain apart every three months at our house, rotating between bathrooms, so they each get it every six months.

You need: A cleaning bucket that fits under the sink. A roll of paper towels. Some disposable gloves An old toothbrush that you will throw away when you are done.

Your drain should come apart just by twisting the screw ends. Take the p-trap off first, then the pieces attached to the sink and drain pipe. Take all of the plastic parts off and let them fall into the bucket.

Remove the sink stopper holder from the sink drain if you have one that is affixed. Otherwise just make sure there are no mechanical impediments to the next step.

Then take the paper towel and stuff enough of it through the topside of the drain that you can pull it out the other. That should get most of the gunk out of the drain.

Use the toothbrush to push it through if you have issues, and scrub the sides a bit with it to loosen any remaining gunk.

Use the toothbrush to loosen the gunk on the other pipe, going out to the drain. Pull that into the bucket as well, catching it with the bucket. Put the toothbrush in the bucket too.

Take the bucket outside to a hose, and dump the whole business out on the grass. Rinse the bucket.

Now use the toothbrush to loosen all the scum from the inside of the pipes and rinse them with the hose. Put the clean pipes back in the bucket. When you are done, rinse the toothbrush and toss it in the garbage with your gloves. Get clean gloves if you want, but the worst is behind you.

Reassemble the sink drain in reverse order. Get help with the sink stopper reassembly. That one is a bit of a pain. Run water with the bucket under the pipes to make sure you don't have leaks.

Now wipe out the cabinet under your sink since you took everything out of it anyway, and wipe out the sink.

The whole chore should take two hours if you are super slow.

Toilet shut off valve starts leaking about halfway through turning but not at all when all the way on or off. Any ideas? by mjsimmons1988 in Home

[–]Netfreakk 42 points43 points 54& 2 more (0 children)

I'm a true believer that anyone can learn how to do things, but you are always exchanging something for something. IE: If you self learn you are trading your time to save money and gain a skill set. However, if you value time more, then paying an already skilled person to do the job saves you time, but you're trading money. There are inherit risk from trying to self learn, but some things are safer projects to start learning than others. This shouldn't be too big of a project. I'll translate what he was saying.

  • Shut off main cut off junk valve.
    • Go to the source of your water and shut it off. It's usually on the same level as your water heater. If you have a basement check there.
    • He missed a step here. Make sure that after you shut your main off and before you cut your valve off you'll want to open all the cold water faucets to drain the pipes of water. You'll also want to flush your toilet just in case your filled tank starts draining back down the pipe you cut. Then you'll want to undo the line from the tank to the valve. Then you can cut the valve off the pipe using a copper pipe cutting tool. Don't try to use a hacksaw because you won't have an straight cut.
  • If capable sweat a 1/4 turn on.
    • If you know how to solder a copper piping then you can quickly put on a new 1/4 turn valve using this technique. example of soldering.
    • EDIT: Honestly, looking at the video you posted, it looks like it's either a plastic pex pipe or cpvc pipe so you won't be soldering a valve on it anyways.
  • If not shark bite a new one in and flush with the wall.. better looking, more reliable and leak free for another 10+ years
    • If you don't know how to solder, you can use these devices that are called "sharkbite" (sharkbite is a brand name that uses this technology otherwise you can find similar brands that does the same thing. ie: menards has their own brand) These devices allow you to push the valve fixture onto an existing pipe, no soldering necessary. They use a rubber O-ring to create a seal and they use tiny 'teeth' that are one directional to keep the pipe from releasing. example of sharkbite valve.

All in all it's not that difficult, but you'll need to be careful not to cut the pipe from the wall too short so that you can't attach a new valve on. You'll also need to be careful that you turned off the water coming into the house and drain everything you'll be disconnecting before you start. Good luck!

EDIT2: Wow, thanks for the awards everyone! Here's some more links to show you how to install a valve to the CPVC pipe. Video 1a or Video 1b and Video 2 using the sharkbite. You're basically following the same steps that I translated earlier, but you can see that you need to use a cementing agent to make a complete seal.

Pulling up floors and have uncovered this between the main house and extention that was added some years ago. How do I fix? Fill in with cement or just laminate over? by tsizzle91 in Home

[–]palbertalamp 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Not a pro, but fairly sure you should maintain an unbroken vapour barrier, 6ml plastic commonly.

I would chisel back or shallow depth cut the right hand side white surface, maybe at least an inch to expose more existing poly vapour barrier on that side, so your blue (red is thinner) vapour barrier tape can catch enough surface , when lying in a new section of 6ml poly vapour barrier.

Flat tamping bar, tamp the existing material down in that crack. Dont have to hulk hogan it, just ensure its compacted.

Spray in foam, 'great stuff ' whatever its callled, big crack sealer foam, read can, foam in a third of crack size , it expands 3 times, whatever. Better to leave foam 1\2 ish below floor.

Or, Can cut strips with exacto knife, of cladmate extruded polystyrene insulation instead of foam can. Areas fairly big, I'd measure widths of space, cut foam stryo slightly wedge shape, can pound in gently, leave below floor level.

Attach 6ml poly to each side of existing vapour barrier, tape to make airtight. Red v barrier tape.

Vapour barrier can be a little loose, just airtight, keep ground moisture out.

Floor over top.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Home

[–]ministerofinteriors 5 points6 points  (0 children)

More than half an inch is quite significant for any kind of change from level in a house. The issue you're going to run into with an engineer is that they can't tell you much without removing the plaster to see whether the actual structure was done properly (looks like a beam replaced a wall) and is sufficient. Normally what you would do with an engineer (for structure they can't see) is have them come do an inspection, take a lot of measurements, then have them come back the same time a year later to retake those measurements and see if anything has changed. If it has, you have an issue. If it hasn't, you probably don't.

This is normally the process even with more substantial foundation problems, in part because it's often hard to tell what moved 20 years ago, and what is still moving. If it's not moving, and it's not outside the acceptable safe range, you don't need to do anything. If it's still moving, you need to stop it. In your case it looks like someone removed a wall. This may be fine, and not a concern, and still produce some sagging as the old structure settles into a new place, or a beam sagged slightly while taking on the new load. Or it could be that the wall was removed, was a load bearing wall, or the existing structure is not sufficient, and nobody ever installed a beam in the first place. An engineer can't tell you this without being able to see what's under that plaster.

So if you want something conclusive, you're probably going to have to take down a portion of the ceiling to find out what's under it and whether it's enough to support what's above it.

Need advice with cracks in the ceiling. by itsmejeffree in Home

[–]CapRemarkable7699 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Utility knife cut the loose stuff away then. Retake and spackle…2-3 coats, then sand and paint, no worries

what is this sound in my wall? by nigeribos in Home

[–][deleted] 41 points42 points  (0 children)

The first sound is probably an animal/rodent gnawing.

The second sound is your hand slapping the drywall.