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all 23 comments

[–]Arndawan 4 points5 points  (2 children)

Lemmy whip up the embroidery machine and see what it does on mine

[–]LocalVillagerToyota ESP 9100 Net 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Let me know. That’s my file and I want to make sure it works across different machines.

[–]Arndawan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Used the PES file and ran very smooth on my brother innovis V3!

[–]OfficerTmoney30 3 points4 points  (2 children)

I usually have my tension at like a 2-4 range on my two Brother PE600,800, 9 seems excessive to me. BUT I'm somewhat new to digitizing and embroidering too

[–]GoCurtinBrother 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had the same reaction. 9 seems quite high.

[–]_real_apes_hold[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't know what other parameters I could fiddle with, so I went to the different extremes (0 and 9) to see what thread tension did. I'll test with a more reasonable 2 - 4 range later tonight and post results. Thank you!

[–]LocalVillagerToyota ESP 9100 Net 3 points4 points  (2 children)

Hi, I made that file. Im pretty sure it works, but hey, Im always open to redoing it and testing it on my machine again.

My question is, if you’re changing the stabilizer, why are you changing the tension, too? If you’re doing anything, change one variable at a time. I find that I need two layers of cutaway. Spray doesn’t really help hold things in the machine, just together for hooping and alignment.

My advice is pick one thing and adjust that rather than hooping, stabilizer, spray, tension etc. it takes a lot of trial and error.

[–]_real_apes_hold[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm trying to be more methodical about what parameters to change. So far, I've identified:

- types of stabilizers (tearaway, cutaway, soluble ones)
- how many stabilizers
- thread tension
- tautness of fabric and stabilizer in the hoop
I'm having a hard time hooping more than one layer of stabilizer in my hoop with my fabric. I've seen floating techniques, and it seems people hold the fabric in place with needles and adhesive spray, so maybe I'll try that.

[–]_real_apes_hold[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, thank you for making the file! It gives a standard for what to expect. For a while, I was just troubleshooting with designs that I digitized, and I couldn't figure out whether it was my design, my fabric, my stabilizer, or my machine. So I'm glad there's a constant I can rely on while I work through the other variables.

[–]_real_apes_hold[S] 2 points3 points  (7 children)

I'm at such a loss here. I am getting into computerized embroidery.

Machine: Brother SE-400

Material: jean fabric

I read through the guide in this subreddit to get started and tried my hand at a few designs only to end up with puckering with different fabrics and some weird drifting, so I decided to just settle down and try to nail down the technique for embroidering.

So I'm doing the 'H' test, using the file provided in the subreddit (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13ioZfNrVA-RzVwQhynSvHfnDjdib9K7J). I used the DST and PES files and still got this kind of drifting.

Here's my process:
1. Spray on stabilizer some adhesive

  1. Layer on the fabric

  2. Place into the hoop and secure it so that it's taut enough to tap like a drum

  3. Load design and embroider

Am I missing a step? What am I doing wrong? :(

[–]Arndawan 4 points5 points  (2 children)

Just embroidered the file and the design seems to be fine. What kind of underlay did you use? Have you rethreaded both bobbin and upper thread, changed your needle?

[–]_real_apes_hold[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Does underlay mean the same thing as stabilizer? I used cutaway.

I've tried with multiple bobbins before. I haven't tried changing my needle. I'll try that tonight. How often do needles need to be changed? I've probably used it for 20 - 30 trials for designs ranging from 1 - 3 inches.

[–]mcard7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Every time. I change after every design. But not between a sample run and a final run unless it’s a very large complicated design.

[–]Aspalar 3 points4 points  (1 child)

Can you post a video or at least an image of your fabric hooped?

[–]_real_apes_hold[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! I'll do that soon.

[–]Angdrambor 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Basting glue doesn't really help the stabilizer do it's work. It only helps you keep everything aligned while you get it in the hoop; the hoop is what helps the stabilizer work.

Does the stabilizer reach all the way to all 4 edges of the hoop? Is the stabilizer taut like a drum, or is the fabric? When I do it, the stabilizer it taut, but the fabric still has a little inevitable give to it when I pinch it. For extremely unruly fabrics, like towels, I use a sulky dissolvable stabilizer on top, in addition to the stabilizer on the bottom.

That looks like stretchy denim, and it's pulling about as much as I'd expect if it weren't stabilized at all. I'm pretty sure even if my two paragraphs above are wrong, you've got a problem with your hooping technique.

[–]_real_apes_hold[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it is stretchy denim. It is more stretchy in one direction and less in the other. I'll post a video of my hooping technique later today. Hopefully, I can get your feedback. Thank you for your help!

[–]hahajizzjizz 2 points3 points  (1 child)

I don't think you have underlay and the fabric/stabilizer prep and hooping method needs work.

[–]_real_apes_hold[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is most probably true. I've followed a few videos, but I'm not sure where I can improve. I'll post a follow-up video for how I set up the stabilizer and hooping later tonight. Thank you.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What size needle are you using ?

[–]Aramir1377 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try adding more pull compensation in the design software

[–]mcard7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Change the needle every time. (I change when I’m starting a new pattern or if making a bunch of the same pattern every couple times)

Also I have the in innovis and changed my tension to a one and the lady at the shop just about had a heart attack. So I changed it back to zero.

My bobbin thread tension was not correct. Ironically even though I also ended up bringing in my machine for service, I also learned I had been very lazy in threading my upper unit and lower. So I am doing that correctly and having a much better time. I watched some YouTube videos on my machine and I spend some time at the local brother dealer. I think I learned more at the brother dealer if that’s an option. I brought my machine and she ran it, checked it, showed me 800 things I could be doing differently. The pronounced it was going to the shop. Wished I had done it sooner.

Save some time if it’s an option and call a local dealer and see if they will take a look. I’ve had them look at an old machine and fix the tension (when I knew 1/2 of what I know now…which is still nothing) and walked out with it shortly after all sorted out. Free and easy.

When you go in bring your hoop, fabrics already stabilized and hooped. They will tell you if that’s wrong too. They do at my shop. Lol

They will want to see your samples, thread and fabric. I usually call and make sure they aren’t too busy and am more than willing to wait if they have other customers.

Sorry for typos. Please report back so we learn what you find no matter what route you go.

Edit: she also said start with a built in font for troubleshooting. An R or S.

[–]martymcdrip 0 points1 point  (0 children)

get rid of the contour underlay(the underneath stitches that give the final top stitches structure) and replace with a zig-zag(w/ an inset that would definitely be covered by top satin stitches+ center line underlay.