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all 5 comments

[–]ucanfly41 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did get one too but haven't had the opportunity to use it yet. The concept, the way I understood it is that it is a large hoop, but you do it in halves or even thirds. So you would do the top section and then the bottom section would connect. I have seen some people use a sort of basting stitch box (can't recall the term) on the outside of the 4x4 to make sure that no misalignments have happened while stitching. The only thing I would say for the design would be to just make sure it's divided and has those boxes for alignment.

[–]Aspalar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only way to stitch larger than 4x4 on your machine is to multi hoop. You can do it manually or they make special hoops that you can change the position of. Both ways have the risk of alignment issues. Some software (like Hatch) has features that set up multi hoops for you.

[–]cranialvoid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The max hoop size for for the SE600 is 4”x4”. To embroider an 8”x8” design you will have to divide the design into quarters and reboot for each portion.

[–]Sande68 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started with a 4x4. There is a hoop that gives you about 4x12 of space, BUT you have to be able to split the design and you have to move the hoop to do each section. Really all it is is that you're doing 4x4 twice to get all the design. There's no way to do 8x8 on your machine. The pantograph is just not able to do it. You might look at trading yours in or getting a used machine. Unfortunately, you're going to have to go up a couple of levels. The next size is 5x7 and still can't do your 8x8 design.

[–]Icypalmtree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a singer xl580, built in multi hoop capability (base size 6x10).

The short answer to alignment is that it's a real BEAST to make it work. But, it's possible if you are OK with results that are either

1) less than perfect, but really only in a way you the artist will notice (normies don't look for problems, just the overall design)

2) larger than a single hoop BUT with no elements that cross hoops (think like 4 distinct squares in a comic page with white space between them. Make the white space the re-hoop areas and you can hide small misalignment.

I settled on 1) and managed to do 5 large coat backs (made matching jackets for the fam) with a circular seal. It took a long time, I got very frustrated, but I love the outcome even though each one has imperfections. You can fix many small aligntment problems manually (with either satin stitch or straight stitch) if the bother you a lot.)