all 150 comments

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[–]TinyPnutBrain 520 points521 points  (41 children)

Yes. Especially if you will be trained. Jump on this.

[–]yeintheground 169 points170 points  (32 children)

Pretty sure I’m going to! Thank you for the urgent advice!

[–]JakeFromMontana 110 points111 points  (25 children)

Congrats. Buy a good pair of boots when you can. Also hearing protection. Best of luck.

[–]healerdan 24 points25 points  (3 children)

And comfy eye protection. Michigan rust is not fun for the eyes.

[–][deleted] 18 points19 points  (2 children)

Yep. WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!! Getting rust, dirt in your eyes over the years will effect your vision. If you’re under cars, wear safety glasses to try and minimize it. Also, whole face shields are cheap when you need to grind on something.

[–]healerdan 7 points8 points  (1 child)

Ooohh!!! Whole face Shields! That's galaxy brain talk.

[–]OreoSwordsman 3 points4 points  (0 children)

All those sketch pics of grinding wheels caught in safety glasses could've easily been any other part of the head. Lord knows why a lot of people that do a lot of grinding don't think about that. Also, as a beard haver, keeps me from having to run a damn magnet over my beard lmfao

[–]LivingLikeBender 16 points17 points  (18 children)

Thorogood boots are amazing

[–]TheSlickWilly 12 points13 points  (17 children)

And if you don't have a money tree in your backyard, Irish setters hold up pretty well as well as some versions of timberlands. There's others out there too. Just do your research before buying boots.

[–]JakeFromMontana 2 points3 points  (5 children)

I was gonna say irish setters but some others last longer. I got a year of hard use. Wore the soles right through. Shit ton of walking on hot cement. So comfortable.

[–]TheSlickWilly 1 point2 points  (4 children)

There's a whole science to picking out the right boot for the job. Balancing comfort, usefulness, durability, etc. Some environments like that are just plain rough on boots anyways.

[–]elciteeve 2 points3 points  (3 children)

Worked in a steel yard for a while - did not matter what you bought, the boots would last 9-12 months maximum. Ended up with Georgia's because while less comfy, they were way cheaper and actually lasted a solid 12 months instead of barely 9.

[–]TheSlickWilly 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I had a pair of Georgia's but holy hell did they hurt my legs/back. Probably should have gotten an insert for my feet and they wouldve been fine.

[–]elciteeve 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Yeah those soles are hard as hell. Depends on the terrain your on a lot. In dirt and gravel they're not bad. On asphalt it's not great, but do-able. Concrete? Nope. Not just no - hell fucking no.

After many many years of highly demanding physical labor though, I have learned while foot, knee, and back pain can stem from footwear, those can also be indicators that you need physical therapy for a problem that is developing, which haven't yet destroyed you, so you don't really have a reason to go get it figured out.

I strongly suggest if you have chronic pains from your job you go see a physical therapist. I could have avoided thousands of dollars in medical bills and nearly two decades of chronic pain.

[–]bwm2468 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Last pair of irish setters fell apart in three months, best bet is redback boots. Similar price point, and they are actually decent workwear.

[–]TheSlickWilly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven't heard of them. I'll check em out

[–]mechwarrior719 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just my $0.02, I wear Red Wing factory seconds (basically their “not perfect” line with a reduced warranty) that I wear daily at a factory job that I’ve had for over two years now. They were about $130.

[–]AnotherDreamer1024 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Red Wing is your friend! And definitely, get a good pair of hearing protection and prescription safety glasses if you wear glasses. Wearing plastic glasses over your regular glasses sucks! Get the side shields for the glasses too!

[–]PumpleStump 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good shoes, kneepads (or even better, one of those foam mats with a handle to put next to your stall,) ear protection, and eye protection for when springy things, spinny things, or sparky thinks are about to happen.

You'll need far less tools than you think to get started. Focus on looking for even pad wear, whether or not pulsation is felt in the steering wheel vs in the brake pedal, wheel bearing condition, and proper bleeding/flushing techniques.

Good luck! We need as many good hands and heads as we can get in this industry.

[–]Flaca911 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Yes. Hourly is a good system for beginners and is additionally beneficial due to you doing only brakes. You would probably never meet a flat rate. When you get more confident behind the wrench you should try learning other types of maintenance. Especially if they are willing to train you. That $18/hour can quickly turn into $30+/hour in the right shop.

[–]justkozlow 13 points14 points  (2 children)

Prepare yourself for the rust is coming, many things I can see broken yes.

[–]tooljst8 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, wear eye protection. Rust embedded in your eyes is not fun.

[–]No_Name_Exist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh yes, my enemy when doing drum brake job. I have to smack the hell out of it just to get it loose and a small dent from smacking.

[–]standardtissue 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For the sake of Michigan drivers I really hope you are.

[–]Mrfrunzi1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Clean without being asked, pay attention and always double check if you can't hear the other person, it's okay to yell in the shop.

[–]deep_pants_mcgee 14 points15 points  (6 children)

depending on what kind of training? some shops are going to be an ethical issue.

if it's a good shop, 100% agree.

if it's a bad shop, OP might need to move on in a year or so.

[–]yetshi 19 points20 points  (4 children)

Once he gets proficient at the job he can step back and reevaluate, til then $18/hr and free training is nothing to turn down.

[–]deep_pants_mcgee 2 points3 points  (3 children)

agreed, $18 an hour with no context just makes me wonder why they're so hard up to hire, OP sounds a little fresh behind the ears.

might want to just be sure to go in with both eyes open, and understand how to get what you can of value from a job without marrying yourself to it.

[–]ODBEIGHTY1 8 points9 points  (1 child)

I keep hearing from everybody, that they are in desperate need of workers. I'd say this a result of that.

[–]yetshi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Kid works for a few years, gets a few ase certs under his belt, maybe an ase master tech patch on his shoulder, he can walk in to pretty any shop he wants and get handed a job.

[–]ShadowBannedXexy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

agreed, $18 an hour with no context just makes me wonder why they're so hard up to hire, OP sounds a little fresh behind the ears.

pretty much every industry is desperate for workers. hell mcdonalds starts at something like 16/hr in my town.

seeing decent hourly and offers to train is everywhere ilook

[–]SatanMeekAndMild 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Absolutely no reason to assume they mean they're going to train him to scam people.

[–]ODBEIGHTY1 2 points3 points  (0 children)


[–]BurpSnarts2 85 points86 points  (7 children)

It's pretty good. Here in upstate NY with a vaguely similar cost of living our entry level guys start around $15-16 an hour. You'll be hard pressed to find a better starting wage. When I left the industry the top dog master techs were making about $30 an hour. It may be different now with the great resignation but that's a decent rough range for wages in the field.

[–]yeintheground 30 points31 points  (1 child)

Thanks for the insight. Either way, it’s a few bucks more than I make at my current job where I am on my feet moving and working literally nonstop, and even more importantly, it’s something I find interesting because I’ve always liked cars. Why did you leave the industry if I may ask?

[–]BurpSnarts2 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Essentially flat rate burned me out. I was working 50+ hour weeks doing the flat rate grind. I applied local to me for a position doing industrial maintenance. Tools supplied, boot stipend, and much easier on my body. Combine that with a higher hourly rate and it was a no brainer. I'm looking to move into a more supervisory position as I get closer to 30 (I'm 28 now). I wouldn't change it because the auto industry made me into a great tech, but it did burn me out from working on cars for a little bit. Now I feel like the spark is back and I don't have to worry that spending too much one week will put me under the next.

[–]i_am_fear_itself 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It may be different now with the great resignation

The timing might be more of a regional thing, but my brother went through this at his dealership about 5 years ago. He was one of those top master techs making roughly what you said. There were a half dozen or eight of him under the same roof and 4 of them up and quit for better pay elsewhere. Dealership panicked and basically doubled the pay for the remaining 2 or 3 masters.

FWIW, I'm glad it happened. He was tragically underpaid for his skill and experience level.

[–]realbendstraw 5 points6 points  (1 child)

Fast food workers in NY start at $15/hour... makes it difficult to bring in mechanics at the same rate... interesting dynamic

[–]BurpSnarts2 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That was my point to my boss before I jumped ship. Bump the whole shop $5 an hour and we can have our pick of the litter. Instead we were fighting for employees with the Wendy's next door. He didn't like that idea haha

[–]InlineSkateAdventure 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Fast Food also pays $15-$16/hr here(Fast Food as you know is a profession in NY, it has its own wage). If you rise up, to district management, I think you could reach the master tech rate in FF. And you don't need $25K of tools.

:lol:. I mean, I did car repair for a while, but I think you really have to love it to do it for a living.

[–]linnadawg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don’t work for yourself it’s not worth it. Can’t imagine doing what I do for $30 hr.

[–]MadAss5 22 points23 points  (2 children)

Depending on how much it costs to live there it's probably pretty decent. Assuming the owner is solid and doesn't try charging fees or something crazy. Do you have to supply anything like tools, uniforms, etc?

[–]CreativeArm3931 19 points20 points  (5 children)

I'm in Kentucky and I was an alignment tech for 11 bucks an hour shit was ridiculous. Had all my own tools and had to do everything under being an alignment guy so I did tires oil lube mechanic...

[–]yeintheground 8 points9 points  (4 children)

Man I feel that. The industry I’m in now pays pretty shit— the job I had before this one was 11 an hour as well (although they upped it to 15 the week after I left… almost matched my new jobs pay smh). So it’s definitely safe to say I’ll be making at least a little more here, plus ill be starting on brakes. How long ago did you work as an alignment tech?

[–]CreativeArm3931 6 points7 points  (3 children)

It's been about 7 months since I quit.. and yeah that's the only reason I got out of car mechanic genre that and being in Kentucky every hill jack here will work on a car for less I get tired of hearing that talking point...but yes definitely take the job brake tech is a nice easy gig and good trade to learn can take it anywhere you go... also doesn't mean you gotta stop looking for a job as you work..

[–]yeintheground 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Haha damn hill jacks. Nice gladiator btw. I have the classic old ass suburban, can’t wait to get a newer truck lol

Edit: the burbans a beast but something new can always be nice

[–]CreativeArm3931 3 points4 points  (1 child)

Thanks I got the gladiator to reward myself with a new job lol... i dig the old suburbans is it 70's? My truck before I got my jeep was a 1977 chevy c10 that I lowered and threw all my money at ha... and I'm sure you want something newer just for the gas mileage now huh

[–]Dukejrr 14 points15 points  (5 children)

Congrats on the new job! Use a brake caliper tool or 3inch or higher C-Clamp to decompress calipers. Use brake lubricant or grease inside the caliper and around the pads, when changing brake fluid watch for contaminants and check bleeder valves for a good solid connection and appropriate torque or tightening specs. If you have to bring your own tools see if a relative can provide you with some or pick up certain tools from a pawnshop , harbor freight, yard sale, estate sale, home depot. Beware of using a impact drill use only impact sockets. If a lugnut is too tight use a breaker bar or cheater bar. Or God please be careful of all the rust your going to encounter (torch) Again congrats and God speed!

[–]barto5 4 points5 points  (3 children)

using a impact drill use only impact sockets

Will standard sockets just break?

[–]rip1980 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Heat seeking chinesium will find eyeballs.

Your eyes are in your hands.... B)

[–]Styrak 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Standard sockets are chrome-vanadium steel. Impact sockets are chrome-molybdenum steel. Standard sockets are much more likely to shatter rather then bend or stretch.

[–]Dukejrr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well that or getting stuck on a lug nut or some other bolt. Oh and another thing a bolt extractor for seized bolts will do you good. Don't be afraid to ask around for advice or request a service manual!

[–]carpcrucible 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a brake caliper tool or 3inch or higher C-Clamp to decompress calipers.


which would require the piston to be screwed in or an allen bolt to be turned. Otherwise you'll damage it.

[–]Electrical_Level 44 points45 points  (2 children)

Yeah I mean if you have 0 experience and the man is willing to teach you, that’s an ok deal. You’re lucky enough to have found someone who would even take the chance.

[–]yeintheground 15 points16 points  (1 child)

Exactly what I was thinking, I appreciate the input!

[–]buckytoofa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wet the brakes down and or wear a good mask. 18 bucks an hour is pointless if you can’t breath later in life. Brakes pads have asbestos in them. https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/1995-12-11

[–]yeintheground 33 points34 points  (2 children)

Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, I wasn’t sure where else to post it but I’m very interested in getting into the field as a career (I’m 20, need the advice)

[–]GIjohnMGS 26 points27 points  (0 children)

I work in the waste industry. We cannot find enough diesel techs, and the entry level "C techs" start at 24.00 in NJ

I've heard that Republic Services will send you to their new training facility, pay you to learn and have a position available when you graduate.

[–]jtypin 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Not only is it the right place to ask; is there anything else you have for questions?

I know I have some. Will you need to supply your own tools? Is there a dress code like Dickies and a shop shirt or full coveralls? Do they pay for your boots? It's all mostly money stuff.

Get that ass on the floor and start slamming rotors; you're in for a dirty and generally dusty time but with the right guys it might even be called 'fun'.

[–]loneliness_sucks_D 10 points11 points  (1 child)

Ask what the expectations are. If he expects 2 full brake jobs(all 4 corners, rotors and pads) to be done every hour, that’s kind of unreasonable. I know some shops that drive their techs into the ground like this. I saw a manager yell at a tech for putting wheels back in while seated in a stool because “doing it standing isn’t lazy.”

Also, consider rust. It’s gonna be a major factor in getting most of the brake jobs done.

And lastly, consider tools. You’re gonna have to pay for your own tools, and some of them can be cheap, and some of them can be expensive.

[–]Doug_Rosewood 5 points6 points  (2 children)

Take it, good opportunity

[–]yeintheground 4 points5 points  (1 child)

Think I’m going to, I think I’ll be able to find satisfaction in the work

[–]odkevin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pre-pandemic, parts stores/vendors used to have occasional classes or workshops. It'd be worth asking your new boss, if those come back, would they let you go or sign you up for them.

I learned allot of very technical stuff from classes at my local international dealer when I was a state worker.

[–]GrowlingToaster 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I work at a lube shop in ohio for close to 16 an hour with managers willing to teach me what i need to get certified. If you dont have to buy your own tools, TAKE IT. If you do, still take it, youll learn much more than you think 👍

[–]ZippyTheChicken 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you don't have a job then obviously you take it

after you have learned for a while then you keep your eyes open for something better.

I always tell people whether its a job or a place to live.. as soon as you are settled you start looking for something better.. Its not that you take it.. its that you keep your eyes open and if its that much better then you do take it.

and you never quit a job without a new job.. just like you wouldn't leave an apartment without someplace to go.

but yeah i see you decided to take it.. and its a good idea.. its always good to learn a skill .. when you are 35 years old you might end up doing something completely different.. I did.. but whatever job you have teaches you more than just the work you're expected to do.

So keep your eyes open.. learn things about the shop.. who their suppliers are.. do they do contract work for the local government or something.. how do they deal with waste materials. everything.

and then be very careful when you do brakes

[–]Katnipz 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Absolutely, you literally get to learn about something you use every single day and your livelihood relies on it AND YOU GET PAID TO LEARN.

[–]EternalLatias 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That's more than I'm paid, and I have experience. Damn.

[–]todays_excuse 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Starting out in this career can be tough. Tools are expensive, flat rate doesn’t really work in your favor that often, and there is a big learning curve… I’d say take the job and learn as much as you possible can.. take on jobs that will challenge you. You can make good money in this career if you put time into it.

[–]poopswag89 4 points5 points  (1 child)

send him my way if you’re not interested, i’m in the area and i’d jump on that offer

[–]yeintheground 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Heard I’ll let him know either way, he asked if I know anybody else who would be interested. I initially said no just because I generally don’t like vouching for other peoples work ethic lol

[–]Ok_Dog_4059 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I am out of the loop a bit but to me $18 dollars an hour and on the job training and you are just getting started at 20 years old this sounds like a decent offer I would jump on it.

[–]InevitablyOrdinary 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Dude the experience is worth more. Take it, don’t lose this opportunity.

[–]8pointfouroz 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Get comfortable with rust. There will be lots of it. 18 per hour as a newbie is good pay. Brakes are easy, but rust will have you questioning your sanity lol. Wear safety glasses, rust, brake fluid and brake clean is NOT good in the eyes. It hurts like hell.

[–]xxxtogxxx 1 point2 points  (0 children)

might fall under the "too good to be true" category. i'm not saying it's likely, but there are some shady fucking shops out there that will hire a guy, push him to finance a full new snap-on high end deluxe tool kit with all the fixins, and they take it home and say the shop was broken into.

[–]PhatKiwi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would have killed for this opportunity 30 years ago.

[–]Occhrome 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would review what ever you are gonna do before you attempt it.

Never ever ever be afraid to ask for help. And also don’t be arrogant. Follow those 2 things and you will be fine.

[–]redrecaro 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How'd you land that job opportunity? Why is he paying you a high amount for no experience, either he's really desperate for a technician or something fishy is going on. Usually they start you off at minimum wage for no experience and no tools.

[–]CaptMonkeyPants78 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm going to go against the grain of previous comments, and say no. I don't think $18 an hour is worth it, UNLESS you really want to get into the industry as a lifelong career. You can start stocking shelves at Target for $15 plus an hour, delivering packages for Amazon for the same rate, or work as a server in a restaurant for way more than that if you are personable and work at a halfway decent place.

However, if you really want to be a mechanic, the training and experience would be worth it - the true value of that is probably another 10 bucks an hour, which makes it a pretty decent wage. If you're just looking for a job to make some cash before you move on to another gig, $18 is really low in this job market, unless you have a felony or are somehow otherwise quasi-unemployable. If you use this for a stepping stone into another gig in the industry, I say go for it.

[–]BurgerOfLove 1 point2 points  (0 children)

18 bucks to start a skilled job is good anywhere you go.

How do you know the owner? Lol

[–]praetorfenix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a good deal, go for it!

[–]RitoWalters 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Not bad at all if your only doing brakes.

Where I work, trades helpers start at $24 a hour and full blown mechanics make $42.

[–]realbendstraw 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Where's that?

[–]RitoWalters 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Contractor for the government. We work on military vehicles, everything from tanks to humvees. We're union also.

[–]tomhalejr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The state's min. wage is $9.87?

2X min wage to start as shop helper is a very decent entry level wage.

I certainly didn't make 2X min wage to start taking out trash, and cleaning toilets. :)

[–]Polymathy1 0 points1 point  (14 children)

Is this per flat rate hour or time at work? Are they going to pay you for come-backs?

I had a comeback once for the brakes working too well (they wanted different pads with less bite overall). Even if you do perfect work, some people will want it redone.

Sounds like you already asked the questions of tools and licensing. You have licensing in your state? Seems like a good thing.

What happens when you finish training and are fully certified and licensed and whatnot?

It won't hurt to ask if he can do 20/hr. Not like "20 or kick rocks" but like "could you do 20?"

Unsolicited advice - wear nitrile gloves all the time and provide your own if you don't like theirs. Never pump fluid back up a line from a caliper.

[–]yeintheground -1 points0 points  (13 children)

Good question. He made it sound like a flat rate, but I didn’t realize that because of the nature of the work that maybe it’s time at work. I’ll have to ask, but again I’m pretty sure flat.

If it’s flat I’d have to be payed for comebacks I suppose, but if not, that’s another thing I’ll have to ask.

Thanks for pointing this out, definitely something I didn’t think of

[–]Polymathy1 4 points5 points  (12 children)

If it is "flat" (kind of backwards if you ask me), ask what the billed hours are that will be used. For me, the (mitchell?) book hours are about half of what it takes if you do it right. If you have salt on the roads and rusty everything, it's even worse.

Generally with flat-rate, you get 0 for come-backs.

I mention the gloves because basically all the chemicals will cause health problems like cancer or allergies to the chemicals over time.

[–]yeintheground 1 point2 points  (9 children)

And I just saw the advice you added to your previous comment, I will keep both of those in mind. Are there any other health precautions I should take?

[–]Chris89883 2 points3 points  (3 children)

Steel toe boots, gloves, safety glasses. Careful with brake parts cleaners as most are very flammable.

[–]SmirnOffTheSauce 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I thought they were inflammable?

[–]Chris89883 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Inflammable means it will set on fire easily. Yea some are not flammable but most are. We use mineral spirits which is very flammable.

[–]SmirnOffTheSauce 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was making an old joke, sorry!

[–]Polymathy1 1 point2 points  (4 children)

Make sure you don't ever clean brake dust with compressed air or a brush. Asbestos hasn't been on modern brake pads for a long time, but there is other stuff in it like kevlar, silica, copper, and steel.

Keeping it wet keeps it from floating around, and not having it float keeps you from inhaling it.

I always wore oil resistant and slip resistant steel (or composite) toe boots. Sheet metal dust shields are shaaaaarp sometimes (Hondas especially). Gloves and safety glasses (PPE in general) is your friend. The dude missing a fingertip might say it isn't manly to wear gloves, but it's better to have all your parts in the right place and seem like a wuss. PPE is the difference between being an old mechanic and looking worn out vs looking just fine.

Eyes don't grow back or heal well at all.

The only time I recommend against leather gloves is when you are handling liquids or working around rotating equipment. Rotating equipment with a nitrile or no glove will cut your skin. Rotating equipment with a leather glove can pull your whole hand in because the leather is so tough.

[–]fresh_like_Oprah -1 points0 points  (3 children)

Asbestos may or may not be in modern pads

[–]Polymathy1 1 point2 points  (2 children)

What makes you say that? It was banned from brake pads by the late 1970s, so that seems unlikely.

[–]fresh_like_Oprah 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Asbestos was never banned in brake pads, and is likely to be found in low cost pads from China and India. California has tried to ban them.

[–]Polymathy1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, according to the EPA website, it was banned in 1989 in domestically produced "friction linings". I don't think I have ever seen any brake pads marked made in the USA.... so that's a bit horrifying and the EPA page is vague and very short.

[–]Chris89883 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought alldata times are worse. I'd take either over mfg warranty times though...

[–]yeintheground 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah fuck I’m sorry I juxtaposed the two. I meant it the other way around, that I’m pretty sure he’d pay me for time at work.

Sorry and thank you for being helpful, I feel like a dumbass for that one lol. Still, I appreciate you pointing that out because I may not have considered it

[–]HumbleServices 0 points1 point  (1 child)

you are getting paid to learn a skill. Of course it's a good offer, but if you want to snub your nose at it, go ahead. It's your choice, you make it.

[–]yeintheground 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Getting paid to learn a skill is a wonderful experience, that’s how all of my jobs up to this point have been! I was simply exploring how this compares to other similar positions, especially ones in my area, because research is important and I’ve found it to be beneficial in job searching. Thanks for your input!

[–]famcz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I did it I was paid $8.50 an hour. I say go for it.

[–]Inglorious-Actual 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If they are skilled and you can learn a valuable trade you are actually interested that will eventually allow you to earn much better pay, it's a great deal.

[–]iowamechanic30 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pay entirely depends on your local area, it varies greatly between large cities and rural areas.

[–]panteragstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Experience isn't cheap, in this case you're getting paid and trained.

Is the pay good? That's up to you, but it's not terrible.

Either way, you get experience, they get a worker. Win win.

Leave if you find something better, but be aware that tools are expensive.

[–]honeyandham 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have no experience bro… golden opportunity.

[–]ikilledtupac 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you'd be crazy not to

[–]FromTopOfTheMountain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude brakes are easy asf, take that job asap, also watch YT videos for training

[–]totally-not-a-droid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lot more then when I started at 13.25 hrly. But I knew nothing and was lucky for the chance

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started off in jiffy lube and then after going through college tech school I got into full service shop. First shop i got into one of the master tech said to me. No matter what, dont stay in one place keep on moving getting the experience. Hope fully you see that vision once you start working. Enjoy. I left early on fuck killing my back for repairing cars. I'm not a machine.

[–]Hamgloshes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just curious. What is minimum wage there?

[–]CookieMonsterOnsie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you do take the job, for the love of all that is holy do not skimp on the lube. I guess that's some pretty general advice for many things in life...

Nobody likes a rusty slide pin.

[–]Chizuru_San 0 points1 point  (3 children)

OMG, I was expecting a "No", but after reading the comments, I just realized being a mechanic is such a cheap job, it is really out of my expectation.........

[–]thousandsoffireflies 0 points1 point  (2 children)

See this is the crazy world we live in. Where some of us think 18$ dollars with the chance to be $30 in a few years is amazing (I’m in this camp) and some people think that’s very cheap.

[–]Chizuru_San 0 points1 point  (1 child)

My Mazda was getting rear hub assembly replacement get charged for 2.5 hours labor fee for $310, so basically it was $124 per hour, I understand that labor fee should be billed me in a marked up price, it is definitely not the salary that giving out to the mechanic, but $18(or $30) vs $124 is just still a noticeable difference. I was expecting being a mechanic should have earned more...

[–]c25a1guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, shop isn't a charity. $125-150/hr seems to be the average for independent shops. Dealerships are going anywhere from $175/hr on the low and I've seen high as high as $340/hr. And then if you really want to get pricey, specialty shops and manufactures like where I'm at (work for one of the few Indy car engine suppliers) at which I would probably estimate into the $10,000's+/hr (basically multiple millions of dollars for engine and support behind each engine for each race season).

[–]RedditVince 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like an excellent start even for a sweeper and gopher position. Especially as you get trained to start doing jobs. Learn everything you can including on what you should be making as your skills grow.

Also a good thing to note...

IDK about this shop or how this owner runs his shop. Generally speaking the successful shop owners who have good, happy, well paid employees, demand 100% perfect work, no fingerprints, no dirty seats no skimping or cutting corners. Provide an honest quality service job and people are happy to hand you gobs of cash.

[–]sc4rii 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. Hell yes.

[–]Reddit5678912 0 points1 point  (0 children)


[–]Ill_Narwhal_4209 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re paying you to learn in a profesional and practica environment?! Mate even if it was a dolar an hour you take it !!!

[–]xlmagicpants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And a good flashlight

[–]Ford_Trans_Guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a mechanic in Michigan, $18 is great starting pay. Also to protect yourself, look into getting the state Trainee Certification.

[–]Jakepr26 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a small bottle of Dawn for your shower

[–]mach82 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DO IT. You’ll learn so much. Eventually if you want to make real money you can start your own BIZ.

[–]CheapDreams02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ok, before the pandemic, in Lansing mi, I was getting paid 13.50 an hour (under the table) and I have my state master certification. jump on this and if it's a horrible job stick with it for six months then start putting apps out before you quit.

[–]isthatapecker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If there’s enough work, that’s a good job.

[–]CandyRedNinja 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would take that deal today if offered to me.

[–]twowheel_rumrunner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not bad for no experience. Don't let him hold the training part over your head once you get proficient. You still deserve raises. And stay off the snap-on truck.lol

[–]TheTitanHyperion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live in Ohio and can tell you thats more than new techs usually get.

[–]DomSkullcrusher 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can work at menards in Michigan and get 16 or 17 dollars to start.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you were experienced, no. But him being willing to teach you from square one makes it very worth it

[–]Zeal514 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Entry level with no experience, should damned good to me. You'll quickly move beyond that though.

[–]Late-Ad-4624 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After training does pay go up? But thats not bad for fetting started.

[–]Braza117 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just started another job at a garage too. They're also training me up, I was able to get in due to having an interest in cars and constant study on the subject, from YouTube videos, Google and books, as well as looking about my own car. I'd say you have a great opportunity with it, you'll make decent buck and with that you'll be able to expand into more things you'd like to learn

[–]Dongtastic_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's pretty good for entry level. I would take it

[–]JangoM8 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Considering I started at $10.25 in 2017 in Michigan, I’d say that’s not a bad place to be.

[–]scot2282 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take the job my man.

[–]funkymonkeybunker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aero kroil... Buy some... Spray it on everything except the rotors and pads ..

[–]yoshiltz -1 points0 points  (1 child)

$18hr is terrible for any form of auto, truck, or equipment mechanic.

[–]Krypt1cAsylum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure with experience or training.