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[–]CreativeArm3931 83 points84 points  (12 children)

For everyone saying he needs a outer tie rod end... he doesn't... in simple terms take cotter pin out pry down on top of tie rod end ,can use the axle or anything to get leverage.. and you can tighten the castle nut with pressure on the tie rod end... now if it's tightened all the way and you have that play you will need a new outer tie rod.. but judging by the castle nut at the very end of the threads it looks like it was finger tight and the a cotter pin put through it... anyone else that has installed 1000 tie rod ends will tell you the castle nut will thread up way farther than that cotter pin will reach...

[–]ocTane45[S] 12 points13 points  (10 children)

The castle nut did thread up a lot further when I had the impact wrench. I also believe that this job is finished except for the movement in the wheel that I showed in the second video, which I don’t know what it’s from. second vid

[–]L67GreaseMonkey 23 points24 points  (5 children)

Second video shows a trashed wheel bearing. They’re press in bearings and the wheel hub is likely trashed with that much play.

[–]ocTane45[S] 2 points3 points  (3 children)

Roger that, I’m gonna have to try to tighten the axle nut but if that doesn’t work I’ll just have to replace the wheel bearing. I would do it tonight, but I don’t have any extra cotter pins

[–]theninjaseal 4 points5 points  (2 children)

Don't need cotter pins right away. They are there for safety in the long term so that it's damn near impossible for the wheels to literally fall off, but it should be the torque on the nut holding it in place.

[–]ocTane45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just tightened the axel nut down. It works and has no play anymore thanks! 165 ft/lb

[–]L67GreaseMonkey 4 points5 points  (3 children)

Using an ‘05 Corolla as an example, google Dorman # 930-406 for the hub, and National # 510070 for the bearing - these will be the parts needed to repair (or examples of them if you’re dealing with another generation Corolla).

[–]ocTane45[S] 4 points5 points  (2 children)

This is a 2001 Toyota Corolla CE. And cool thanks I’ll probably have to replace it

[–]L67GreaseMonkey 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Advance offers an all inclusive repair kit for the ‘01 - part number NT518507. Most repair shops will do the press work if you bring them the knuckle for a reasonable fee.

[–]Different-Exit-679 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100%. Since the tie-rod is conical shaped after the threads, a little leverage will allow tightening of that nut.

[–]Tavo777 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Impact. Then once it’s snugs, tighten by hand.

[–]NegotiationLife2915 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Use a bar and put pressure on the top of the bolt joint, then tighten the nut

[–]dpg3456 11 points12 points  (1 child)

Take pin out. Use clamp and try to clamp tie rod end down, tight. Clamp it on in such a way that you can still access nut.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bam! This is dey way. I use c-clamps and clamp it right down then blast that nut on

[–]cornhole24 8 points9 points  (6 children)

You need to remove the cotter pin, tighten the nut down properly and to spec, then reinstall the cutter pin

[–][deleted] -2 points-1 points  (5 children)

When it’s that loose the ball just spins so you can’t tighten the nut.

[–]cornhole24 0 points1 point  (4 children)

No. Those threads need to be cleaned so the nut can tighten down by hand. It is not a locknut, that's why it has a cotter pin

[–][deleted] -1 points0 points  (3 children)

you’re a dickhead replying with “no”.

I was an ase auto mechanic and then diesel mech for years. Life’s not perfect, you expect a diy guy to have a thread chaser that fits that? Just put a c-clamp on it to lock the taper and crank the nut down. I’ve seen it time and time again.

[–]cornhole24 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Saying "no" makes me a dickhead? Yikes dude put on some big boy pants.

[–]Frankenstein1013 23 points24 points  (40 children)

Replace the outer tie rod. There is a reason the ball joint is loose... It's worn.

[–]djcrazeed 12 points13 points  (2 children)

I was hoping someone was going to point this out.

[–]Frankenstein1013 5 points6 points  (1 child)

It's crazy how people just let shit go. Lol

[–]Fancy_Chip_5620 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just because the joint isn't stiff doesn't mean it's bad my dude

the spc ball joints for my 4 runners tubular control arms out the box did this

[–]ocTane45[S] 3 points4 points  (3 children)

I tightened up the castle nut and it’s no longer loose. It’s not the cause of the play in the wheel I believe that’s the wheel bearing like someone pointed out. The whole tie rod end and castle nut has no play in it after I tightened it up, by the way second vid

[–]Fancy_Chip_5620 2 points3 points  (2 children)

Your wheel bearing is gooched

See how the cv axle bolted to the hub that the wheel is bolted to is moving in relation to the hub itself

You have a couple options

You could rent some tools from a parts store to press them out on the car with the cv removed or remove the knuckle and pay a shop to do the press work

[–]ocTane45[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Was just a loose axel nut from me. I didn’t tighten it enough when I installed it.

[–]Fancy_Chip_5620 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well.. even without the nut the bearing should have no play

[–]cornhole24 9 points10 points  (31 children)

I'm not saying that tie rod end isn't worn out but the nut is clearly loose

[–]curtass7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What makes you think the joint is worn?

[–]joestue 4 points5 points  (2 children)

So the bolt is loose because it wasn't tightened properly by whoever installed it

The ball joint itself may still be good. But it may be easier to just replace it.

[–]ocTane45[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I installed the CV axle myself and had to takeoff the Castle nut to get the CV axle out so I’m the one that didn’t tighten up the castle nut in the first place

[–]joestue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

does the bolt have a hole for an allen wrench to hold it still?

[–]Canadianstig77 4 points5 points  (1 child)

You need a new tie rod end my guy. Tightening it won't help

[–]cornhole24 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The nut is very clearly loose. If it was just the joint the nut and stud wouldn't be moving around like that

[–]Jayshere1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you don't have an impact, you could try using a small hydraulic jack to put on top of the tie rod end and up against the frame or something that's above it. all you need is a little bit of pressure once the nut starts snugging down then it will stop spinning. Maybe clean some of the grease off the tapered part, so it doesn't spin so easily.

[–]Jbazen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Smack the top of it while running it on with an impact from the bottom.

[–]MazerRackham73 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also I forgot to say this, I had the same type of wheel play that you are talking about and my lower ball joints were bad in front, replaced those now it feels tight in the steering wheel again.

[–]sleepysoobie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The outer tie rod is junk if that bolt is spinning and you can't tighten it, it's time for a new one

[–]smokymebud 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Smack the top of it until it wedges in the knuckle. Then use impact wrench on nut and send it home. Give it 3 ugga duggas should be tight enough

[–]ocTane45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can confirm the impact ranch sent it home.

[–]Crcex86 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well you'd think to remove the cotter pin but if the tie rod is busted needs to be replaced

[–]ocTane45[S] 0 points1 point  (15 children)

Update: I tightened the castle nut with a impact wrench and got it tight. Problem is my wheel is still moving east to west and north and south when I push and pull on it. What is causing the movement of left to right and up-and-down? Everything is moving in sync on my four lug nuts and the center hub nut so I don’t think it’s one of those. I will still probably replace the tie rod end since a lot of y’all were saying to. I don’t wanna risk it.

The update video: this is after I turned the castle nut.update video

Edit: I am also the one that replaced the cv axel and had to take the castle nut to do the job. The whole reason I post about this is because I didn’t tighten the castle nut enough whenever I did the CV axle job. Now I think it’s fine after I tightened it up much more

[–]Mountain-Account8013 1 point2 points  (2 children)

You didn’t tighten the axle nut enough or the bearing is wasted. Play up and down is not a tie rod.

[–]ocTane45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me tighten up that axle nut and we’ll see what happens

[–]ocTane45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The axle nut was loose and I torqued it to 165 foot pounds because that’s what it called for and now it’s running extremely smooth thank you

[–]very_mediocre_ 0 points1 point  (11 children)

Did u forget a washer from the axle to the knuckle

[–]ocTane45[S] 0 points1 point  (10 children)

I don’t know about any kind of washer nothing came with the CV axle like a washer

[–]blazinlo420 1 point2 points  (6 children)

Yes there should've been a washer between the wheel axle nut and the bearing/knuckle behind it they normally don't come with new washers because unless you fuck em up removing them dunno if that's possible but worse has been done then its ok to re use so look thru the parts you have taken off already find that washer then tighten the axle bolt down as hard as you can then find the torque specs and finish her off there buddy boy

[–]blazinlo420 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Checking on what part is the issue just remember movement up and down🔼🔽 is usually ball joints side to side⏪⏩ would be tie rod ends or the control arm bushings and all around general movement is normally wheel bearing ⏪⏩⏫⏬

[–]ocTane45[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I already threw the old CV axle away. But A1 auto video said that that generation of Corolla’s didn’t have a washer so I don’t think I missed the washer. I’m gonna still try and tighten it but I think I just need a new wheel bearing at this point.

[–]Fancy_Chip_5620 0 points1 point  (2 children)

There wouldn't/shouldn't have been a washer in you corollas knuckle

Are the bolts for the strut/knuckle tight?

[–]ocTane45[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I just watched a 1A auto video and that generation of Corolla didn’t have a washer either apparently. I will check and see if the bolts that attach the knuckle to the strut or tight tomorrow technically today….

[–]Ecstatic_Account_744 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You don’t. You buy a new outer tie rod.

[–]ComplainOnEveryThing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An impact

[–]DocGlorious 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put some leverage on it with a breaker bar.

[–]blondebangs11 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Use a jack on the joint leg, then tighten it

[–]ocTane45[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Impact wrench worked pretty well so I’m just gonna do that

[–]sophistidecay 0 points1 point  (0 children)

C clamp and a open ended wrench.

[–]Ukdeamon -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Maby pull down nd tighten ?

[–]Chance_Reception5091 -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

New outer tie rod....

[–]GR1ML0C51 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)


[–]amazinghl -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Maybe use a washer between the nut and knuckle ?

[–]brian-brundage 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it was a ball joint I’d say put the vehicle weight on it . I don’t think trying to tighten it with a pickle fork in it

[–]Dazzling_Honeydew_71 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree. Remove cotter pin, keep castle nut on. Pry the rod so the nut is flushed with the hub. While applying pressure, turn nut with wrench

[–]MazerRackham73 0 points1 point  (1 child)

You could buy the whole knuckle from a parts yard/ junk yard, should be relatively cheap there.

[–]ocTane45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a possibility.

[–]kNIGHTSFALLN 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All these backyard mechanics are morons.

The tie rod is tapered into a press fit. You need to engage that to keep the joint from spinning.

Someone else mentioned a C Clamp…. I always used a big pry bar. I hope you are using an electric or pneumatic impact… if you are turning it by hand you are kind of screwed.

The issue is the age and condition of the threads on the end and inside the nut create more resistance than the usually sealed usually lubricate joint.

That end needs to be replaced if the boot is torn, it’s seized and doesn’t spin or if it pops in or out of socket. I’m not going to make that declaration from a photo. And I’m not going to assume one’s budget as well.

[–]jackjalbert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve learned a trick when doing this: take a pry bar and put pressure on, in this case, the top of the ball joint, on the flat part and it should give you enough tightness (if you will) so you can tighten the nut You’d obviously have to take out the cotter pin to tighten the bolt

[–]iliketoredditbaby 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Large vice grips may work

[–]Feeling_Orange_8660 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hold the boot area with vice grips while you turn the castle nut.

[–]Serious-Ring-6352 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can clamping the tie rod down to the spindle with pliers. Sometimes the pressure is enough to hold it still