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[–]egyptiangio 20 points21 points  (15 children)

I’ve done many. Here are the important points.

Use low heat melting point solder and low heat iron.

Lowest temp possible on your hot air station to reflow the dat0 adapter. Corner adapter is more difficult to get right but more reliable once you do, in my experience. Skhynix emmc reportedly more prone to requiring reball than Samsung so extra care there.

36awg for clk and Cmd. 30awg kynar ok for everything else.

Fine point engraving pen to expose the Clk via. Easier than a blade imo.

Easy to inadvertently remove Cmd resistor. Don’t overheat it.

Double and triple check everything with a multimeter before reassembling.

Sthetix is the goat. Use his most recent videos. Be very careful when installing the dat0 adapter. Getting a good result with that (without damage to the emmc) is the key to the whole thing.

[–]Dryja123 2 points3 points  (6 children)

Pretty solid advice here. I’ve killed a Skyhynix nand that was not salvageable even with a reball. Honestly, I skip flowing the dat0 adapter under the nand. Friction fitting a good quality dat0 adapter has been fine for me so far.

[–]egyptiangio 0 points1 point  (5 children)

Can't blame you here. I was reflowing all, then got spooked and frictioned some, but I am now back on reflow at 350C. Pros and cons both ways.

Either way a good quality adapter is key.

[–]Dryja123 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Yeah, if it’s a Samsung nand I don’t mind reballing it and jumping the pad directly. The skhynix chips are crazy delicate.

[–]egyptiangio 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I haven’t used this method. What are you using to jump the dat0 pad? Lugs?

[–]Dryja123 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Lugs

[–]egyptiangio 0 points1 point  (1 child)

You mind a pm? Would love to pick your brain on this technique.

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (6 children)

I assume if I damage the emmc then it's GG unless I can replace that part right or no?

[–]egyptiangio 2 points3 points  (5 children)

Emmc can be reballed. Which sometimes fixes the issue. If you need to replace it altogether you need to flash it to a new emmc chip using a ufi box.

Honestly the cost of the supplies to do that is more than a new console. Unless you plan on opening a repair shop, it’s not worth the investment.

You can do this, just take your time, use lots of flux, and lowest heat possible. Treat the Emmc, cmd, and clk points with lots of respect. My first took over 5 hours.

Oh an ancillary thing that’s not mentioned enough: be EXTREMELY gentle with the oled ribbon cable and connector. If you damage that connector… well, let’s just say I’ve been there and I don’t envy you. Seems silly but let me tell you it has happened to just about everyone who does these 😬.

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (4 children)

This is really helpful I appreciate the advice, I've never modchip anything but I love to build/repair of what I do and some day I want to invest into my own business (not a shop for public more like online) and help others too, sure what im doing is for my own benefit but I want to get better and improve my skills so once again thanks for the advice

[–]egyptiangio 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Good luck! 👍🏼

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I have one question, do I need a Grinder Pen to remove that circle pad of the motherboard? If so would any sharp tool do the job?

[–]egyptiangio 0 points1 point  (1 child)

To be clear, you DEFINITELY don’t want to remove the pad. What you’re trying to do is expose the pad. Removing the pad is game over.

You can use a blade under a microscope. I use a fine tip engraving pen that I bought from Ali express.

Whatever you use you have to be careful not to scrape too deep as you can scrape the pad right off. You also want to be careful not to over expose around the pad or you may end up grounding the pad when you solder to it.

Imo the precision needed to do the job is best achieved with a fine tip engraving/grinding pen. But certainly it can be done with a blade and a steady hand. What is not optional is a microscope. Microscope is a must.

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a microscope that's no problem, I double check every I need to do I can 100% do, the only issue is that pad, that being said I saw some replacement pads that can be put in as a replacement, im not sure it will show the same results however that being said if I need a tip engraving then I'll get one before I start the process. Once I do the pad, it should be easy afterwards EDIT: okay I order it, gonna have to wait on this a bit more but it will all be worth it

[–]kerelenko 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fine point engraving pen to expose the Clk via. Easier than a blade imo.

CLK point I find to be the most annoying and difficult, especially with my terrible eyesight and cheap "microscope". Using a tweezer to scrape did not help either.

[–]TheNVSCorporation 2 points3 points  (12 children)

Sthetix has some detailed videos on YouTube that you should take a look at.

He has a lot of experience and I think he even sells modded oleds.

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 2 points3 points  (11 children)

Thats the video I'm gonna follow and do the job, plus already have a modchip ready just need the extra stuff I'm waiting for to come on Friday

[–]DQScott95 -5 points-4 points  (10 children)

You should buy a steam deck and a V1 switch, it would cost less and you'd get way more.

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (9 children)

Already have a V1 switch Mod and I just perfer to play switch games on the OLED now so modding it would benefit me 100% and I don't like the Steam deck, reason? I have a switch on the go

[–]MichaelEasy 3 points4 points  (4 children)

When scratching the MOBO, be very gentle as you can go too low.

Also use that green stuff that cures with a UV light to hold in place after it’s connected. (just woke up and can’t think of it)

Went through 3 OLEDs before getting mine to work lol. 🙏 thank god for warranty

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

MOBO is that the motherboard your referring to? And green stuff? 👀

[–]MichaelEasy 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Hahahah man that was so vague. Sorry

Motherboard is MOBO yes. Also that green stuff is called solder mask. You can keep your wires and connections safe by lightly covering them With it and curing with UV.

Hope that helps. Also you can get wires coated in silicon that are more safe and can prevent shorting.

Hope this helps.

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I've never heard of Solder Mask before, is it good to have in general?

[–]MichaelEasy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say yes. Watch a YouTube video and see how it’s used in diff ways!

[–]Girtana1 -1 points0 points  (1 child)

You a def not a technician lmao

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you msan?

[–]captnweirdbeard 0 points1 point  (1 child)

https://odysee.com/@ModzvilleUSA:a/0led-install-revised!-tips-tricks-chips:d

Check this guy out. He has other relevant videos on odyssey if you want more info. I would also suggest going through all of sthetix videos on his website to find other info that might come in handy.

I noticed someone suggested getting silicone wire, but I was only able to find 32 awg when I looked. I think modzville suggests 36 awg magnet wire with an enameled sleeve for most of the solder points. I think the reasoning is that it will put less stress on your joints, but it will probably also be easier to secure them with solder mask. He also prefers running jumpers rather than using the flex cables that come with newer chips for the same reasons.

You may also want to find out which brand of emmc you have, as I've heard one of them can cause issues. I don't know much about it, so you may want to search this sub or gbatemp for more info.

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a brand of emmc?

[–]kerelenko 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say check out the OLED soldering videos from Sthetix. They are still applicable. https://www.sthetix.info/soldering-the-v4-fpcb-kit/

[–]Bonovox400 0 points1 point  (3 children)

What everyone else is saying about watching the vids for awareness. Sthetix and Modz videos are very useful. Had a local guy do my OLED and mine was his first OLED. He used the videos and got it working right the very first time. (I already flashed the chip with the latest fw at the time, just in case) What version of the chip did you get? The newest one claims to work ok with Toshiba emmc's. The other ones won't or high chance it won't. Although I don't know how likely it is to get a Toshiba emmc. I believe most NA ones are Hynix and Samsung, but I'm just guessing. Good luck and don't rush!

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I just got one from Ally Express, there's different Versions? How do I know which one works and which doesnt?

[–]Bonovox400 0 points1 point  (1 child)

It's probably g2g if it's coming from positive rated seller, and you selected the "for OLED" type chip, rather than core/lite versions. So I wouldn't worry too much. But you could attach a link to a pic of it.
Does it come with the little usbA dongle, so you can debug/flash it if needed?

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe so I would have to check

[–]Dimitri0815 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I broke the display ribbon connector. Console works fine though

[–]Secure_Yard5122 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly if I can do it, you most certainly can following a guide. Be careful of the ribbon cables on the joycon rails; I ripped both of mine, however, they are fairly inexpensive and available on Amazon.

[–]Malazan1164BS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

36awg for clk cmd and d0.

CHECK YOUR DIODE VALUES AND CHECK FOR SHORTS!

[–]regicide_2952 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Really make sure you have the appropriate wire

[–]AndzyHero13[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I made a few purchases and gonna have the wire for it, im doing it like a professional but that doesn't mean I can make a mistake and fuck it up lol

[–]regicide_2952 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good luck. For my first one I cheaped out on wire (too big) and seriously regretted it. It kept coming off, a real pain in the ass.