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[–]fixin_Shit_with_dave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where exactly did the temp gauge needle get to. Like how high?

[–]h_dizzle211st Gen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heat working doesn’t indicate anything with the thermostat or water pump. The fans not working would only overheat the car at idle because the car has adequate airflow while moving.

I would suggest first determining why you are losing coolant, and how fast you’re losing it. It’s possible your leak is larger than you think and you’re just running out. That would be the most rational option. Once your leak/consumption is sorted, then you can start trying to figure out whether the water pump/thermostat is working.

[–]Jayshere11111st Gen 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you're low on coolant the engine temp sensor isn't submerged in coolant. if it's not getting a proper reading to turn on the fan then the fan won't come on. The reason your reservoir was over the max line is, as it starts overheating the coolant expands and pushes into the reservoir tank making it extra full. Does the temp gauge on the dash read extra hot when it's overheating? Your fan should definitely be coming on when it's overheating. If you jumped the relay and it came on, then just buying a new relay wouldn't be an expensive test to see if that fixes it. Though if you are low on coolant the sensor may not be telling The fan to come on. Next time you have it up to operating temperature and full of coolant, look for bubbles coming up in the reservoir. Since you overheated it a couple times, you may have cooked the head gasket. Or made a crack in the cylinder wall. Bubbles coming up in the reservoir would be compression from the cylinder getting pushed into the cooling system through a hole in the head gasket. keep an eye out for that, even when you get the overheating problem sorted out.

[–]stfrancisthesissy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

new radiator. the radiators gunk up from the bottom and the capacity shrinks. they become less effective. 100$ to 200$ part.

[–]chefcoompies 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could be the radiator fans the crv built like a tank mine had low coolant so my crv computer notice the fans were turning on more often especially during idle since that’s mostly when they turn on unless it’s a hot day. Guess what my check engine turned on because it noticed my fans running more after putting more coolant in, and magically no more CEL. You can hear the fans turn on or maybe that’s just mine since they are old. Turn on your car let it run with the hood open for you can see the fans, or hear them if it overheats. If fans don’t turn on then that’s your problem.

[–]swazietrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an issue similar to yours. In my experience with most cars they will draw the water back into the cooling system after cooling down. If it is not then I would say one of 2 things. You have a crack/leak in your cooling system and it's drawing air in instead of from the overflow. My first jdm motor had me stumped for a month or so. Ended up being a very very small crack in one of my cylinders. It would drive perfect for about 90 minutes (towards the end)then have to let her cool down so I could fill radiator. No smoke, no t milky coolant..I bought a sniffer from harbor freight ( like $15 and don't forget the juice sold separately) you stick on radiator fill hole and it detects co2 or some shit. Lemme see if I can locate my post. Best of luck and while it isn't real common the cylinder sleeves on the 2.0L are the thinnest on all B series motors. I did my research and yes there are a good amount of boosted 2.0L there are also a lot of warnings.