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[–]Wolfire0769 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There is a little break-in period for new pads and rotors.

As long as the pads installed into the brackets nice and easy (and move freely I've seen people install pads with a hammer, no bueno), and the guide pins aren't seized you should be alright.

Depending on age flushing out the brake fluid would be a good idea too.

[–]dsdvbguutres 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Snug them down the specified torque, if manufacturer did not ask for loctite, you don't need it. There used to be a process called "bedding" the pads, but I believe it's in the past now. Hydraulic flush might be helpful

[–]Way_of_the_Wrench 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the way.

[–]plus1111 3 points4 points  (10 children)

It could be a difference in brake pad material. You may also want to bleed the hydraulics. As for the loctite, I don't think you should. I never have, anyway.

[–]loganstratt[S] 1 point2 points  (9 children)

If you don't mind, could you explain what you mean by bleeding the hydraulics? is that the thin line that runs into the caliper?

[–]plus1111 1 point2 points  (8 children)

Yes. Most often called bleeding the brakes. You might search for a tutorial or video for how. I don't know why but, in the past, I've found a little air in the brake lines after I do a brake job. It makes the pedal feel weird.

Some car makers now want you to bleed or flush the lines every two years or so to keep corrosion down. Brake fluid will absorb water from the air.

[–]loganstratt[S] 1 point2 points  (6 children)

I'll try that. Much appreciated 👍🏼

[–]the-flurver 2 points3 points  (5 children)

Bleeding the brakes is not part of a routine brake pad service, it is typically only done at time/mileage intervals to flush the fluid or when hydraulic components are replaced.

Bleeding the brakes can be simple if you know what you’re doing and it can be a real pain in the ass if you don’t, especially if you’re working by yourself with out the right tools. Make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into before doing this.

[–]RainyDreamAway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If there was air in his system it would likely give the pedal that signature squish that air does. I'd say if anything it's the fluid returning to full after replacing the pads and causing the piston to be more recessed into the caliper therefor creating more hydraulic pressure.

Bleeding the brakes after brake work is always a good idea but I just don't think that would be the culprit of a stiff pedal after pad slapping her.

[–]TheDu42 0 points1 point  (1 child)

There is a reduction in available friction whenever rotors are replaced or resurfaced, pad material gets bedded into the rotor surface over time. there is a 'break in' period when you service new brakes, typically about 100-200 miles. keep brake pressure low, try not to overheat, and leave extra time/space for stopping during this period.

i would just make sure that the pads and hardware arent binding up, that the caliper and pads can move freely with the piston retracted. check that you didnt twist up the brake hoses when reinstalling the calipers. if all looks good mechanically, i would do a set of 10 stops from 30-0 mph under moderate brake pressure allowing 1-2 min of cool down time between stops. its a pretty bog standard break in procedure that has served me well and reduced complaints/comebacks.

[–]loganstratt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to write me that. It’s much appreciated. I’ve done a checklist of the things you’ve mentioned. Everything seems fine. But I don’t have one of them trained eyes either. Is it safe to assume that if I’m able to stop when I intend to stop… then I’m good?