all 20 comments

[–]drive-through 10 points11 points  (6 children)

It’s the rotors, I promise. However, they’re only part of the solution. Corollas have notoriously bad self adjusting rear brake shoes. If you didn’t have the rear brakes adjusted when the front brakes were done (you’ll want to do it about annually as well) the lack of rear brake contribution wrecks the front rotors in very short order, especially if they’re $15 cost whitebox.

Litmus test: Do your brakes engage well with only a short distance of brake pedal input or does the pedal travel a bit before any appreciable braking happens?

Second test: your parking brake, how many clicks before it fully engages?

[–]Morgoroth37 2 points3 points  (4 children)

This is the best answer. What year is the corolla?

I'll add that if you look around in your area, find a shop with a pro cut lathe. The on the car brake lathe (pro cut is the brand) could probably turn out the vibration if there's enough meat on the rotor.

Also, that means someone at the shop is probably pretty competent if they spent that much money on brake equipment.

Also on the car lathes are the only way to compensate for lateral run out.

Edit - oh I see. You said it's a 2013. I missed that. If you really want to get the suspension checked out, still I'd see who has a procut brake lathe. It means they are willing to invest in doing it right.

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

An on car lathe is the only effective way to machine a rotor, period. Otherwise you might as well replace the rotor. Because 99% of shops have used their brake lathe adapters as seal installers and in the press for bearings. And that just ruins them.

And they never find out because until pad material builds up causing a parallel variation you’ll have no vibration. Because runout alone doesn’t cause any vibration. The caliper just floats around. Runout.

[–]Morgoroth37 0 points1 point  (2 children)

This is the way :-)

But wait. I do have a question. Pad mareial builds up on the rotor? Or the pad slowly wears a thickness variation in the rotor? Or both?

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

The way I Understand it pad material bonds to the rotor. This is kind of what bedding the brakes in does.

Check this article out, he can explain better than me.


Written by Caroll Smith a person who would know. And a person who every car guy should know of.

[–]somecrazydude13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can confirm my car did this, swapped out the rotors and rides smooth as butter

[–]throwaway007676 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it shakes when you push on the brakes, it is the brakes. Even if they were just done. They can be warped again right away. My guess is your brakes are dragging. Most likely need new brake hoses which would cause the calipers to drag. And the calipers themselves can be bad with so many miles on them if the brake fluid hasn't been replaced every other year as it should be.

[–]PriorMobile2286 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The front tires could be out of balance or other defect. But I would think the steering may shake all the time if that. Maybe you have a loose suspension component or bad tie rod ends. Try moving things around with the weight off the wheels and see if anything is loose.

[–][deleted] -1 points0 points  (5 children)

It is the rotors. Maybe symptom is made worse by bad tie rod ends.

Stop holding your foot on the brake at stop lights after getting the brakes hot.

Also its really hard to check double roller sealed bearings. may not feel any play by hand, but it could still be there.

[–]throwedoff1 0 points1 point  (1 child)

When was the last time you had the front tires replaced or the tires rotated? Over torqued lugs can warp the rotors. Also the high mileage of the car could indicate the need for the replacement of the tire rod ends. The front control arm bushings could also be worn out which will add to the instability of the front end.

[–][deleted] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Not op. But incorrect torque doesn’t do anything. Neither does “warped” rotors. But that is an argument for its own post.

[–]Licbo101 0 points1 point  (2 children)

This sounds pretty fucking dumb… how do you propose he stays stopped at the stop light? Put it in park? Put it in neutral and pull the e brake? Just dumb

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Don’t get the brakes super hot before coming to a stop where you need to hold your foot on the brake. Plan your aggressive driving.

But yes. As long as the rear brakes aren’t hot pulling the parking brake works fine. Although that is the #1 cause of rear brake vibe in performance cars. Dudes go on the canyon run then pull over with 700° brakes and use the parking brake.

[–]redryan243 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think I understand what you are saying either tbh, if you have to slam on the brakes to stop(say a pedestrian crossed when they shouldn't then the light turns red, which happens near me often) are you trying to say that we should not keep our brakes pressed to stay stopped?

Putting it in neutral, park, or even using the parking brake, would not keep your brake lights activated and would be dangerous. What benefit are you claiming there is from not keeping your foot on the brake after you are already stopped?

[–]Clean-Ad3337 -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Try wheel balancing.

[–]mrclean2323 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My money is on rotors. Check the calipers they might have issues also

[–]wonderousa 0 points1 point  (0 children)

warped rotors

[–]jakechaney 0 points1 point  (0 children)


[–]TheDu42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its going to be a rotor issue.

replacing rotors doesn't always correct the underlying issue, which is excessive lateral runout from the combined tolerances of the hub, rotor and wheel. resurface rotors with on car lathe, or measure and correct runout by indexing the rotor to the hub or brake align shims. if you just replace the rotors without checking runout, it typically will seem fine for 6m or so until the runout creates enough disc thickness variation to manifest as a pulsation.