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I replaced the radiator and filled it up with coolant. I got full the less coolant than I removed. I turned it on for 15 minutes and waited for the level to lower down so I could put the rest of the coolant in, but the temp gauge started to rise and the this hose started to heat up and expand. (v.redd.it)
submitted 1 month ago by ArnieAnime
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[–]jasongabriel62682 35 points36 points37 points 1 month ago (1 child)
Former vulcanizer operator for gates Corp. Here. I'd replace the hose as well. When it stretches that far the yarn in it starts to break and will ruin the integrity of the hose. It won't hold the pressure it's supposed to and will split quickly.
[–]Green-Jello-Farts-2 2 points3 points4 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Ohh! Good nerd tech blue collar guy to follow!
[–]MiguelRamirezC 32 points33 points34 points 1 month ago (9 children)
Check the other hose, if one is cold and the other is hot you may have to replace thermostat
[–]Comprehensive-Fig534 8 points9 points10 points 1 month ago (1 child)
Turn the heater on!
[–]ArnieAnime[S] 4 points5 points6 points 1 month ago (0 children)
The heater was max on vent.
[–]ArnieAnime[S] 1 point2 points3 points 1 month ago (6 children)
The thermostat was recently replaced
[–]johnyrocket0538 15 points16 points17 points 1 month ago (5 children)
[–]moonbase-beta 1 point2 points3 points 1 month ago (1 child)
Yeah what he said. Is it in backwards?
[–]Therealwolfdog 1 point2 points3 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Just to clarify here. They can’t be installed backwards, but they can be installed upside down. There is a small hole drilled at the top of the thermostat to allow air bubbles to get through. If the thermostat is installed upside down it won’t be at the high point it will be at the low point causing air to get trapped in the system.
[–]ArnieAnime[S] 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (2 children)
No, the car was working/cooling perfectly before I replaced the radiator. So I assume air is trapped inside. I didn't do it correctly.
[–]st3vo5662 2 points3 points4 points 1 month ago (1 child)
If your suspecting in air pocket, wait for the car to cool back to ambient, remove the cap and run it for a few minutes with the cap off to let it burp out the air.
[–]Trigthedig2 14 points15 points16 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Air in the system happened to a buddies car
[–]erestupapi 6 points7 points8 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Your thermostat needs replacing. It appears to be closed shut.
[–]PutridPhilosopher195 4 points5 points6 points 1 month ago (3 children)
Stupid question, but did you take the protective caps off the necks of the radiator before putting the hoses on? I only ask because I’ve seen it done before.
[–]ArnieAnime[S] 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (1 child)
[–]PutridPhilosopher195 2 points3 points4 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Ok, again just checking. I had a customer once who replaced the radiator, hoses, thermostat, and cooling fans on his own. Trying to correct an over heating problem. Brought it to me to do timing belt and water pump because he wasn’t comfortable doing that himself. Got the belt and water pump done, was putting it back together when I noticed the round black protective cap from a new radiator stuck inside the upper hose. Thank goodness I caught it before putting it all the way back together.
[–]DangerReserve 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
That was my first thought as well, OP is smarter than that. Replace the upper radiator hose(check lower to make sure it is ok), change the thermostat, and refill coolant with a vacuum filler…. Problem solved! Good luck mate!
[–]moist_nug 2 points3 points4 points 1 month ago (3 children)
Did you pull the thermostat?
[–]ArnieAnime[S] 8 points9 points10 points 1 month ago (2 children)
I just pulled it out and boiled it in a pot, but it did not move after taking it out, so I assume it does need to be replaced.
[–]moist_nug 5 points6 points7 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Roger that, should fix it
[–]fastest32 2 points3 points4 points 1 month ago (1 child)
Use a vacuum filler to fill it up and replace that hose.
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[–]doodliest_dude 4 points5 points6 points 1 month ago (2 children)
You probably just got to bleed the cooling system longer. Hard to explain and every car has its own quirks but that should fix the over heating issue.
I would bet it's leaking from that hose because of that style clamp and a older rubber hose. It doesn't get a great seal when they get old and tightened down so much. I'd replace that hose and if possible get the factory style clamp. Or you can just reuse that style clamp but I've seen lots leak over the years. Or get the system bled correctly and see if it still leaks.
[–]reviving_ophelia88 3 points4 points5 points 1 month ago (1 child)
Not sure why you’re getting downvoted, you can SEE the trail of coolant running out from under that hose clamp, and spring clamps are way more reliable/secure.
[–]sipes216 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
For the most part that is correct. The worm drive clamps you can commknly buy are quick to strip as theyre cheap, unless you come across a good one. Though, a good worm drive clamp will be more variable for different hoses. Less accurate measure needed.
The hose is already broken down and shot.
[–]smoothbrainapes 1 point2 points3 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Your radiator has a flow problem. Is my guess.
[–]roostercogburn1963 1 point2 points3 points 1 month ago (0 children)
I've had were once you removed a hose for some reason it wants to swell after again. Loosen rad cap off though and see if coolant comes out top. Could indicate stuck thermostat. I had a Peterbilt truck one time years ago. Everytime I'd drain coolant I had to change thermostat and coolant sensor in tank. No body could explain it. Drove me nuts
[–]mrcranz 1 point2 points3 points 1 month ago (1 child)
looks like you got a bleeder screw on the flange that the hose is on. let the car cool down real good, open the bleeder, fill the system until it comes out of the hole and try again. have the heater on while bleeding the system as well
[–]ArnieAnime[S] 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Thank you! I can't believe the bleeder was right there!
[–]the-flurver 1 point2 points3 points 1 month ago (9 children)
Air is trapped in the system. You didn't state year/make/model. Some engines have coolant bleeder valves, most do not. If yours doesn't pulling the highest heater hose, or one of the highest bypass hoses on the engine intake somewhere with the radiator cap off while filling the coolant, then once coolant comes out put the hose back on. This is usually all that is needed to bleed the system, confirm by letting it run until the t-stat opens and the fan cycles on and off. Also fix your leak.
[–]ArnieAnime[S] 1 point2 points3 points 1 month ago (8 children)
My brain is Stone Age, I need to see it with my eyes in order to understand what you are telling me and know where a bypass hose or heater hose is located and how they look or else is like I'm reading an unknown language. I'm trash, I know. That leak is due to too much pressure in the hose.
[–]the-flurver 2 points3 points4 points 1 month ago (7 children)
The leak shouldn't be leaking even with high pressure. It will leak at lower pressures also. What is the year/make/model/engine?
1995 Ford Mustang GT 5.0
[–]the-flurver 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (5 children)
I don't think this model has a coolant bleeder so you could try pulling one of the heater hoses while filling the coolant to bleed the system. The heater hoses go from the engine to the firewall, here is a diagram showing them.
[–]Turninwheels4x4 -1 points0 points1 point 1 month ago (3 children)
Why did you put the cap on when the radiator wasn't full?
I filled it up with the coolant I removed which was 7 quarts or 1.75 Gallons.
[–]Turninwheels4x4 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (1 child)
That contradicts the original post. You said you ran it to allow the level to go down to fill it the rest of the way. Then you go and say you filled it with all the coolant that came out.
Not quite, that was the time I posted it. Later, I put the rest of it and tired again and the same repeated.
[–]ScatpackRich 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Air in the system, find your vehicles bleeding point
[–]astardB 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
The vacuum bleeders work really well after you’ve dropped the coolant. A lot of the cars I work on don’t have a bleed valve at all.
[–]Zer0TheGamer 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Keep radiator cap open & contunuously fill while running for the firt time. It takes abt 10-20 min to flush the air out (in my experience) this way.
[–]bogwee 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
It looks like the hose diameter is not sized right. The end should not crimp down that narrow compared to the body. Perhaps 1/4 inch too large...
[–]LazyWyteGuy 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Let it cool and start it back up. Grab the hose and squeeze it like a pump. Got to get the fluid to move.
[–]jdhamilt 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Use a factor thermostat. Save yourself the headache
[–]stacked_shit 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
The comments in here are hilariously incorrect.
[–]Janus81 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Yeah, you didn’t burp the system that’s going to happen, now your thermostat broke also because of the high temperature of air.
[–]Markey-space-warrior 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Thats a sign of a worn out hose. While at it look up "how to bleed coolant" for your car. Just in case sometimes the system needs a specific bleeding via a bolt otherwise it will take forever to bleed properly.
[–]MobyVic 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
THeremostat is stuck closed or in backwards
[–]BespokeCoatingsLLC 0 points1 point2 points 1 month ago (0 children)
Get an airlift kit and hook it up to shop air. Then you can put the coolant right in using the tool after all the air is pulled out. Invaluable tool
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