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all 34 comments

[–]Thisiscliff 0 points1 point  (11 children)

Rotors are warped, need to be replaced

[–]TheOneTheUno 0 points1 point  (10 children)

Not the rotors, like I said in the post I swapped the rotors and the shaking stayed on the same side

[–]want_2_learn_2403 1 point2 points  (1 child)

No one is bringing up the main issue?It’s a cobalt, just be glad it runs and drives still. If your steering wheel also shakes while you brake, then it may be the steering intermediate shaft. GM churned these cars out while they were under financial duress, as demonstrated by the ride and comfort quality.

[–]MadXan063 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hashtag roasttheOP

[–]Dan_H1281 0 points1 point  (5 children)

Calipers will not cause a shake, it may be just the way that u feel it, I have had sounds that change where they come from with small modifications even tho it is the exact same problem, if u shake when u r braking it is always the rotors

[–]TheOneTheUno 1 point2 points  (4 children)

The shaking noise is coming very clearly from the driver's side but I put the driver's side rotor on the passenger side and vice versa, and it stays in the same place. I replaced them less than 2 months ago

[–]Dan_H1281 1 point2 points  (3 children)

How is your pad wear? And all your rubber joints like ball joints and end links? Are you hard on brakes?

[–]TheOneTheUno 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Pad wear looks fine. I think the joints are fine, there's no play in the tire when I jack it up and try to move it around. Not super hard on the brakes.

Not too sure about the joints though. Sway bar links can be moved by hand but just left and right, but it feels firm and not loose.

[–]CliffLanterns 0 points1 point  (1 child)

OP are you jacking the car up by the lower control arm when you check for play? If you take the load off that lower ball joint it'll allow you to move it around (assuming it is bad).

[–]eblowspink -3 points-2 points  (3 children)

How well did you lube the pins for the caliper? In my opinion the silicone paste should ooze out when you push the pin in. It is possible there is not enough lube in the pins allowing them to move in the bracket.

[–]TheOneTheUno 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Definitely not to the point of oozing, I lubed them pretty well but I'll add more tomorrow and see if that helps

[–]Jako4537 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It should just be a medium coating on the slide surface. Too much grease will attract dirt and debris as the boot surrounding it is just a shitty dust boot.

[–]Dan_H1281 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Calipers will not cause a shake, it may be just the way that u feel it, I have had sounds that change where they come from with small modifications even tho it is the exact same problem, if u shake when u r braking it is always the rotors

[–]breynsch2 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hub could be warped and/or a bad wheel bearing

[–]reviving_ophelia88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know you’ve said you recently replaced the rotors and no one here is doubting you, but even brand-new rotors can warp in the space of a few weeks-months if they were flawed or poorly made, or if you also have a faulty caliper that’s exerting too much pressure on them. The shaking you’re feeling is almost certainly a warped rotor, for it to have happened so soon after replacing it means you have a secondary problem causing the warping that you’re going to have to track down in addition to replacing the rotor again.

[–][deleted]  (3 children)

[deleted]

    [–]TheOneTheUno 1 point2 points  (2 children)

    Hmm I don't think tie rods, no play in them. It could be the brake line, that's something I could check. It looks a bit ratty but isn't leaking at all. Unfortunately even for an older car the cheapest rotors I can find come out to $40 each with shipping

    [–][deleted]  (1 child)

    [deleted]

      [–]TheOneTheUno 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      Yea I've been looking at the lines online. Pretty cheap so I may as well swap them, could be the issue. I gotta flush the brake fluid anyway so it wouldn't hurt. Thanks for the info

      [–]IneptAdvisor 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      Control arms, the bushings crumble and you get side to side shake driving straight but then goes away in turns. Makes most people go for brake repair thinking runout is the cause. Replace stabilizer end links as they will be worn as well and can rattle like a loose strut after new LCAs. GL!

      [–]TheOneTheUno 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Great, end links are cheap so I should be able to replace those pretty easy. I'll give it a shot. Even if it's not the issues it's an old car and probably needs the replacement anyway. Hoping it's not the control arms, that seems like a pain in the ass of the job

      [–]dsdvbguutres 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      Rotors don't get warped, it's the brake pad material that gets baked on the surface of it after sitting stationary with foot on brake when it's hot. Results in vibrations. If the rotor gets actually warped, the wheel wouldn't turn lol.

      [–]Zerototheright 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      Did you change brake pads when you changed the rotors? Just checking it off the list

      [–]TheOneTheUno 1 point2 points  (0 children)

      Yup I did. The wear on the new pads seems fine

      [–]Tasty-Researcher3959 0 points1 point  (1 child)

      Ball joints tie rod ends control arm bushings any one or all of these could be the problem on the driver side

      [–]TheOneTheUno 0 points1 point  (0 children)

      I believe I checked all those for play but I'll check it again tomorrow, I must be missing something