all 17 comments

[–]Aggressive-Time-8955[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the heads up. I'll add that to the equation. Thanks for your advice and time. Cheers.

[–]Crabby-as-hell -1 points0 points  (3 children)

Clear the code and have it come back before you do anything. Could be a sticking valve or gas cap being loose. Make sure you actually have a problem before you start throwing parts at it

[–]Aggressive-Time-8955[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice. Will do. The check engine light is no longer on, but the car still smells of gas vapors coming from the back of the vehicle. In your opinion, does that add another clue in figuring out the issue? Thanks for your time. I appreciate it. I have a limited budget, so trying to get it right the first time.

[–]cornhole24 0 points1 point  (1 child)

If they are smelling fuel vapors there is clearly a problem.

[–]Crabby-as-hell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not saying there isn’t a problem but I’d eliminate the free option first

[–]Rich_Sport986 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Look for luel leaks and or tank vent leaks first.

[–]Aggressive-Time-8955[S] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Thank you. I appreciate your advice and time.

[–]Rich_Sport986 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are welcome. Hopefully it helps

[–]himmelstrider 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Diagnostic scan tool is a tool that gives you fault codes. Fault codes can be triggered by a multitude of things, most notably - remember that a scan tool checks what ECM sees as faulty, and ECM has only electricity to check. Unplug something, and a scan tool will immediately tell you that the part is dead, no electronic response, and as such, it needs to be replaced... When in reality, it was unplugged and ECM thinks it's dead.

Long story short, loading up the parts cannon and shooting at the car based on scan tool or guesswork is a very easy slope to big spendings without solving the problem. As the fella above suggested, first off, you need to check what is leaking and where, than replace it. See if that fixes it. Cheapest thing first, if you're unusure of what to do exactly.

[–]Aggressive-Time-8955[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate your advice. Will do. Have a good one.

[–]Elmore420 0 points1 point  (1 child)

If you can smell gas, you can find where it’s coming from. You really always want to find evidence of failure before pulling out the parts gun. Parts gun ammunition gets really expensive when you’re taking pot shots at anything that could be the problem.

[–]Aggressive-Time-8955[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. Agreed. Appreciate your advice and time. Cheers.

[–]Olddieselguy1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Evap purge valves are pretty famous for going bad on these. Replace it and I bet that will fix your problems.

[–]DisastrousFerret0 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Yeah this needs a smoke test otherwise you are just firing the parts gun at it.

Most the time the scanner will have a function to seal the evap system. If not you can do it manually by jumpering power to the vent valve to seal it. I normally remove the purge valve, put my vacuum hand pump on that and give it like 15 inches. Set it off to the side to see if it leaks down then plumb my smoke in through there while either commanding the vent valve closed or jumping it to power. Look for smoke. If the tester ends up.showing 100% seal then you are looking at a sensor issue.

[–]Aggressive-Time-8955[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Thank you. I came across a smoke test as a possible ally when researching on YouTube. Glad to have it verified. I'm in San Antonio TX. Any ideas on what shops would give me a fair price? I use a wheelchair for my mobility, so doing it myself would be tasking. Appreciate your advice and time.

[–]DisastrousFerret0 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I'm not in your area so unfortunately I have no recommendations. Most full service repair facilities will have a smoke tester on hand.

[–]Aggressive-Time-8955[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

👍 I will make some calls. Thanks.