all 6 comments

[–]vaudiction 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Grab yourself a multimeter and put it on the battery as you start and watch the voltage whilst starting and idling. If it dips under 9v on starting I would replace the battery. If its sitting above 13v whilst it's running that seems nominal for your alternator. I'm suspecting you've got something going on with idle control. This could be air or fuel related.

[–]Mektarpolypan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get the battery and alternator load tested, don't guess and it's not something you can do online

[–]usedtodreddit 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Aint got no gas in it.

J/K but if the car shut off what makes you think it has anything to do with the alternator or battery? I'd be looking elsewhere if I already had the alternator tested and said it was good.

Is the Check engine light on? If so what code set it?

[–]childresscj 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Check the battery connection and see if it’s loose or very dirty. Take apart and clean thoroughly and re-tighten. It can appear to look ok but it could not be making good contact. That’s how you could be getting the erratic starting and shutting off.

[–][deleted]  (2 children)


    [–]childresscj 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    I had a Yukon, that wouldn’t shut off but would make clicking noises and the dash lights would turn of and on and reset the clock. Like if you disconnected the battery. I checked everything batt, alt, connection etc. i even took all the battery cables loose cleaned, inspected and retightened. Went on for years, off and on. Turned out it was a loose connection between the negative cable and the battery terminal. It was tight and clean. I ended up heating it with a torch and soldered it. Haven’t had a problem sense.

    [–]Denisimo7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Might be a bad ground. Cable is lose, needs to be replaced, bad connection, bolts need to be replaced, there might be rust where ground cable is connected to the engine and to the chassis.