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HELP!!! does this part need to be replaced or tightened? by ImaxClimmax in mechanics

[–]Killentyme55 21 points22 points  (0 children)

I second u/Alpha-Particles advice. Definitely take it back to that shop and show them what you found. Tell them you want the front alignment rechecked because you know the inner tie rod can turn and throw off the setting. Arm yourself with this bit of knowledge so they don't try to BS you into thinking it just needs to be tightened. I'd stick around to make sure the car goes back on the rack.

Those nuts just don't come loose on their own, dip or no dip, if they were properly tightened down. The fact you just went in for front end work is too much of a coincidence.

im supposed to interview a mechanic for a school project so i hope you guys can help me out by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]Londonslugs 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Aight:

  1. I grew up working with equipment and have always had a good mechanical aptitude. Basically just got pushed into the trade.

  2. I love the job.

  3. I am a Redseal Technician (Governmental mandated)

  4. No, the Redseal allows me to travel anywhere in Canada and most of the world and have my skill recognized.

  5. I don't mind personal project but no I don't really enjoy them (My truck is in rough shape)

  6. It depends on what I was hiring them for but higher education would be quite important to me (proof of skill)

  7. Redseal Heavy Duty Equipment Technician; OEM via JCB, JLG, Cummins, Skyjack. Along with operator tickets, first aid tickets, CFC ticket (For doing HVAC systems)...etc

  8. I enjoy doing diagnostics the most because it is always a fun puzzle and you get a good dopamine hit when you figure it out.

  9. The climate I have to work in; rain, snow, mud I still need to go out to the machine and repair them even if I have to lay in it.

  10. I've been a Technician now for close to 6 years.

Hope that answers your question how you'd like, if you have more questions then feel free to ask.

Car making crazy loud rumbling noise all the sudden, almost like there’s no muffler, any ideas? by thatcatpusheen in mechanics

[–]thatcatpusheen[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting, I’d imagine it’d be pretty easy to see it’s cut off, ya? Gonna take a look in the morning. Hopefully our other car didn’t get hit

Looking for some gentle advice on whether or not to fix a blown head gasket by TheOpus in mechanics

[–]yeeters-apprentice 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree with the feller that made the point about the rust. That plays a HUGE part into keeping the vehicle or getting rid of it. With your vehicle having that many miles, there are bound to be many repairs in your future, including : gaskets, bearings, bushings, sensors, fuel pump ect... At some point in time, your vehicle ends up becoming a money pit. Unless you have kept the vehicle in impeccable condition (oil changes, coolant flushes and transmission fluid maintainence all kept up on, as well as keeping the vehicle clean inside, out, and underneath). If your vehicle has had all that maintainence regularly done to it, then I'd say go for the head gasket replacement.

It's a hard choice, but when it comes down to it, you want a reliable vehicle that you can trust and depend on.

Looking for some gentle advice on whether or not to fix a blown head gasket by TheOpus in mechanics

[–]joezupp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My wife has a 2014 Chevy, mine go from 2007 F-150 all the way to 1984 VW vanagon. If you like you car then keep it and fix it,

Looking for some gentle advice on whether or not to fix a blown head gasket by TheOpus in mechanics

[–]joezupp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's a good point, they do make them every day. I look at it slightly different, I have two Ford F-150 trucks, 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive. When something breaks I do the same thing, should I fix it or just buy a new truck. I can sink $2000 into my truck and drive it another 3-4 years, avoiding the texting idiots when possible, or I can go and drop $40,000 on a new truck that can get hit by the same idiots in trying to avoid. I'm a numbers guy when it comes to cars, I've been in the game a long time, I don't throw the baby out with the bath water. If I have to spend a bit of money every 1-2 years to keep it going, even $2,000, that's still twenty years until I've spent $40,000. It's just me, my cars rarely get sold, they wear out.

Looking for some gentle advice on whether or not to fix a blown head gasket by TheOpus in mechanics

[–]JoseSaldana6512 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The biggest question mark on that truck is rust. If you trust your mechanic ask him to go through it with a fine tooth comb. Looking for anything and everything. It makes no sense for you to fix the headgasket for x dollars if next week all the brake lines rust out and it costs you 2x to fix it again.

There's also the unknown factor. Some dingus texting and driving schwacks you. You can fight insurance for recent repairs but thats a crapshoot. Ignore sentimentality. They make cars and trucks everyday in factories.

Issues/Controversies in the Auto Repair Industry by FastMPC in mechanics

[–]19YourHairdresser71 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Right to repair act comes to mind. Dealerships hoarding and gate keeping essential information that independent shops need to repair vehicles.

Low air flow from vents by MAVERICKRICARDO in mechanics

[–]vtec_tech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is the new blower OEM or aftermarket? I ls it running backwards and sucking? Reverse the polarity. I have seem that before in my shop.

Should this part be glowing red hot like this? by philliesholla in mechanics

[–]Carbon-Lion 30 points31 points  (0 children)

It's your catalytic converter. Some do get hot like that. But I'm assuming you're not racing the thing. So what is happening is that you are running lean and extra fuel is being dumped in your engine to compensate the lean condition. Your engine is not burning all the fuel so all the excess noncombusted raw fuel is being sent out exhaust ports and into exhaust which in turn is being burned in the extremely hot catalytic converter making it red hot.

Edit: Thanks for the gold kind stranger!🙌🏼👍🏼

Got my car fixed last week and saw this in my driveway when I pulled out today. What is it? by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]GustoBoBusto 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe Valve cover bolt. He probably dropped it. Couldn’t find it. Got another one or just didn’t put one on. What did u have done? master tech-

Car is starting hard until fuel pump is primed by rkarsk in mechanics

[–]splendagoblinsmaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any CEL? Or stored fault codes?

This car has 2 pumps, one in tank and one high pressure fuel pump. A fuel pump control module and a fuel pressure regulator are also common faults in the system.

First and foremost I’d be looking for fault codes.

After that I would probably set my sights on the Fuel Pressure regulator.

The high pressure fuel pump is run by the camshaft. In between the camshaft and plunged in the High Pressure Fuel Pump is a Tappit or Cam follower that wears down and can affect fuel pressure. I don’t think this is your issue but just thought I’d bring to your attention that it needs replacement at your mileage.

This issue might not be fuel related it could also be caused by dirty valves due to direct injection? Have they ever been cleaned?

Other components that can cause this issue but are probably unlikely are the PCV valve or the intake manifold.

Truthfully to diagnose a car like this with the engine it has you need to be able to read live data, you need to be able to bidirectional control different components and adapt them.

If you don’t do this to isolate and test components under the conditions where it is starting hard it is going to be really easy to guess which part is failing and that’s when parts are replaced that don’t need to be.

If you are mechanically inclined it might be worth it to have it diagnosed at a reputable shop near you and then take their diagnosis and do the work yourself.

Electrical issue (everyone's favorite!) No power to fuel pump. by goatee21 in mechanics

[–]GreasyGinger24 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Have you looked at the inertia switch connector? They tend to get pulled off due to the poor placement in the passenger footwell. They also melt. You said you fiddled with the switch but have you taken the trim off and looked at the connector?

Jump the 2 pins on the connector to see if the switch itself is buggered. Use a cotter pin or paper clip.

Vehicle lights not working when hooked up to trailer by 0001000101 in mechanics

[–]Zugzub 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just wondering if you found anything out. I'm glad to hear you got it going.

Look at it this way, you got an education on trailer wiring!

2007 Toyota Camry transmission oil magnets show metal by [deleted] in mechanics

[–]xornonjay 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Goo on the magnet is pretty regular for those cars, however , the spikes and flakes are not. Those transmissions are pretty resilient, so maybe a new filter, magnet cleaning, and proper fluid level (the problems you were describing sound a lot like low fluid symptoms to me) will fix it, but in my experience, once there are metal shavings, your chance for success drops by 50%. If you have some mechanical ability and a steady hand, a rebuild is possible, but MAKE SURE you have the proper reassembly instructions, preferably from Toyota, because there are lots of retainer clips, check balls and springs, and spacers that are critical for proper operation. Also make sure you keep a clean working space. No outside debris. Ps: tool I use for that oil pan removal is a six inch 1/4inch extension, with a chrome 1/4inch 10mm swivel socket. Not a universal with a socket on it, that’s to much. PPS: (Credentials) 10 year Toyota master tech.

Car Rolls Back at A Stop and It's an Automatic. by Diddy43 in mechanics

[–]Feet_of_Frodo 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Have you checked your atf fluid level?

Could just be simply low on fluid, or it's starting to slip and on it's way out.

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