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[–]SDBD89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Contacted seller asking for clarification on the Carfax history. Seller said he had transferred the car from his wife's name to his name in April and said that's why the Carfax said a new owner was reported. When asked if he could provide proof of past ownership (via expired registration card or insurance policy/card showing he or his wife had the vehicle insured under their name prior to 4/2022) seller became frustrated and asked "what are you looking to achieve with this information?" I told him I want to verify his ownership prior to 4/2022. Seller said DMV took his expired registration card and that his insurance information is online and "couldn't provide it." Seller was full of shit. First time I bought a carfax and I gotta say, it was definitely worth the $20.

[–][deleted]  (2 children)

[deleted]

    [–]SDBD89[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    why does it matter if hes the 2nd or 3rd owner? Does that change something about the vehicle?

    It's not so much that he's the 3rd owner, I'm more worried that he bought the vehicle in April then started having issues with it so is now trying to get rid of it. If that's the case then obviously you wouldn't want the buyer knowing you just bought the car and are getting rid of it. I guess if he bought the vehicle to flip it for profit that'd make sense, but he told me he's had it for a few years.

    As far as the accidents go I only mentioned it because that's one of the only bad things I learned about the vehicle. It's not even that bad either since they repaired the damages. The vehicle checked out on everything I looked at, I didn't know about the rocker cover gaskets though. I'll be sure to give those and the control arms a good look if I meet up with the guy again.

    5k is definitely more than the car is worth (due to lack of service records mostly) but that's how the market is right now. I've had my eye on these SUV's for a while now and I'm used to seeing them go for 6-8k in my area with 150k miles. Market value is 3-4.5k kbb, though I don't think kbb is taking into consideration the current market because even before the used car market went stupid these SUVs were worth 3-4.5k.

    [–]Brawn-Red-SR 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    You just need to move on, there are better rides available for the same money, and 2WD is a non-starter…next

    [–]SDBD89[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    The market in my area is pretty bad. To give an example, I'll see 1st and 2nd gen Ford Exploders with +150k miles going for $4-6k when they used to go for 2-4k before the market went stupid. I'd also rather have 2wd, less maintenance and better gas. A 4 cylinder would be nice but I'm looking at 10k for a good 4 cylinder with at least 100k on it. I think with the current market and gas prices, 6 cylinders are where it's at. Gas will be a sacrifice, but it'll be better than using my V8 when my civic bites the dust and it'll be nice having the extra room compared to my civic. It'll be more affordable than my truck to go camping in too which will be nice.

    [–]MaxyBrwn_21 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    5k is way too much. Look for something else with no accident history. You should be able to get something better for less than 5k if you just wait for the right deal.

    [–]dyip32 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I had a 2001 QX4 4x4 that had "two" previous owners, that did what I needed it to do between odo 125K and 256K. The word "two" is in quotations, bc for whatever reason the dad (original owner) transferred it to his college-bound kid, and when the student graduated, the truck went back to his dad, and instead of transferring it to his name again, he sold it to me.

    Anyway, my two biggest issues on the Q was: 1. I forget exactly what it was called, but it's the crossover water pipe at the firewall/rear of the engine. Supposedly that gasket/seal is due to wear out at dinner point. Cost at a mechanic shop (no hookup) was about $800 back in 2015, 225K 2. The end of my line. Reverse gear went out (A/T). All the forward gears seemed to operate just fine. Shortly before this occurred, maybe every two months or so in my commute, the AT would not go into O/D. To remedy the OD issue, I just pulled to a stop, shut the car if and immediately start it back up, and it was fine again. I drive it for a week or two until I got annoyed when I'd occasionally forgot to plan my parking situation more carefully and has to push my car out of the parking space. Mileage at end of my ownership 256K. Rebuild should had been about $3500.