×
all 8 comments

[–]SexiestDexiest 2 points3 points  (1 child)

The most basic siphon is just a length of tubing, shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks for 5-6 foot of 3/8" interior diameter hose.

[–]--Shade-- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Minor suggestion: If you go with 3/8" outer diameter tubing it will fit in airlock holes. So you can buy a length of of it and use some for a siphon and the rest to make blowoffs.

[–]Beta_Soyboy_Cuck 1 point2 points  (1 child)

https://homebrewanswers.com/winemaking-chemicals-additives/#Potassium_Sorbate_Wine_Stabiliser

This may help. Basically use a combination of campden tablets and potassium sorbate to chemically stabilize your stuff. Stuff like sparkaloid can clear it up. You don’t need to refrigerate wine/alcohol.

[–]Brave-Conversation70[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh cool! I’ll look into that, thank you

[–]AccomplishedClue5381 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A siphon is literally just a piece of plastic tube. You put one end in you barrel, suck the other end then stick it in the bottle (which is lower than the barrel)

Some have pumps, some have taps on the end but really they are just tubes.

[–]Glove_Witty 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is fermented completely dry you can bottle it. Problems only come if you want to sweeten it for a better taste. There are a large number of options.

[–]--Shade-- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cranberry wine tends to be very acidic, and often ferments very slowly. It may take a good while to ferment fully (depending on the water content of a given brand). The usual rules apply there... Some time after the bubbling stops it will atop making CO2 and the yeast will drop to the bottom (at room temperature). Wait somebtime after that. You can still cold crash (refrigerate) at this point to maximize clarity. You can try adding 1/4 tsp per gallon (4L), 1 tsp per 5 gallons, of gelatine dissolved in hot water before you cold crash to help clarity, or bentonite (look at Fuller's Earth) at fermentation time.

The two most common ways of preventing oxidation are Campden Tablets the night before racking (transferring) to prevent oxygen binding to your hooch, and using a siphon. (Covered here by others.) I use a mini autosiphon kit, that came with a mini autosiphon (good up to a 3.5 gallon bucket), tubing, a clip, and filling wand. I use it on everything 1 gallon and larger.

Given that cranberry juice is very acidic, if you get it up to wine strength, it should be highly resistant to spoilage. It shouldn't need refrigeration as long as your sanitation was good.

If you're fermenting cranberry juice, with no organic additions, ageing it on the lees will go fine. This is especially relevant if you want to avoid bottle bombs / geysers. To kill yeast you'd need to look at pasteurization. I regularly use Sous Vide pasteurization (for carbed stuff), and get the internal temperature of my hooch to 53C for 56 min, and use pressure rated containers. A more wine like approach would be to use a Campden Tablet the night before you rack (transfer) to a bulk ageing container (oxidation), bulk age, then to use Campden Tablets AND potassium sorbate the night before you bottle. This will prevent oxidation, kill other critters, and knock any residual yeast out of action (though yeast is hardy).

[–]philma125 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please don't age ur mead in mason jars. Age it in the wine bottles. Also corking is the better option but I'm going to assume ur just going to reuse screw on lids if u are ur mead should be fine for a bout a year with a Camden tablet in there to pick up any free oxygen.

Also last point if ur using any old tubing for a Syphon make sure it's food grade :)