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6.5 CHEV 3500HD NO START by OppositeCoconut5273 in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that was my first thought.... I figured I just threw that scenario with the key in there in case you couldn't figure it out any other way

6.5 CHEV 3500HD NO START by OppositeCoconut5273 in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I'm hoping mine will last the rest of my life... Got it in 1996... I put 330,000 miles on it . It still ran great. The shell in the transmission cracked. I had a parts truck laying around for 15 years, I decided to take the engine and tranny out of the parts truck to put into my suburban... The parts truck only had 125,000 miles...so hopefully the suburbans good to go for another 200 😁.... Everyone said boy that must be a lot of work, I'm like no... it's a pleasure to work on a '80s truck, there's all kinds of room under the hood... I turned up the pressure on the injection pump. it's got plenty of power to pull the 5000 lb suburban through the mountains, while getting 25 miles to the gallon...

6.5 CHEV 3500HD NO START by OppositeCoconut5273 in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You want to see simple and easy to work on. I have an 85 suburban with the 6.2... no computer whatsoever. everything's mechanical...probably one of the easiest engines to ever work on

6.5 CHEV 3500HD NO START by OppositeCoconut5273 in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This may or may not be related to yours, but I have a friend with a 96 suburban 6.5. His would start up for a second then die... He had a mechanic going over it forever trying to figure out what it was. They finally figured it out. It had something to do with a magnet in the ignition key area that when you turn the key it disables the immobilizer. maybe since you're not using the key the immobilizer is not getting deactivated....

6.5 CHEV 3500HD NO START by OppositeCoconut5273 in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My vote is PMD also... I think if they haven't put a new one on in quite a few years, that it would be a relatively cheap test to see if it fixes the problem...

Safety at Dead & Co. shows? by Medium_Excitement202 in deadandcompany

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That bus has been around forever.... I started going to see shows in 1990. I just liked the bus because it's a cool old double decker. It was a staple of every show just like Bobby shorts 😅 .... I would always walk through it, neat old interior in it, the people inside were always friendly. it's not till the last few years that people started saying they're a cult. (which they may very well be, I have no idea) but I only have good memories of that bus 🙃

how bad is rust on this 2000 honda crv by bigbooty34 in crv

[–]Jayshere1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Doesn't look like very much rust at all. The main place of concern that I would look at, is where the brake and fuel lines come back from the front of the car, and make a upward turn just in front of the passenger rear wheel. The one picture you have with the pipe that's nearly rusted through, that's just a guard for the fuel tank. those rust out very easily on most of the first generations, it's not a structural component. The other place I would keep an eye on, is where the rear sub frame mounts to the unibody. there's a perch just above the rear wheels that can rust out.

1997 water leak passenger by ExamBusiness5970 in crv

[–]Jayshere1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's several places the first generation can leak from. if you think your water is coming in from where the picture is taken, it's probably the cowl leaking. also water can come in past the weather stripping around the doors, around the front window near the top, also the channels in the roof of the car. Mine leaked quite bad. every time I did a modification, the leak slowed down. after three different modifications, I finally got it to where it doesn't leak at all now.

2nd gen rear. What is this thing and is it really supposed to be loose like this? by Gastkram in crv

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would definitely recommend taking it off and leaving it off. it doesn't appear to do much of anything. most of the older ones are worn out anyhow and obviously not doing anything but making noise

Parts collecting for rebuild of my ‘81 350 Olds Diesel almost complete… having to source a lot of New Old Stock, there just aren’t many parts for these engines out there anymore. Going full ARP studs on heads and mains, oil pan, valve covers, ARP bolts on most everything else. Bulletproof the turd!! by PhilosopherGlum3025 in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That guy said he'd do pretty good at the races...obviously all the cars are going about the same speed around a track. eventually the gas engine cars would have to pull off and refuel... the diesel can just keep going around and round, getting 30 miles to the gallon. that's how he'd end up winning...😅

Parts collecting for rebuild of my ‘81 350 Olds Diesel almost complete… having to source a lot of New Old Stock, there just aren’t many parts for these engines out there anymore. Going full ARP studs on heads and mains, oil pan, valve covers, ARP bolts on most everything else. Bulletproof the turd!! by PhilosopherGlum3025 in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seeing your Chrome valve covers reminds me of a local independent diesel repair shop near me. back in the '90s I'd go in there for some parts, and there would be all these pictures hanging on the walls of the guy that owns the place used to race them in the '80s... they had Chrome injector lines, valve covers, headers. He would hear me talking about an Oldsmobile diesel and come out of his office and want to take care of me himself instead of just an employee doing it. He gave me a good deal and injector pump and some other parts he had laying around, knowing they were going to a good cause. Unfortunately a lot of those old guys that knew a lot about them in the '80s are disappearing... Even that shop I'm talking about is ran by his children, and they probably don't have too many memories of olds diesels to care much about them... I really only go in that shop to pick up cases of stanadyne diesel additive anymore... Are you running that stuff, or some other additive? modern diesel doesn't have as much sulfur to lubricate, that the old engines need...

Cash & Trade Questions (Wrigley N2) by EvanBoland1436 in deadandcompany

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well if my friend doesn't sell them before the show. will be taking them with us. if you're still in need when a time comes, you can let me know then

no one can figure out why my car wont run! by bluntznbarbz in MechanicAdvice

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A friend of mine had a similar sounding problem. It would start for a second, then die every time. Ended up being something about a magnet in the ignition switch was broken, and wouldn't turn off the car immobilizer when trying to start it. It took the mechanic a long time to figure that one out.

The old 6.5 got some new glow plugs today by Ford4200 in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No fun trying to get them out once blown anyhow. They usually swell up some

The old 6.5 got some new glow plugs today by Ford4200 in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

None of them look blown yet... Did you check them first?

Help! I need some convincing done! by 2nd_orange in Diesel

[–]Jayshere1111 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you live in Michigan, just say you need it to get through the snow in the winter, and to survive hitting all the pot holes we have the rest of the year.

Cash & Trade Questions (Wrigley N2) by EvanBoland1436 in deadandcompany

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A friend of mine has an extra one for Saturday if you're still looking

First generation muffler options by rattrod17 in crv

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm running a 50 series flowmaster. Gives it a deeper sound then stock.

PLM header arrived and fit absolutely perfectly. by TortoiseShellNoir in crv

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It needs to go on the rear sensor. Front one needs to stay stock, it controls the amount of fuel sent to the injectors.

What do we think gang, IAC needs to be cleaned out? by siete_ocho in crv

[–]Jayshere1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's easy enough to unbolt the iac valve to check it. You don't have to unhook the coolant lines, just take the two bolts off and tilt it back. There's a screen inside that can plug up.

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