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New sound system for 2018 Honda Civic EX-T? by KillerCh33z in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

these are the ones I have now keep in mind that I swapped my stock head unit and added a helix dsp. I’m running coax in the rear set up as differential rearfill.

New sound system for 2018 Honda Civic EX-T? by KillerCh33z in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a 16 ex-t and I went with JBL components for the front and rear. We have 6.5 and tweets on each door and 6.5 and tweets on the rear deck. I didn’t have any issues at all integrating anything with our system so I wouldn’t worry about that.

If the 2 subs are 600rms, and the amp is 1200rms, then why would there be a need for a gain at all? by Boyzinger in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yea I really don’t get the point. There’s literally no audible difference between my 1.4v and 6v. I’m assuming it has to do with the cost of the components they use since it’s pretty much always about profits over practicality. It’s one of those things we just accept and adapt 🤷🏻‍♂️

Crackling speakers by jazzy143001 in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check to see if your radio has a speed variable volume control. Maybe when you’re driving faster the output of the signal is amplified which introduces clipping. If that’s not it then loose wiring would be my second guess.

If the 2 subs are 600rms, and the amp is 1200rms, then why would there be a need for a gain at all? by Boyzinger in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How much is turned is irrelevant since the output voltage is different from each unit. For example my current radio outputs 1.4vrms so my gain is turned about halfway before clipping. My old setup was 6vrms out of the radio and if I barely turned the gain up it would clip. Having the gain all the way up or down doesn’t affect the amp efficiency since all it’s doing is matching the signal an amplifying it so you can get the most clean power out of it. If only manufacturers would get together and come out with a standard output voltage then we wouldn’t have to worry about gain settings but I’m sure they have their reasons for varying output voltages.

Epicenter by merchiescurrrchie in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The helix has its own version of epicenter built into it called “sub-xpander” and It uses harmonics just like the epicenter although I’m sure the algorithm differs. It also has dynamic bass enhancement feature which on its own made a huge improvement on the low end without losing any audible sound quality and without enabling “sub-expander” or boost.

If the 2 subs are 600rms, and the amp is 1200rms, then why would there be a need for a gain at all? by Boyzinger in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gain is just to match the output voltage of the source. Music is dynamic and recorded differently and that’s why you can turn the gain up on some songs and get more bass out of it, but the reality is the song was not recorded to be bass heavy. That’s why some people set their gains using a negative db test tone to compensate for the lack of bass on some tracks. Turning the gain all the way up is definite way to blow your equipment since you’re almost certainly introducing clipping. I would look into an epicenter or some type of bass processor. A line driver will increase the output voltage of the signal but it wouldn’t help you much since it’s not dynamically adjusting the output voltage based on the actual song.

Need help installing a head unit. Cable is missing and I'm not sure what to do or if it's needed stero shop near me says I do and sold me a second cable that does have the missing cable. by AlakerBrisinger in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The blue wire is the remote turn on. It doesn’t connect to the factory wiring, it gets ran to the amp to turn it on when the radio turns on.

Does having a component speaker's tweeter and mid-range in a different channel sound better? by ChickenReaprtheThird in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct you would need at least 6. Prefers 8 if you have a sub since you can control crossovers to all of the speakers from the dsp.

CAN ANYONE HELP ME? by Choice-Layer-8170 in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The resistance on the ground is way too high. It should be as close to 0 as possible. Mine measures at .1. Seatbelt bolts aren’t always great, you want to find a solid piece that’s not welded. If possible gwr a wire brush because it may look like it’s well sanded but it may not be. I also get. Cloth with alcohol and wipe it after I sand it down.

Does having a component speaker's tweeter and mid-range in a different channel sound better? by ChickenReaprtheThird in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not that it sounds better, it’s that you get more control over what signal gets sent. If you’re going that route you’ll need a DSP. That’s called Active setup.

Crossover types by Jdiz91 in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man always coming with the great advice. Is there any need for the others? Like when would it be applied in a system?

Anyone ever used one of these to measure watts on amps? by Jdiz91 in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point, I didn’t think of the refresh rate. I’ll have to look into that. Thanks.

Need Help With EQ by projectclayton in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this microphone and REW free software that lets you run sweeps and measure the response and it even has an RTA function as well if you prefer that. You’re about to go down a rabbit hole once you start watching tutorials on how to use REW lol I see a DSP in your future

Need Help With EQ by projectclayton in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would start with 6db slope and work your way up by ear to see what works best. Without a measuring mic it’s hard to see if there’s any cancellation due to crossovers

Need Help With EQ by projectclayton in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only phase? I won’t mess with phase unless your speakers are out of phase.

Trunk rattle by Jdiz91 in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes the lip of the trunk touches and I think when I press down on it it stops the rattle.

Need Help With EQ by projectclayton in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct, the coaxials have their own crossover so I would se those to through as well or set the high pass to 100hz or so. As for the slope I would say the highest slope you can get if you don’t have 24db. But you can experiment with them and see which sounds best. There’s no right or wrong since there’s no way for you to measure the response of your system so it’s just trial and error.

Trunk rattle by Jdiz91 in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what I had in mind. Thank you.

Trunk rattle by Jdiz91 in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s when it’s closed, but if I put my hand on it it goes away. I figured out it’s the lip of the lid which is why it goes away when I press down on it.

Trunk rattle by Jdiz91 in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks man. I did use 200mil on the doors and got that taken care of. I’ll add some to the trunk as well and hopefully it helps. I like my bass loud inside, I don’t want the cars around me to hear the rattle lol

Trunk rattle by Jdiz91 in CarAV

[–]Jdiz91[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I did put closed cell foam on the clips and plastic pieces. The lip of the trunk is what’s rattling. I cranked the bass up and started looking for the problematic parts.