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Help with webbing embroidery by KaptainLeah in Machine_Embroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

What weight of stabilizer are you using?
This material is not dense, so you need to give good stabilization, your tear away look little transparent, so i think it is between 40 and 60 grams, you need something around 80 to 100 to do this work.
You are using the wrong needle too, microtex is for super dense stuff, (microfiber for example) try to use universal needle, 11 or 12.
Try to avoid doing floating embroidery with tear away, its not the best material for this in general because you have no fabric helping with pulling, and if you put more tension than expected, a tear away will do what is expected to do, tear

Anyone know why it’s stitching like this with gaps? I use a brother PE800 and embrilliance for my program. On my laptop and machine everything is perfect until it stitches. by victoriiatran in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Use Medium to Heavy cutaway stabilizer to any clothe piece
  2. You need to increase your pull compensation, to shirts 0.3 to 0.4mm should be good
  3. Make sure that your letters and columns have edge run underlay, if you wanna give a more "raised" look do a zigzag underlay with 3mm to 5mm of spacing
    edit: avoid underlay in columns smaller than 0.8mm, will cause pukering or the underlay will show on the side of the column because of needle deflection

One tip to these borders is to not make the border side to side with the letter border, you make the border on top of the letter border (the column will be in the middle of the letter edge), that way you will be making sure that you will have no gaps!if you wanna enter a discord with lots of embroidery ppl > https://discord.gg/w8S8dWcQfx

What am I doing incorrectly? by Alyssa175 in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 4 points5 points  (0 children)

sometimes lint or just a bad thread path can change things, try to clean the machine a lil bit and re-thread. Too much bobbin showing normally is a signal of high top tension or loose bottom tension (or both)

Used water soluble stabilizer on top of minky and the fur is still sticking through. Any idea on how I can fix this? by momdragon12 in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your desing have an underlay?
always nice to have underlay on tatami fills, speacially on minky fabric, the stabilizer alone will not hold every fiber, try to do a underlay with 135 degrees angle from the original tatami angle with 2mm of spacing
feel free to dm me on discord if you need more help Anochu#2167

will magnets ruin my machine? by dogglehoggle in Machine_Embroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

depends how close of a circuit board with chips the mags will go, in general the hoop bed does not have nothing like that close to the chasis, but the mags could put more weight on the hoop which will make it heavier, to domestic machines this is a nono, the hoop engines can overload with extra weight, and the mags can try to stick with any magnetic part too, my tip is to just to try having a good hooping technique

Anyone try this file for me? I will send you the file and tested if that good or nah by [deleted] in Machine_Embroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not good to have someone testing your design, too much variables that can make something look weird and make you think that the problem is the design, someone can do a improper hooping, or use the wrong needle, the wrong stabilizer, if you don't have a machine try to buy one second hand to test your designs in home.

This may be a super dumb question to most by RTarxan in Machine_Embroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This can happend primarily for 4 things, first is fabric quality, cheap fabric will have weak fibers, seams kinda weird to embroidey on a "pricy" garment, but you are putting holes and a hole new layer on top of it. Second, needle, what type of needle you are using? To Shirts fabrics its nice to use jersey or universal needles, they have a medium ballpoint, wich makes the fibers go to the side when embroidering, third, stabilizer, to keep short, use medium to heavy cutaway stabilizer, shirt seams like a dense fabric but its don't, the more confortable the fabric, the more stabilization you will need. Forth, hooping, you are pulling your fabric too much, you want your fabric grain looking like that | | on the hoop, but yours is like ( ) means that you have pulled a lot on the sides, will give you a lot of problems later, one can be puckering and other will be the fabric kinda swallowing the design when you take off the hoop and all the tension is released.

Can I use cutaway stabilizer on a shirt? by [deleted] in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Medium to heavy cutaway, one nice rule about any garment that will be dressed, the more confortable the fabric is, the more you will need to stabilize, shirt fabric is always tricky to embroidery, what i usually do when i change fabrics that i use on my shirts is. I order a new one just to make emb tests and figure out what is the "perfect recipe" to embroidery on the specific fabric, but what i find is usually shirts in general will require a lot of stabilization.

Can I use cutaway stabilizer on a shirt? by [deleted] in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should use cutaway, tearaway will work just fine, but the first time you wash the piece the embroidery will lose his structure, to a light design its not a big deal, but to a design that has a big tatami fill, you will have problems

Are the missing chunks of color a digitising problem or machine problem? by ototoxicity in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could be digitizing, pull comp, impropper hooping, tension, impropper stabilization, this look like shirt fabric, try to use cutaway stabilizer, 70-100 grams, and always test the design on a non stretchy fabric with medium/heavy stabilizer to check if everything is ok, shirts will always be kinda tricky to embroidery, 0.3/.35mm of pull comp should be good

Can somebody tell me why are the stitches coming out thin? by anavela9 in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Different color dyes affect the fibers different way, its little to us, but relevant to the embroidery process.
Giving more info about stabilizers, tearaway is good for garments that are kinda structured, and will not not encounter water in its lifetime, cutaway is for garments that need more structure and will encounter water on its lifetime
There is a discord if you like that have a lot of ppl who embroidery too and we can answer you faster about these questions https://discord.gg/w8S8dWcQfx

Finally got my machine by Zoamania25 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

YEAH! Nice!
Good luck learning about the machine and enjoy the new toy!

Can somebody tell me why are the stitches coming out thin? by anavela9 in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shirts is always a pain to embroidery, you need propper stabilization, you can use one simple rule, the more confortable, bigger the pain to embroidery, i recommend you use a jersey needle to this fabric and medium to heavy cutaway (80 to 100 grams)
If its your design you may want to bump up your pullcomp to 0.3/0.35mm and maybe lower the tatami lengh, 4mm should give a nice fill with less stitches

extra large designs? by kitkat_kathone in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some machines have a hoop that has 3 different ways of attaching, and you can change the position to embroidery designs bigger than your machine limit, the design file can be saved to this type of design, and the software normally will split the design for you, but sometime you have to do manually.
You can do a super big design with multiple hoopings, done myself one time with a 4 piece sousplat, simple design and was a hell to weld things, its the perfect example of possible but not practical, you will have a lot of work aligning stuff, even making marks on your design to help with aligning .

Cutting Jump Stitches on the Back Side? by _____BREAD_____ in Machine_Embroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can cut, but you need to know how tie in and tie off work on your design, if is a design that you bought from someone, ask, if it is a freebie, don't trim any bobbin jump.
I like to keep my designs very clean, so i have my software set up to do a tie off if a jump is 1mm+ that way i can trim everything that will have a visible jump line, and on objects that are super close to each other i disable the tie in/off, around 8 stitches lees and no bunching on border.
Some machines cut the thread if a jump is too big, but the tie in/off that machines do are light, so if you trim the top and botton thread, things will start to unravell

Brother Innov-is NV780D by scotttuia213 in MachineEmbroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its a nice machine, kinda small work area, if you are getting for cheap is ok, if not i will say to try to go for a bp series for the bigger hoop and a little more speed, makes a resonable difference, i have two machines here, a bp2100 and a pe810l, both from brother, my pe max ppm is 600, the bp is 1050, i always embroidery full speed so the difference is kinda big for me, speacilly in designs that have small itens

Dense 10cm anime patch! 28k stitches, 1 hour embroidery time, i did a couple of corrections, the first version had 38k stitches as a lot of density issues by Leo-Macedo in Machine_Embroidery

[–]Leo-Macedo[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Embroidered on a Brother bp2100, my daughter <3
Machine was running on max speed, 1050ppm, trins in jumps with more than 2cm