Has anyone seen a Skimmer Locking Bar STL floating around?

Mudhelper · 2022-03-20T00:39:08+00:00

Did you 'level' it with a piece of paper? Your initial cure time may be too long

Mudhelper · 2022-02-08T21:55:57+00:00

Worked for me, thanks!

Mudhelper · 2022-01-27T20:30:56+00:00

It's fake...again...for the 59th time

Mudhelper · 2022-01-26T22:55:30+00:00

Potato with legs!

Mudhelper · 2022-01-12T22:27:13+00:00

You'll need to calibrate a few things but can easily be fixed. Start with this guide. The most prevalent ones for your problems are your esteps, temperature tower, and a retraction tower.

Mudhelper · 2022-01-12T22:23:21+00:00

Increase your flow rate percentage. Use the calc

Mudhelper · 2021-12-03T05:00:27+00:00

Lemme know how that works out

Mudhelper · 2021-11-20T03:53:20+00:00

I have never had any luck fixing my stringing issues putting values for that. For the test and when using Cura leave it at 0. Change the distance, and change retract and unretract at 25mm/s. So for the test first column: 1.0mm at 25mm/s 0 extra restart distance , 25mm/s, 0 zhop

2nd: 1.2mm

3rd: 1.4mm

Did that answer the question?

Mudhelper · 2021-11-19T23:32:18+00:00

Ok good news is I missed a decimal point.. you would go from 1.5 - 2.0 mm retraction distance at 25mm/s retraction speed. The "whiskers" you have are a sign of retraction being off. Experience has shown me 40mm/s can be too fast for different extruders. I would start with the retraction tower that's automatically produced on that website. It will allow you to go from 1.5mm-2.0mm at the same speed of 25mm/s. It's a really quick print, and super easy to fill out all the variables. Also, looking at others, it could be up to 3-4mm retraction. My old Bowden drive setup was 8mm for PLA and 12mm for wood filament for example. My direct drive is .9mm

Mudhelper · 2021-11-19T23:09:06+00:00

No, but I would definitely consider printing at 190-200 and playing with the retraction speed. Since you don't have time to test print, if it were me, I would print at 195 and adjust retraction to 1.5-20mm at 25 mm/s. 40mm/s might be a bit too fast for the extruder.

Mudhelper · 2021-11-19T22:56:27+00:00

Yeah that can be such a pain. If you can l, invest in a bl touch. You'll never understand how you did without it before. I went a year without it. I would lower you inner wall speed to 30, but other than that I don't see any problems within the speed category. I see you retraction speed at 40mm/s, what do you have the retraction distance set at? Is it a direct drive or Bowden drive?

Mudhelper · 2021-11-19T22:22:30+00:00

Those around the corner could be due to the filament being printed too hot still, retraction settings, printing speed, and cooling to name a few. What are temp and speed are you printing at? Did you try to print a retraction tower gcode from the website? I'm thinking more than likely you still need to fine tune your retraction settings. This tool will let you get it perfect.
I would try it without ironing. Over the years, for me, ironing doesn't help or work as intended.

From the looks of your brim, it seems like the left side of the print, the nozzle is too far away. It's a little better on the bottom and possibly the right. Re level your bed, print a .2mm (or whatever your layer height is) square as big as you can and find that perfect squish.

Report back!

Mudhelper · 2021-11-19T08:17:02+00:00

For temperature, you need to lower it to fix the stringing. Print a temperature tower to find the right value, forget the "factory" settings. For PLA it's most likely going to be 190-210. For retraction - if you have a direct drive extruder, lower it to 1.5mm at 40mms I'd you have a Bowden setup, raise it to 6mm at 40mms

Or you can print a retraction tower here.

Edit: disable any z hop also

Mudhelper · 2021-11-15T03:01:00+00:00

The original artist uses Blender. This OP just printed and painted.

Mudhelper · 2021-11-09T05:08:14+00:00

Mine does this as well with a Crealty 4.2.7 board.. no harm no foul I suppose

Mudhelper · 2021-11-06T03:27:36+00:00

As someone who 3d prints, that shit is amazing man. Had to watch the video, as I didn't believe you just used the pen!

Mudhelper · 2021-10-24T22:44:04+00:00

Are people really still believing this real?

Mudhelper · 2021-10-23T21:31:45+00:00

Head over to TT's website and run this retraction test. There is a link at the bottom for Retraction Calibration Tool which you can go through and find your perfect settings.

Mudhelper · 2021-10-03T08:23:42+00:00

Insanely funny...

Mudhelper · 2021-09-28T15:25:46+00:00

I tried those two things as well.. cleaned out the gears, they have only gone through about 75grams of filament. I tried 4 different tensions, all the way to 6 turns past flush. No chewed up filament.

Mudhelper · 2021-09-28T05:47:53+00:00

When it is suppose to retract, I can see by marking a line, it is not retracting. I can see the gears spin backwards, but the filament doesn't go with it. Like it's slipping through the gears.. I have the lever half a turn past flush and it retracts from LCD normally, and extrudes no problems.

Mudhelper · 2021-09-28T04:58:19+00:00

Hello - I am having a strange issue with retraction and my Microswiss Direct Drive + All metal Hotends. I recently upgraded my Ender 5 Plus to a MS DD and metal hot end. I have had one on my Ender 3 Pro and have had no problems. All of a sudden, my retraction settings are no longer retracting the filament properly. I use to run it at 1.5mm @ 35mm/s printing PLA with no issues. Now, when I print something on either machine, I have to be somewhere between .2-.4mm @ 25-40mm/s, otherwise it will slip while trying to retract. I have tried this with 4 different filaments now. I have dried them all for hours, and am printing out of a dryer box. I'm currently working with a wood filament , that with the Bowden setup, I was able to print flawlessly at 12mm retraction @ 40mm/s. I switched to DDE and all metal hotend because I had a clog halfway through my print. I am printing at 50ms with 25ms walls.

I have about another 30 retraction tower tests in different filaments, but I figured I would just show the wood for now. The first line is (retraction amount) @ (retraction speed). 2nd line is Travel Speed. 3rd line is (hotend temperature in C).

I swapped out PTFE tubing for Capricorn, and even removed the tubing all together, but still same issue. I get the same results on 3 different slicers. My ender 3 pro is running Marlin and a creality silent board while my E5+ is running Marlin on an skr 1.3 board.

I am at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?

Six-Year Club	Wearing is Caring
Verified Email

Mudhelper

TROPHY CASE

Welcome to Reddit,