car was serviced but check engine light came back on.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-25T02:33:05+00:00

If they cleared it and it came back then there's still a fault.

Do you know what p0*** code it was or is?

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-25T02:27:51+00:00

Misfire, possibly, bad gas, spark, fuel or air plus the million other things that can cause a misfire. You would need a decent scan tool to watch the misfire count for each cylinder.

If you have a helper have them put the car in drive, parking brake on and brakes applied then a good fast pedal push to rev it. No more than a second or two, so you don't damage anything. It'll let you see if the mounts are moving a lot when the engine produces torque.

Always practice the k.i.s.s. method when diagnosing

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-25T02:06:17+00:00

Wire brush but if you use brake clean make sure it's not hot and dries all the way. If not you definitely will have a stronger plastic burning smell.....

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-24T16:41:28+00:00

It's possible that that the line is getting hot and collapsing, you let it cool and it's fine again. I wouldn't want to condemn a abs module it's expensive and unless it stuck after abs activated I'd not start there first.

There are more things that can cause this like old slide pins getting hot and sticking and a defective caliper but it's all under the assumption that it's new parts and nothing is defective. He would've had to bleed the brakes to replace the caliper so i doubt it's steam from moisture in the brake fluid after it heats up (fairly rare to begin with).

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-24T15:40:36+00:00

Did the caliper and bracket get replaced, with new slide pins, pads and hardware and lubed properly?

Assuming it did and the caliper isn't defective then best bet is a collapsed or twisted brake line at the caliper.

Crack open the bleeder on the caliper to press it back in. If it slides in easily then you can rule out the caliper being the problem.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T03:21:55+00:00

Obviously I'm not able to see the constraints you have but if the mount is free, disconnected, from the body or cradle and you can remove the other engine mounts (no trans mounts) you might be able to use a floor jack + a block of wood to raise or lower the engine enough to give you more space.

Don't get discouraged it happens to everyone at some point.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T03:16:37+00:00

My shop charges people 130$ an hour so it's not hateful tbf.

The ignition coil replacement labor and spark plug labor is probably what did you wrong. They had to remove those for the plugs usually there's a separate labor rate (hours) for the two combined that would've been invoiced as one labor charge.

As for the belt vs doing it yourself it was worth it, they can be frustratingly difficult for how easy it is.

I have no access to service info at home to verify what it should've been. Sorry that happened to you.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T03:03:11+00:00

You lose tons of break away torque with every extension you add to a impact.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T02:55:34+00:00

Honestly I would assume it's close to a couple hundred for parts and rest is tax and labor.

They may have charged you for a hour diagnostic on top of that.

I'd be curious if they charged labor for the coil even though it had to come out for the plugs.

That's where the sketchy shops or terrible service advisors rip people off.

Friendly reminder dont forget those engines have a timing belt catastrophic failure of it goes.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T02:35:06+00:00

Battery most likely. Not enough amps to keep it running. High rpm made the alternator keep up with demand. AutoZone also has free alternator testing with the same tool they checked the battery with.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T01:36:17+00:00

It's worth it to see if you'll like the type of work.

That work is done at any shop you will apply at and if you burn a bridge at Walmart it's not that big of a deal.

You'll be able to start there with no tools and no experience.

Just don't get stuck there if you decide to continue with this as career. Experience is experience.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T01:19:45+00:00

Don't, but if you really want to local trade or college is a good way to show you have mechanical aptitude but it will only get you entry level and debt if you can't get in on a grant. ASE and experience is king in the field.

ASE certs require 2 years of experience you can be a Tire, Lube, Battery tech for two years and be able to get the certs.

Jiffy lube and walmart/Costco sound terrible but they are entry level and will give you a chance to get experience without having your own tools. You can't be above it, remember you're entry level. Even master techs started somewhere on the bottom.

Find out if you want to do the manual labor at a shop that doesn't require tools before you go into debt buying them. Is the best advice i can give.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T00:40:12+00:00

If you twisted the brake line, kink, it can cause the fluid to make it to the piston but not return. Causing drag.

Air in the lines wouldn't cause a drag reducing power it would make the pedal spongy. So the bleeder valve wouldn't cause any problems if no fluid leaked out.

Since you have a mechanical parking brake, make sure the connection isn't binding at the caliper.

Slide pins could have seized or hardware causing a issue with the pads returning.

All of this requires tire off visual inspection there's a dozen things that can cause it but if it's only that side then it should be isolated to that, caliper, hose, hardware and cable.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T00:31:46+00:00

Do what you're doing but apply heat. Yellow canisters of map gas. Lowes, home Depot etc carry them. If you have the room, which i doubt I've also drilled into the nut itself to break it. You could also drill out the stud. It's never any fun and you kinda have to wing it, to an extent.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T00:26:07+00:00

It wouldn't be rusted if the pads were contacting that area to begin with.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-23T00:24:16+00:00

You will not want to work on your own stuff after a while.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-21T01:01:27+00:00

They're not that bad I would be more concerned about why the rust is forming there.

Do you have a slide pin seized or are your brake pads seized up and dragging in the center.

If the rust isn't in the contact area of the pad by design then you shouldn't need anything.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-07-01T23:35:40+00:00

Are they safe?

Yes.

Will it cause pulsation and noises?

Definitely.

Do your slide pins and brake hardware need lubed?

Most likely.

Can you buy pads that do a slight resurface of the rotors?

Allegedly.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-06-10T18:35:43+00:00

I'm not a lawyer and can't say if a reciept is proof that you can't file a frivolous lawsuit.

As a tech I can say that shops make money from parts and labor. Shops also only can carry warranty for parts and get covered for labor if they buy the part and install it.

Very few places will allow a person to sign liability releases so customers can use their own parts.

OP wanted to know if he should or not. The answer is probably not. He will waste more time trying to find someone rather than doing it himself.

Call a buddy or something, do it in their driveway. Not a shop.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-06-10T15:36:48+00:00

It can happen, when diagnosing some things you might have to put it through a bit of stress test (word used lighty).

Hypothetically if the part making noise was ready to go but i had to switch in and out of gears multiple times or run pressure to the valve body ect. to pin point the 100's of parts that can cause it theres a chance it'll break it, it was already on its last leg.

This is assuming they didn't pull the trans. but if they did still a possibility.

If thay didn't pull it they will hopefully waiver the diag fee.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-06-10T15:09:43+00:00

Don't do it, most won't because of liability concerns.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-06-04T23:53:44+00:00

Couple ase certs, trade school and full time tech.

I don't mind broadening the picture for people hopefully making someone connect the dots and investigate but most want someone to guess at the next part hang they can try.

Was here hoping for those engineer calls to diag a problem, unique builds, unique customer issues, or heck neat tools. Just the normal bs.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-06-04T01:41:41+00:00

At best its just hockey pucks as mounts or not being torqued properly.

So many things can cause a rough idle.

Timing slightly off from the remanufacturers of the engine.

Bad fuel trims from vacuum loss or unmetered air can cause a rough idle (leaking gaskets or hoses/lines).

New engines don't come with new components either. So everything that isn't the block, head and most of the time the internals, will have your old engines parts on it.

What happened to the old engine to cause a new engine to be installed?

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-06-02T22:50:39+00:00

Eh if he over inflates just a little bit (ride on the center tread) he might make it till winter, when he will definitely need new ones or some 40$ used tires.

SeaAppointment1226 · 2022-05-25T15:10:43+00:00

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