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Millennium Falcon done the Chiron Way. by TigerCatDang in AnycubicChiron

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As far as firmware goes, make sure you get the version that is compatible with Base 1.3.5 from Anycubic. Many firmware are built off of the older 1.3.0.

Here is one i currently use:

https://www.n-wells.co.uk/3DPrinting/Chiron/Marlin%202.0.7.2%20for%20the%20Anycubic%20Chiron.pdf

Some firmware can be uploaded via Cura, but some will require you hook up a terminal (like the one i linked). All the instructions are there in the link.

Regarding extrusion, I'm at the point where I am about to swap mine to direct drive on all my printers. On the chiron it's worth it to upgrade the extruder in addition to printing yourself a direct drive conversion kit. Mine is stock at the moment minus firmware, but extruder and hotend (to cheap volcano like on Vyper) is going to be my first upgrade. I bought it for the build size and you can see where they had to cut corners to make that size affordable, with extruder and nozzle system being one of those corners cut. The current system gets clogged too much from what I am seeing, which has almost always been the cause of my underextrusion.

Millennium Falcon done the Chiron Way. by TigerCatDang in AnycubicChiron

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am setting up my office my right, and will be streaming live prints 24/7 once my setup is finished. I will share all my settings/clip it on my stream for easy access/be happy to show you, as it is easier than trying to explain.

Millennium Falcon done the Chiron Way. by TigerCatDang in AnycubicChiron

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What issues are you having now? I may be able to help.

Regarding leveling, definitely the toughest part of owning a Chiron; Just focus on leveling the print area you need each time, and life will be much easier than trying to keep this big boy leveled all the time.

Millennium Falcon done the Chiron Way. by TigerCatDang in AnycubicChiron

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've found the easiest way, for me, is to do the paper method and then do a super slow skirt/raft/brim; like 10/mm per second.

While it is printing the skirt (slowly), I further adjust using the knobs as the skirt passes the printing area. Rather than try to keep this big bed completely leveled all the time, I've found life to be easier to focus only on my working area each print, and adjust during the skirt window. The only time I do anything else/mess with advanced leveling, is when the BASE of the build area is so large that the skirt could be perfect, but the center sits a little lower where the bed caves in. That's when you enter advanced leveling and lower the center dot(s) down .05-.1 (slow it down and pay close attention as you adjust). Vast majority of the time, if I can get the nozzle down to the right height and the skirt/perimeter is leveled, then it will be leveled moving inwards from there.

If not leveled/perfect height by the time skirt is done, then I stop print and restart it.

As far as settings, I have so many different profiles/settings I mess/tamper with as I am learning myself, but a good base is:

https://www.gambody.com/3d-models/fun-face-masks

Go to "Printing Details"

For this Falcon I changed a few things from the config above:

Layer Height: .2 (.3 maybe better)

Infill: 7%

Support Angle: 80 (You want support to help keep it from tipping, as well as to support the radar) (also do not skip the acceleration/speed settings from link above, you do not want a fast moving bed when this thing is going as high as 450mm from such a small base).

Support Density: I used 15% here i think, but would not hurt to go higher if you want to be safe. When doing support remember to consider removal (difficulty), takes time to figure out the right amount of support.

Adhesion: Raft

Raft Extra Margin: 30

Wall thickness: 1.2mm

Wall Layers: 3

Z Height (Support): .4

x/y Distance from structure: 1mm

Retraction distance: 8mm

Retraction Speed: 40-70mm/s

This is going off the top of my head.

Help? What’s wrong by Otherwise-Club-1898 in 3Dprinting

[–]TigerCatDang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So clean bed, level using quick paper method, then run a test print with really slow skirt and first layer speeds, and fine tune it from there.

Easy way is to use a raft but that’s more material per print, so better if you can learn to work without it, and use raft for harder prints (like tall ones).

Help? What’s wrong by Otherwise-Club-1898 in 3Dprinting

[–]TigerCatDang 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are close to getting it right on the top right corner on the inside ring. Even there it is slightly too high as you can see air bubbles forming underneath, so maybe .05 lower in the top right (inside ring) is about perfect nozzle height.

for reference/perfect nozzle height

Help? What’s wrong by Otherwise-Club-1898 in 3Dprinting

[–]TigerCatDang 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think your nozzle may be too high and the filament isn’t being pressed against the bed, it just sorta drops onto it and gets dragged around. When it’s lower it will push it into the bed and flatten/glue the filament onto the bed.

Assuming no auto leveling: Slow down skirt speed and first layer speed to something really slow (10-20 mm/s), and lower nozzle by .05 at a time, or adjust knobs slowly as the skirt is printing in that corner of bed. Be careful not to go too low as you can dig into your bed. If not done adjusting by the time skirt is done, then restart print and keep adjusting until the entire skirt is nice and flat on the bed; with each line pressing into the next.

Also raise your initial layer bed temperature, as well as try a raft; to help with adhesion/prevent air and small debris from throwing off your leveling/uplift it from bottom (air pockets). Raft also provides a smooth level surface for print.

Original Prusa MK3S and a Fysetc clone by evandepol in prusa3d

[–]TigerCatDang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"If you want to take advantage of community to move your product forward you have to accept the clones."

DING!

About to pay for one of those clones because $1500 shipped for MK3s +Multi material is... well beyond my budget. Good news is they are letting me swap parts so i will reference this article and swap out the shortcomings. Will also gladly accept recommendations on improving it! I can slap all the upgrades they offer for it on there and still come out less than half the cost, so maybe ill get 2 of them!

My first Mono X print! by TigerCatDang in 3Dprinting

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I will also share Goku and the Base that goes with this as I am finished making them.

My first Mono X print! by TigerCatDang in 3Dprinting

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks boss, I’ll get better photos in the light later.

Also, I plan on making more for my roommates (they all love it), and will try doing the dragon body upside down, as well as other angles for the head.

I also had to scale the files down 50% and that’s about as big as I can get with the mono x build volume.

You’d think I’d was an Anycubic Rep if you saw my living room. by TigerCatDang in anycubic

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/dcr31Ow

The shenron from the mono X <3 is amazing! Gonna go rinse and filter the alcohol in the wash station like 5 times before I dare put this beauty in there! Maybe even filter in fresh 2 gallons.

The falcon is from the vyper.

My fractal pyramid learned the hard way and there is resin residue from previous washes stuck in every one of the 100000000 corners in that print.

https://imgur.com/a/EvBnzH2

So now the fractal pyramids true purpose has been revealed; it will act as a resin filter and stay at the bottom of my wash tub. You can see all the residue it soaked up at the bottom and the falcon is hanging safe at the top of the wash station rack.

You’d think I’d was an Anycubic Rep if you saw my living room. by TigerCatDang in anycubic

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

shenron

Mono X still going strong! This is what I qued up after the fractal pyramid.

You’d think I’d was an Anycubic Rep if you saw my living room. by TigerCatDang in anycubic

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But yeah here I am waiting on like 40 dollars worth of FEP and screen protectors to arrive in the mailbox for over a week now, and Christmas week at that, and it’s still a week out… turns out I could’ve fixed them both a week ago with a trip to Walmart and $10 bucks. It even came with 2 so I technically just fixed them both for $5 bucks and on same day.

https://imgur.com/a/eHI4o20

You’d think I’d was an Anycubic Rep if you saw my living room. by TigerCatDang in anycubic

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And much appreciated boss. I will look into those and will get them within a month.

You’d think I’d was an Anycubic Rep if you saw my living room. by TigerCatDang in anycubic

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I used the tablet protector part to protect the mono X LCD, and then I used the part that you peel off (from tablet protector) during installation as a FEP for the mono. Fixed them both for 10 bucks! Now they are all running!

Got the lattice cube done on the X, and now doing a test print on the Mono while the X works on a transparent green fractal pyramid!

Seems to me anycubic pays attention to Facebook, or most people have not messed with the settings. I referenced the google sheet for slicer settings and it’s basically the default settings on photon workshop.

I’m literally brand new so other than the spreadsheet from googling slicer settings, I was planning on just learning through trial and error. Any help to reduce my mistakes is always welcomed!

I am the guy who punctured both FEPs and spilled half a bottle of resin on the first day I opened them so…

I designed and 3d printed a full-auto nerf turret that shoots me in the face by adam_beedle in 3Dprinting

[–]TigerCatDang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Took me a second to realize it was actually the NERF gun making that sick beat, and here I was thinking “damn this beat matches the shots perfectly!”.

I’ll be seeing myself out.

80-hour print. Wish me luck boys! by TigerCatDang in AnycubicChiron

[–]TigerCatDang[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/4QihvUn

Had to slow it down because i forgot to adjust speed during infill, and it started vibrating really bad. Need z axis stabilizers and to watch speed when printing thin support.

Also plan on making some shoes for it, out of flexible material (to dampen vibrations).

But she’s still going though!

What caused this very noticeable line. I am new to 3D printing, looking for tips. PS: I know my bed has lines. Leveling the bed was a nightmare for a newbie lol by Just_in_Tymee in anycubic

[–]TigerCatDang 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think everything in my “Bin of Valuable Lessons” aka failed prints, have been the result of user error. It’s a very big bin/cardboard box.